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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does the MR18 need valve adjustment?

I'm at 138,000K runs O.K but don't know if it needs some adjustments :confused:


Thanks!
 

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It probably needs a valve adjustment, but these (like many Nissan motors) use shim and bucket lifters, to bring the clearance back to spec you need to order the proper thickness shim. I've explored doing it since my 1.8 has 325 000KM on it, has sounded like a TDI at idle for a long time. It can be done i just am not sure how the shimming works, whether Nissan sells just shims, or do you have to buy a whole new lifter?

Plus you have to take out the cams to put the shims in.
 

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They are not shimmed. I just read the fsm and there set size valve lifters

heres a quote from the fsm

"NOTE:
Available thickness of valve lifter: 26 sizes range 3.00 to 3.50 mm (0.1181 to 0.1378 in) in steps of 0.02
mm (0.0008 in) (when manufactured at factory). Refer to EM-111, "Standard and Limit"."

pretty shitty setup if you ask me.

First you have to measure the valve gap then take it all apart and measure the thickness of the lifter. Not something you want to do in your backyard especially if you require the use of the car, then select a thicker lifter to compensate for wear
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, I called the NISSAN dealer

The tech said valves do not need adjustment unless there's something wrong, and I would have to bring it in and let them do an engine diagnostic to see if there's any problems.

and as far as "How Much" $$$$$$$$ he said it depends on the problem
 

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Lol don't need valve adjustment? They're not hydraulic lifters. Cams will wear the lifters down in a short time to the point that they will need it. Not only does it produce an audible noise when they're out of adjustment but reduces power a bit since you aren't getting full lift. They make a special tool that allows you to slip shims under the lifters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
figure 100$ an hour plus parts and shop fee so id probably say 600$ ish at least
probably...and even if I had factory warranty, they won't fix it unless they know for a fact something is broken

If it aint broke, dont fix it.
I agree 100%, but there's also that little voice on the back of my head saying
YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!!!! "MUAHAHAHA!!!!" :26:
and I have the other voice saying
"don't worry...its normal, you don't burn oil or anything :Angel_anim:

Lol don't need valve adjustment? They're not hydraulic lifters. Cams will wear the lifters down in a short time to the point that they will need it. Not only does it produce an audible noise when they're out of adjustment but reduces power a bit since you aren't getting full lift. They make a special tool that allows you to slip shims under the lifters.
are hydraulic lifters more quiet than solid lifters?
and if we had hydraulic lifters then we should not hear ticking sounds? because that would mean we have a problem for sure.

the valve ticking sound:
I can hear it when I have the windows up, and the radio down to level 5, just on idle or drivng @40MPH or less
Once I go 45MPH or more the tire road noise and wind noise drowns out the sewing machine valve noise. when I drive the engine for an hour, all I hear is valves.

at this point to really find out if there's a problem, I would need to run a compression test on all cylinders.

or crack the window open or turn the radio level 6 or higher =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
when I called the dealer, i think all the tech heard was

"my car sounds like bangbangbangtickticktick...well no bang but ticking when is cold, what's wrong and how much to fix it?" :limp wrist:

:idea: bring it in and we will let you know


it is hard to diagnose a car over the phone and over the internet


will keep you guys posted if I find out any more info
 

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Compression test is something totally different. A valve adjustment may be necessary on your engine but if you don't do it you can keep driving it no problem, just that they'll make more noise and you might theoretically get a bit of a decrease in power when you mash the pedal. The problem with shim and bucket is that they're simple and rarely do lifters themselves fail, but that clearances are different when cold and warm, so even when the clearance is within specification, you'll still get lifter tick at cold startup. Hydraulic lifters are self adjusting, they are essentially 2 "buckets" that slide within each other, that fill with engine oil, and a spring inside to make them self adjusting. Liquids are incompressible, so the hydraulic lifter is supposed to behave like a solid piece of metal when full of oil.

Valve adjustment is normal maintenance, problem is alot of Nissan motors use shim and bucket, which is harder to adjust than a roller rocker setup like some Honda motors use, all you have to do to adjust a roller rocker setup is use a feeler gauge that is the proper thickness for the desired clearance, and tighten your rocker down on it.
 

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theres a lot of misinformation here. versas do not use adjustible rocker arms or shims refer to the fsm if you want to argue first. Newer ecotec engines are the same way. Here are direct snipping from the fsm.




 

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I'm very curious the cost of such a job. I myself never had any adjustments made to any of my cars. I'd be the guy to just drive the car until it dies then swap an entire engine in.
 

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I never said the MR's use adjustable rocker arms... i was using it to illustrate the point that performing a valve adjustment on shim and bucket lifters is harder, and takes much more labor than a roller rocker setup like many Honda motors use.

I may be incorrect in that you cannot just buy predermined thickness "shims" and slide them under the lifter buckets, that's what i assumed you could do on these but apparently Nissan only sells entire lifters, entire lifters are probably $50 bucks a pop from Nissan. Hell with the cost and time you need to invest in a simple valve adjustment on these motors, it'd be easier to just buy a low mileage head from an MR18 and swap the head... haha.
 

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Your videos sound like a piston slap. My car is a 2009 auto, and when first started, if you put the car in "Drive", the sound immediately gets louder. If it were a lifter, the sound would not change. My car is slated to go to the dealer shortly for this problem, and I expect to get another engine put in under warranty. This sound was first brought to the dealers attention when I had 5000 miles on the car, and it has increased in intensity since that time. The explanation given at that time was that it was a normal Versa injector "pulse" sound. Well, if were a normal injector "pulse" sound, it would not have gotten louder over the years, or be affected by cold weather setting in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Your videos sound like a piston slap. My car is a 2009 auto, and when first started, if you put the car in "Drive", the sound immediately gets louder. If it were a lifter, the sound would not change. My car is slated to go to the dealer shortly for this problem, and I expect to get another engine put in under warranty. This sound was first brought to the dealers attention when I had 5000 miles on the car, and it has increased in intensity since that time. The explanation given at that time was that it was a normal Versa injector "pulse" sound. Well, if were a normal injector "pulse" sound, it would not have gotten louder over the years, or be affected by cold weather setting in.
that is good you're getting a new engine at no cost.

on my case,
I'm out of warranty (138,598.98745 miles) so I'm stuck with her to the end, not sure how long she will go with this piston cancer.

I will keep doing what I'm doing.

A. Don't red line the engine.
B. Try to avoid going over 4000RPMs
C. keep checking the oil and top it off when needed
D. Keep changing the oil every 3 months or 5,000 miles
E. Let the engine warm up in cold mornings 5 to 10 minutes
F. Don't let other ppl drive my car
G. Hope for the best

I don't want to trade her in, don't like anything else
 

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As far as the engine replacement, I still have to convince the dealership that there is a problem. The last time I took it in, I left it overnight so it could be started up cold the next morning. As luck would have it, the next day set a record high temperature of 90 degrees, so the service advisor suggested I wait until Nov.-Dec to bring it in so they can make a better diagnosis. My warranty runs until May 2014, so I still have time. If they fail to agree that there is a problem, I will take it to the next level. The car was purchased and all service done by the same dealership, so don't expect any problems, but who knows. As far as your vehicle, if it isn't burning any oil between changes, the odds are that you will get a good deal more service out of your engine. Best of luck to you, and your list of things you are doing is right on the money.





that is good you're getting a new engine at no cost.

on my case,
I'm out of warranty (138,598.98745 miles) so I'm stuck with her to the end, not sure how long she will go with this piston cancer.

I will keep doing what I'm doing.

A. Don't red line the engine.
B. Try to avoid going over 4000RPMs
C. keep checking the oil and top it off when needed
D. Keep changing the oil every 3 months or 5,000 miles
E. Let the engine warm up in cold mornings 5 to 10 minutes
F. Don't let other ppl drive my car
G. Hope for the best

I don't want to trade her in, don't like anything else
 
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