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If the previous bearings had rings you commonly reuse them to read the ring, depends on the sensor design. If just the bearing you are supposed to pay attention to which side goes toward the sensor, the bearing shield color tells you. Black or dark gray is the side read by sensor.

The odds of getting a new bearing back out and back in again are not good, commonly destroyed removing it.
 

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Hopefully you or a shop will start by looking into what shares the same circuit with the dash cluster.
 

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(chuckling to self), doesn't just about everything on a car tie into cluster circuits?

If the wheel sensors are 2 wire you can test them by spinning wheel and wires hooked up to an old analog VOM if you have one lying around. Why I keep mine, good for reading crank and cam sensors too. Use VOM set at as low a d/c volt as it will go.

Problem is likely the work there if the problem showed up after. Not big on Master Pro bearings after getting ones that had zero grease in them. I only buy the upper end brands now at $50 each, those never fail, the cheap crap $25 ones will fail at a 50% rate. I prefer to install wheel bearings to never have to do it again.
 

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No problem, I was just being facetious.

BTW I love your pic there, my favorite OG character............that look just makes me forget everything that is bad in the world.
 

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If the previous bearings had rings you commonly reuse them to read the ring, depends on the sensor design. If just the bearing you are supposed to pay attention to which side goes toward the sensor, the bearing shield color tells you. Black or dark gray is the side read by sensor.

The odds of getting a new bearing back out and back in again are not good, commonly destroyed removing it.
If the bearings are going to get destroyed at this point any way I’d rather just replace the part that contains the bearings instead of (the pain in the ass of)pressing it again. I don’t have the VOM or tools to connect directly to the speed sensor. Can you tell me the name of the part that the bearing is in? I already have to replace the control arm on one side any way because I tore the ball joint while trying to replace the bearings. I am a novice, I’m slowly learning from my mistakes.
 

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Can't tell you spit without a model and year and options.

You should also know that when you buy the combined bearing plus this or that the bearing typically used in those is worst of the worst as far as quality goes. I used to sell them. One way to tell is to assume the bearing by itself at $25 for low quality one and $50 for high and work that against the price of the combined part, that gives you some clue.
 

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Can't tell you spit without a model and year and options.

You should also know that when you buy the combined bearing plus this or that the bearing typically used in those is worst of the worst as far as quality goes. I used to sell them. One way to tell is to assume the bearing by itself at $25 for low quality one and $50 for high and work that against the price of the combined part, that gives you some clue.
I’ll do the comparison on price against the combined part as soon as I can figure out the part name. I’ve got a 2016 Nissan Versa Note SV. Thanks for the help.
 

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Many choices are simply for bearing only and you have to have it pressed into the other part. I found one place listing a hub assembly for the front. The rear bearing presses into the drum if drum brake.

Car still new enough maybe all the choices have not matured into being yet, it can take up to 4 years to do that. The copyright of basic specs takes like 2 years to release to begin with before aftermarket can even begin to make it.
 

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Any 'retainer' there more likely a circlip and bent can present a much greater issue than the sensor not reading. Clip comes out since not in fully due to bent and tears up stuff or even the bearing begins to move.

Your more direct answer = not likely. Bent means not in the groove and incompetent work if that was left like that.
 

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.. Can you tell me the name of the part that the bearing is in? I already have to replace the control arm on one side any way because I tore the ball joint while trying to replace the bearings. I am a novice, I’m slowly learning from my mistakes.
Steering knuckle?

On the ~2014+, the bearing is pressed into the knuckle, then held in by a circlip on the inside like amc mentioned. The hub (with the lug studs) is pressed into the bearing. The hub and whole assembly is held in place by the axle nut.

You mentioned having lower control arms being replaced? The lower ball joint has to be popped loose from the knuckle, the steering link and the strut such that you can get the knuckle off the CV shaft to do all the work.

It looks like a quality bearing just by itself is ~$200. If you need a new hub, that's extra. Wheel speed sensor = extra. Now's the time to address any front brake issue.. Ugh. You get the picture.:frown
 

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When I was talking about a bent ring it was the circlip I was referring to(I went to the parts department at the dealership and they showed me a blown out view to identify the parts). The circlip was bent in a way that was having the opening closer together. The circlip sits flush down in to the knuckle but it has a little wiggle room. I asked if I needed a new circlip and he assured me it’s fine, it just keeps the bearing in. I bought the bearings from the dealership because maybe the master pro bearings can’t be read by the sensor or one/both of the bearings were put in backwards. There’s no way to tell from the error code checker. Both sides of the master pro bearings look the same and have the black ring. On the dealership bearings only one side shows the black ring and the other side is silver. They let me know that if I buy the knuckle it would be bare and I’d have to buy and press in bearings anyway. So my next step in fixing this is to press in the dealership bearings. I apologize for the confusion in my description of this problem. I bet it had everyone scratch their heads. I do appreciate the aid in helping me understand the problem and giving me information on how to fix it.
 

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I believe wheel speed is read off the CV shaft, not the bearing. There is a ring gear of sorts on the outside of the outer CV joint that the sensor reads off of.
 

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I fixed the issue. I pressed in the bearings I got from the dealership and cleared the codes. 1 day later now and my car still hasn’t put any lights up on the dash(indicating to check for codes). Thank you all for your help.
 

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Still completely confused, but glad for you that your issue is gone!

Like said, on a 2016 Versa, the wheel speed sensor should have nothing to do with the wheel bearing(s) themselves. The wheel speed sensor mounted in the knuckle reads a ring on the CV shaft.
 
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