Dura Lube Severe Catalytic & Exhaust Treatment
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Well I bought the Dura Lube…..and I have to say so far so good. I added the boottle to my fuel tank, topped off the fuel and then drove it for over 30 miles. I parked the car, turned it off, connected my diagnostic tool and ran the codes. The permanent 420 code is gone, the check engine light is off and there are no codes. Also, she is running smoother. Time will tell though and hopefully the Dura Lube gives me some time to save $ for a new cat.
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Oh I know the problem will be back. My goal is to clean the system up some and keep it running smoother-ish while I save the $$$ for the new cat.
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I know it is the cat converter, I ran a diagnostic test and so did a local mechanic. I’m just trying to clean up what I can until I have the cash for the repairs. The car runs as it always has, pretty good for 157,000 + miles. No rotten egg smell no major loss of power.
Just my opinion, here...
At some point, it becomes cost prohibitive to pay for hours and hours of diagnostic work from a professional mechanic on an older vehicle with a lot of miles on it.
I had one (older) GM car that would eat through catalytic converters every 3-4 years. I took it to my mechanic (once) and he couldn't find the problem, but he still charged me for his diagnostic time. It was an old car and I just wanted to get more years and more miles out of it. The engine, clutch and transmission were solid and dependable... I just couldn't beat that P0420 code.
So when my Emissions inspection was due (and if my CEL light was on), I would buy a $100-$110 cat off of ebay, install it, clear the code, run the car through a drive cycle, and go to the inspection station. The car would pass and I could renew my tags. For the record, I did try an expensive OEM catalytic converter and the car ate through it at the same rate as the cheaper ebay one.
My thought process was the P0420 situation had a sunk cost of $25-$35 per year. This option was cheaper than paying for hours and hours of diagnostic work from the mechanic, only to hear he couldn't find the problem or let him fire the "parts cannon" at the car and "see" if that fixes it.
For me, it took me less than an hour to unbolt the old cat and bolt on the new one.
Again, this just my opinion... At the end of the day, you have to weigh your decisions based upon your needs and personal budget.
At some point, it becomes cost prohibitive to pay for hours and hours of diagnostic work from a professional mechanic on an older vehicle with a lot of miles on it.
I had one (older) GM car that would eat through catalytic converters every 3-4 years. I took it to my mechanic (once) and he couldn't find the problem, but he still charged me for his diagnostic time. It was an old car and I just wanted to get more years and more miles out of it. The engine, clutch and transmission were solid and dependable... I just couldn't beat that P0420 code.
So when my Emissions inspection was due (and if my CEL light was on), I would buy a $100-$110 cat off of ebay, install it, clear the code, run the car through a drive cycle, and go to the inspection station. The car would pass and I could renew my tags. For the record, I did try an expensive OEM catalytic converter and the car ate through it at the same rate as the cheaper ebay one.
My thought process was the P0420 situation had a sunk cost of $25-$35 per year. This option was cheaper than paying for hours and hours of diagnostic work from the mechanic, only to hear he couldn't find the problem or let him fire the "parts cannon" at the car and "see" if that fixes it.
For me, it took me less than an hour to unbolt the old cat and bolt on the new one.
Again, this just my opinion... At the end of the day, you have to weigh your decisions based upon your needs and personal budget.
Thr convertor should last the life of the vehicle, so something was definitely cause the failures. I'd definitely find a different mechanic too. A good diagnostic tech worth paying. Most issues can be figured out in an hour or two if the customers don't hide information.
In your case, the cheap convertor worked out, be it for long term, no way. They're cheaper because they use less precious metals, and that's what is needed for the catalyst process. It sucks, because it's one of the most expensive parts on the car.
In your case, the cheap convertor worked out, be it for long term, no way. They're cheaper because they use less precious metals, and that's what is needed for the catalyst process. It sucks, because it's one of the most expensive parts on the car.
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Thank you Tutti and Rodent,
im gonna look into replacing the cat myself. If it seems easy enough I will give it a go. I will change some of the less expensive parts in the system as well. My question is, why would it pull the po420 code and say the cat if it isn’t the cat?
like Rodent I am try to get as many years out of my car as I can.
By the way, day 4 after using Dura Lube and the CEL came on again. not even at half a tank of gas. Cleared the code and gonna wait and see what happens after I finish the entire tank with dura lube in it.
im gonna look into replacing the cat myself. If it seems easy enough I will give it a go. I will change some of the less expensive parts in the system as well. My question is, why would it pull the po420 code and say the cat if it isn’t the cat?
like Rodent I am try to get as many years out of my car as I can.
By the way, day 4 after using Dura Lube and the CEL came on again. not even at half a tank of gas. Cleared the code and gonna wait and see what happens after I finish the entire tank with dura lube in it.
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@CJK I'd do the sparkplug anti-fouler mod to the downstream O2 sensor bung on your Versa. It might push that sensor out of the exhaust stream enough to keep the catalyst inefficiency code away. It's not a legal or legit fix obviously, but its OK for the DIYer to do. None of the shops I go to for yearly state inspections would notice or care.
Yes... I've used that method for testing purposes and like it. I wish I could have used it to get through my emissions inspection.
The technician doing the inspection had a mirror tilted on wheels that he slides under the car. I don't know if he was looking for a missing catalytic converter or if he was looking for the anti-fouler thing. I was kind of scared to take the chance, so I just put on a new cat every couple of years.
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I would still attempt it on a vehicle that isn't worth a new CC for what ever reason. Worst they could do is fail you and send you on your way.
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Thank you PoMan. How do I do that mod? Any how to videos online? And does this mod affect the way the car runs?
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Just google it. It's just a threaded fitting that you thread in between the downstream O2 sensor and the exhaust system. You'll have to remove the downstream (rear most O2 sensor), thread in the anti fouler or even 2 antifoulers, put the O2 sensor back in and drive the vehicle. They work by keeping the sensor out of the exhaust stream just enough, that is see's an O2 content that may (and I stress may) keep the catalyst inefficiency code away. If one doesn't work. Try two of them threaded together.
The other possibilities that would cause a p0420 are extremely rare, exhaust leak, a/f sensor, o2 sensor. I wouldn't really even consider them. I've never once seen this code not be a bad convertor.
As far as inspections go with a spacer on there, I don't know if it's part of your states rules to check or not. In NY, we'd consider it tampering, and depending on the inspector, it would fail if they saw it and cared. They're pretty obvious, I think at least.
Nissans do use the o2 sensor for some fuel control, so it's possible that it could set a light for a post catalyst lean or rich condition, but that code is generally more common with long highway stretches.
As far as inspections go with a spacer on there, I don't know if it's part of your states rules to check or not. In NY, we'd consider it tampering, and depending on the inspector, it would fail if they saw it and cared. They're pretty obvious, I think at least.
Nissans do use the o2 sensor for some fuel control, so it's possible that it could set a light for a post catalyst lean or rich condition, but that code is generally more common with long highway stretches.
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My state doesn't have emission tests any longer. My main concern is keeping Vera (Vera the Versa) on the road and running as good as possible, for as long as possible.
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