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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, the other day my car started acting weird. initially i was only aware that the ac climate control lights were out, as well as the shift selector. that led to the realization that my dimmer switch was completely nonfunctional. I checked the continuity on it and that checked out okay, but its not receiving any power. I was searching around for help and for a variety of cars, the parking lights and license plate lights didnt work either as well. Sure enough, when I checked my car, none of those were functioning either. So that means its an entire circuit that no longer is working, and for the icing on the cake....none of the fuses have blown. can someone help me please?
:pileon:
 
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under your dash ,drivers side, there is a fuse that they push in when they deliver your car at the dealer,,it could have come loose and needs to be pushed back in,I belive it is in the little fuse panel by the steering wheel
 

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Discussion Starter #3
under your dash ,drivers side, there is a fuse that they push in when they deliver your car at the dealer,,it could have come loose and needs to be pushed back in,I belive it is in the little fuse panel by the steering wheel
oh dope thanks. is this in the interior fuse box, or does this have another special location? Because I checked both interior and exterior fuse boxes and couldn't find anything wrong.
 
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I know after I piched up my car my blinkers lights on the dash and some of the other lights stopped working,,,these cars have a shipping mode,,and there is a fuse that needs to be pushed in,,,mine came loose and my lights were messed up,,,I made an apointment at the dealer then came on here and someone else was talking about it,,pushed it in til it clicked and it was fixed,,,I think it was a blue color and is in the fuse panel to the left of the steering wheel,,,good luck,,,hope this fixes it
 

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I know after I piched up my car my blinkers lights on the dash and some of the other lights stopped working,,,these cars have a shipping mode,,and there is a fuse that needs to be pushed in,,,mine came loose and my lights were messed up,,,I made an apointment at the dealer then came on here and someone else was talking about it,,pushed it in til it clicked and it was fixed,,,I think it was a blue color and is in the fuse panel to the left of the steering wheel,,,good luck,,,hope this fixes it
Here is the link crownabove was mentioning

http://www.nissanversaforums.com/2012-nissan-versa-discussion/3371-2012-sedan-blinkers-dash-lights-not-working.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so I pressed firmly upon everything in that fuse panel, including the two large blue blocks. from the link, I could not find any black bar that i could press. still doesnt work. :/
 

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so I pressed firmly upon everything in that fuse panel, including the two large blue blocks. from the link, I could not find any black bar that i could press. still doesnt work. :/
I am not an electrical guy... but I will check to see if there is a common point that is related to all the lights that are not working.

See age PG30 on page 4 Ground Distribution.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM//versa/2011/PG.pdf

Over view

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM//versa/2011/PG.pdf

Did you do a continuity check on the fuse
 

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I am not an electrical guy... but I will check to see if there is a common point that is related to all the lights that are not working.

See age PG30 on page 4 Ground Distribution.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM//versa/2011/PG.pdf

Over view

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM//versa/2011/PG.pdf

Did you do a continuity check on the fuse
updated 5/8 9:30 pm
Check page 13 of the above link to view what fuse location is attached too. and check fuse position 3 ( 10 amp meter) and position 6 engine control 10 amp
 

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Discussion Starter #9
updated 5/8 9:30 pm
Check page 13 of the above link to view what fuse location is attached too. and check fuse position 3 ( 10 amp meter) and position 6 engine control 10 amp
i checked both of those, and also both of the elec parts fuses (10 amp). all show continuity, so its not those. i dont understand how power can get fried but the fuse not? the only other thing that comes to mind is a fried wire, but those are supposed to handle above their corresponding fuse max ratings. is there anything else i can check? i got a few weeks till im back home, at which i will take the car to get fixed if i havent isolated the issue by then.
 

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Plus if a wire shorted out the fuse probably would have popped. Could there be another fuse somewhere in there? Or perhaps a connector has come loose?
 

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Plus if a wire shorted out the fuse probably would have popped. Could there be another fuse somewhere in there? Or perhaps a connector has come loose?
I agree, if you had a short in the wire, the fuse would blow. I have been unable to trace the wire harness from the license plate to the IPDM E/R (INTELLIGENT POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE ENGINE ROOM in the wiring diagram.

I would check the fuses for continuity in the IPDM with a test light and not remove them from the IPDM unit. You are right next to the battery so a test light would be easy to check the continuity of the fuses.
Keep us posted
 

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I agree, if you had a short in the wire, the fuse would blow. I have been unable to trace the wire harness from the license plate to the IPDM E/R (INTELLIGENT POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE ENGINE ROOM in the wiring diagram.

I would check the fuses for continuity in the IPDM with a test light and not remove them from the IPDM unit. You are right next to the battery so a test light would be easy to check the continuity of the fuses.
Keep us posted
And good luck! Electrical problems can be a PITA
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
well ive checked all the connections i can see and have pressed firmly upon them, so iono what could be causing it. and yeah, thats what i figured, but this is just all bizarre. I checked behind the headunit as well and couldn't find any wires that could be causing a short.

when its daylight out ill check continuity on the fuses. ill just find a led i have laying around and stab one side in the top im assuming? thanks for checking!!
 

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well ive checked all the connections i can see and have pressed firmly upon them, so iono what could be causing it. and yeah, thats what i figured, but this is just all bizarre. I checked behind the headunit as well and couldn't find any wires that could be causing a short.

when its daylight out ill check continuity on the fuses. ill just find a led i have laying around and stab one side in the top im assuming? thanks for checking!!
Here is an explanation on how to check fuses without removal Each fuse has two access points on top of the fuse. See links below

How to Check a Car Fuse Test - 2CarPros

Typical fuse tester
Electric Circuit Tester - Power On- Cal-Van Tools-Tools-Electricians Tools & Lighting-Test & Measuring Tools

There are two ways to check fuses the first is the good old fashion way of removing each fuse and visually inspecting each fuse. It's time consuming but effective. And the easy way, but you need a "test light" before you can begin. Turn the key to the "on" position (do not start), ground your test light lead to a good ground source, like a metal brace under the dash, seat mount bolt or under hood brace. Then lightly touch the service port at the top of the fuse on both sides. If the test light illuminates on both sides of the fuse, the fuse is ok and working properly. If the fuse lights the test light on one side it is blown and needs to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
thank you for that amazing breakdown of the process. i just checked all the fuses both interior and the few i have on the exterior...all of them have continuity. so my problem is still somewhere in between the fuses and the dimmer switch. probably even before the dimmer since the parking lights and license plate lights dont work either.

....bcm??

update: it appears my taillights are on the same circuit, which i deduced from the service manual coming from the ipdm and then realized tonight.
 

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thank you for that amazing breakdown of the process. i just checked all the fuses both interior and the few i have on the exterior...all of them have continuity. so my problem is still somewhere in between the fuses and the dimmer switch. probably even before the dimmer since the parking lights and license plate lights dont work either.

....bcm??

update: it appears my taillights are on the same circuit, which i deduced from the service manual coming from the ipdm and then realized tonight.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM//versa/2011/PG.pdf
I pulled a few fuses out from the fuse block next to the drivers panel and non of them were attached to the running lights. Also pulled the J2 relay on the right side of that fuse block and it did not do anything to the running lights or interior lights.

Well, at this point, the good news is that you don't have a short, or the fuses would be burned. You might want to read over page 20 and 22 to read about the IPDM self test via the door switch. I have not tried that, but it seems that the IPDM circuit relay is not engaging. Problem is that the relays can not be replaced from the information posted on the IPDM section.

Might want to check page 36 and see if the ground B19 is secure.

It might be the stalk (switch) on the steering column I checked my hatchback at the running lights, license plate light, interior lights behind the AC/shifter/heater are all connected.

What are your thoughts... anyone else have seen this problem????
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm attempting to run an auto active test to see if I can isolate it to the bcm or to something in between there and the ipdm. Either way it seems i will have to take it to the dealer or something for it to be taken care of right? Hopefully i got warranty or something still.

where behind the ac climate controls are the other wire connectors? which one are those? I can test voltage there.
 

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I'm attempting to run an auto active test to see if I can isolate it to the bcm or to something in between there and the ipdm. Either way it seems i will have to take it to the dealer or something for it to be taken care of right? Hopefully i got warranty or something still.

where behind the ac climate controls are the other wire connectors? which one are those? I can test voltage there.
I ran the auto active test. The door switch is on the body column on the left passenger door. It cycled through 3 times with the running lights as part of the cycle. If your running lights come on during the cycle, then I would point to the stalk switch.

I am just guessing that the active test resets the standard relay parameters.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I ran the auto active test. The door switch is on the body column on the left passenger door. It cycled through 3 times with the running lights as part of the cycle. If your running lights come on during the cycle, then I would point to the stalk switch.

I am just guessing that the active test resets the standard relay parameters.
i just ran the test. none of the lights on the parking/tail/license/dash/climate circuits lit up. so it appears its either a relay in ipdm or a harness :/
 

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i just ran the test. none of the lights on the parking/tail/license/dash/climate circuits lit up. so it appears its either a relay in ipdm or a harness :/
Ok, I think I found the problem. If it was a relay in the IPDM box I wanted to check it. The relays are not removable according to the data sheet. So, I clipped out the IPDM and turned the ignition key to "ON", you could just use the "ACC" but I used the "ON" position and toggled the light stalk between off/running lights/headlights. Kept the door open and had my hand on the IPDM and and light switch as I wanted to feel the relay opening and closing. Click for the running lights and click for the headlights. Relay was working with running lights and the climate lights. Then I pulled out the 10A F8 POS fuse and the rely still worked but the running lights and climate lights did not. BINGO Replace the F8 POS fuse with a new one and I'm betting the problem is resolved.
 
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