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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2007 Versa, just hit 200,000 miles, major tune up, changed valve cover gasket, spark plugs, ignition coil, O2 sensor, EVPR valve, PCV valve, now one problem left I cannot fix the problem. Cold start, the RPM go from 1300 down to 900 no issue. As long as I shifted to reverse or drive, the RPM dropped to 800 and felt the car had rough idle (vibrating). Put back in park or neutral, it's better, climb back to 950 RPM. Drive on the road feels ok, accelerate on highway no issue. I thought it is vacuum leak, spray Carb cleaner to all hoses, no change. check MAF, looks okay, unplugged MAF and start the car, drop dead. Plug back in, car start, no issue. Plan to do compression check this weekend. Need some pointer how to fix the problem.
 

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2014 Nissan Versa Note
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2007 Versa, just hit 200,000 miles, major tune up, changed valve cover gasket, spark plugs, ignition coil, O2 sensor, EVPR valve, PCV valve, now one problem left I cannot fix the problem. Cold start, the RPM go from 1300 down to 900 no issue. As long as I shifted to reverse or drive, the RPM dropped to 800 and felt the car had rough idle (vibrating). Put back in park or neutral, it's better, climb back to 950 RPM. Drive on the road feels ok, accelerate on highway no issue. I thought it is vacuum leak, spray Carb cleaner to all hoses, no change. check MAF, looks okay, unplugged MAF and start the car, drop dead. Plug back in, car start, no issue. Plan to do compression check this weekend. Need some pointer how to fix the problem.
my car does essentially this same thing. i'm not at all an expert but this may be because of your a/c being on. run the same tests with and without the a/c on and compare the two. i noticed on my versa that if i have the a/c on and idle in drive it will switch between ~1250 and ~750, while no a/c has a constant ~750.
if the issue persists even with the a/c off then it may be a mechanical issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All accessories were off, same issue. The interesting thing is when I put in drive the car jerking forward unlike a good car gradually pulling forward. I am doing the engine compression test now. Anyone knows where is the gas pump fuse? I need to disconnect it first.
 

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Because It's a Versa with 200k miles. It might be on its last legs. I don't know how many miles you can get out of that motor.
Again, even considering the mileage of the car and it being on its last legs, what motor/engine itself has to do with the problem the OP described in the beginning of this thread, and therefore why the engine compressing test is warranted? I don't know much about cars, and just want to logically approach the troubleshooting tree, if it is all possible.
 

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08 versa hb
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Again, even considering the mileage of the car and it being on its last legs, what motor/engine itself has to do with the problem the OP described in the beginning of this thread, and therefore why the engine compressing test is warranted? I don't know much about cars, and just want to logically approach the troubleshooting tree, if it is all possible.
With todays cars there can be so many different things that cause problems. I certainly don't claim to be an expert either. He has addressed many things where problems may crop up. It would not hurt to do a compression check just to see if the engine is just plain worn out. I would assume that if you have one or more cylinders with poor compression that it could cause a rough running/idling engine. It is quite a bit of work to back in and do that check though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, use code reader, no error code. Finally, found the fuel pump fuse in the front fuse box. I did a compression test this weekend. Found cylinder #1 had 90psi, #2- 170, #3 170, #4 155. Definite cylinder #1 low compresswion causing unbalance power distribution. I use the Greenbelt technique, fixed all other issues. This is the last leg. One more try to bring up the compression will be great. Remember, this is Versa, lots of work to remove all spark plugs get to the compression test though.
 

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Yes, use code reader, no error code. Finally, found the fuel pump fuse in the front fuse box. I did a compression test this weekend. Found cylinder #1 had 90psi, #2- 170, #3 170, #4 155. Definite cylinder #1 low compresswion causing unbalance power distribution. I use the Greenbelt technique, fixed all other issues. This is the last leg. One more try to bring up the compression will be great. Remember, this is Versa, lots of work to remove all spark plugs get to the compression test though.
I'm pretty surprised to see low compression there. It's not common at all on any modern Nissans. Like any engine, it's a long lasting one if maintained.

Any chance you overheated it and there's a crack somewhere? Those numbers don't show a gasket leak between cylinders.

If you put a cap of oil in the cylinder and test it again, if the compression goes up a significant amount, that generally indicates bad rings. If that's the case, you could roll the dice with one of those 'fix in a bottle' jobs like Restore, but I have zero experience with them and am skeptical. To me, at this point, I'd try that and if it doesn't work decide between a junkyard engine or a new car.

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2011 Nissan Versa S 1.8 Automatic Sedan
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I had a similar issue, What I found that fixed it was cleaning the mass airflow sensor, and cleaning out the throttle throughly with the respective cleaners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did use Restore it works, it doesn't burn oil as before, the gas mileage went back to normal. The only problem left was the engine vibration, I am thinking the intake/exhaust valve may have build up to prevents it work properly. In 3 or 4 days, when the idle fluctuating enough, it throw error code P0300 then P0301, point to cylinder #1. I did vacuum check, no leaks, Reset and go away for a few days. The only thing left is the head. Am I on the right track?
 

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If there is low compression, that's the problem. Fuel trim values would show if the maf sensor dirty, and I've never seen that be the case on a Nissan.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I took the MAF out, looks really clean, didn't try to wash it if not necessary. Wouldn't it be the throttle valve sensor off when I pushed the butterfly up to wash it? May be I should relearn it to see what happen.
 

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What is the compression on that cylinder now? It could still be too low and causing that misfire.

If your scantool reads live data what are the short term and long term fuel trims at idle, then held at 2500 rpms for like 10 seconds? The sum of these two numbers should be near 0%, but plus or minus 10% is acceptable. High % at idle that goes closer to 0 with rpms is a vacuum leak. Numbers that increase %with rpm suspect fuel delivery or dirty MAF.

If you moved the throttle plate manually, you have to do some relearns.

Did you already swap the coil to another cylinder to see if the miss moves with it?


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I don't have a good scan tool to read live data. I did try the smoke test, no leaks, Swap spark plug and coil from 1 to 4. last week still show P0301 at stop light. I have not re-measure the compression yet. Try to understand more before make next move. Changed the motor mount, not that. But more obvious that the vibration from the engine, less vibration at park or neutral and no error code RPM at 1000. stop at the light it throw the code P0300 and vibration, RPM at 800. I am skeptical with other peopel's relearn. My car cold start at 1400 RPM, after warm up stay at 1000, put in drive drop to 800. Seems normal, accelerate with no issue, Other people need to relearn when their RPM go up to 2000RPM or higher???
 

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You're supposed to relearn anytime you touch the throttle plate, replace throttle body, or ecm. It ends up relearning on its own eventually.

I'd check compression since we know it was a problem before and I'm skeptical of engine rebuild in a bottle. I've never once replace injectors on a Nissan due to a restriction, or seen anyone do it. We just had a z350 that sat for 5 years and the customer was adamant that the injectors were clogged and that's why it was towed in. Fuel pump was shot. Injectors were fine.

Just pick up a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 dongle for your phone on Amazon to get some data. They're like $10. You'll have high fuel trims if it's running lean. Look up injector balance test. It's how you diagnose a leaking or clogged injector with a fuel pressure gauge and tool that pulses the injector.

First thing I'd do next is the compression test before that misfire ruins your convertor.

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