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My 2015 Versa SV sedan has begun losing power when taking off from a stop. It feels like I'm pulsing the throttle. After the third or fourth time experiencing this, I realized I only noticed this happening when I slowed or stopped and made a right turn. Never to the left. Odd?

Today I'm walking away from the car and hit the lock button on the remote and the rear right turn signal doesn't flash. I check and the bulb isn't blown but just barely glows.

Hour later I'm driving on the interstate and make a lane change. As the right turn signal is blinking, the engine is cutting out again. That's when I realized the pulse of the engine cutting out is with the turn signal. Seriously! Can this car get any weirder
Grasping at straws here............try removing the bulb from the right rear turn signal and see if there is any difference. If not, see if there are any codes being stored. Most auto supply stores will check for codes for free. While you are there, have them check you alternator and see what kind of voltage it is putting out, and have the battery tested under load. Be sure to check out the battery terminal posts and clamps for any corrosion . If all that checks out as o.k., I would then check all of the fuses for any type of corrosion. Pull the fuse out, check it with a multi-tester to make sure it is good, use electronic contact cleaner, and then re-insert the fuse. I know that this will take a little work, but it is not costing you any cash at this point. Good luck!!!
 

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Yeah I would guess short someplace. The funny thing is that I just watched a youtube video about a guy chasing several unrelated electoral issues. Come to find out, all the effected systems shared a harness connection that had melted and started to fuse the wires together.

Maybe chase the blinker circuit all the way back to the battery and see if you find any issues.
**But i'm just guessing**


 

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I believe there is a TSB / recall (NTB15-082) for this issue. Corrosion in the tail lamp circuitry tricks the computer into thinking that the brakes are on. Nissan vehicles go into reduced power mode when brakes are applied. I think the recall may only apply to 2012-2014 models but that doesn't necessarily mean the same condition couldn't occur on a 2015. Worth taking a look at in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
SOLVED

You were spot on. No corrosion, no signs of moisture anywhere.
The female pin in the wire connector for the positive side of the turn signal was loose. I pulled it from the connector and used pliers to squeeze it, so its grip on the male pin is tighter.

Seems to have fixed the problem.

And confirm that this is my first and last nissan.
 

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Good luck with that, it occurs on every brand on the planet now. Rebending contacts to make sure pins touch should be one of the first things you do on ANY circuit now using small pins or wire bail to make contact. If at the bulb socket now you know why to be quiet about oldschool 1157 bulb types as they would never have that issue like the modern wire bail lamps do.

I would take an 1157 bayonet connector over an inline one all day long, for one they are often not plastic to melt due to the crap low contact area points that overheat to warp the pin contacts to open up to begin with.

ALWAYS rebend the contacts to make them grab bulb tighter or where there was no contact before, I've cured problems literally uncountable times all over cars doing it. Small pins cannot carry the amp the oldschool larger ones did and then the contact point overheats and if backed or mounted in plastic the warping to loosen up often becomes permanent.

I fix headlights at the plugs all the time doing that.

The 1157 bulb type was a BETTER design, but it takes TWO motions to install them whereas the new inline base bulbs only take one. You got a crappier design there because the OEM wanted to save a couple seconds installing bulbs on the line there and less metal used in bulb to make it cheaper (and overheat easier, more maintenance work for the dealers like almost happened here).

Look closer to discover that most later designed electrical on any brand of cars is engineered to do the same, crappier parts, easier to install, and drive more work to the dealers. On say Fords the new bulbs overheat so much they commonly weld the light sockets to the taillight lens assemblies to then require a new lens assembly at $$$$$$ and you need a dremel to cut the sockets loose to fix them yourself without spending those bucks.

Newer is NOT better there.
 

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Most likely your aftermarket head unit is drawing more current then the wire you "commandeered" can handle without the wire getting very hot. Not hot enough to totally melt the connector block but hot enough to make the plastic very soft. The Soft plastic allows wire connectors to shift around over time and eventually causing "small" partial shorts. My guess is that every circuit that is acting strangely goes through the same (now slightly melted) multi connector block.

If so, than any disconnecting of wires or trouble shooting that you do, such as disconnecting the power to the head unit will not solve problem as the partially shorted connector block in question is upstream (and still connected to the cars fuse box) from your head unit.

Hope this helps.

JJC
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Most likely your aftermarket head unit is drawing more current then the wire you "commandeered" can handle without the wire getting very hot. Not hot enough to totally melt the connector block but hot enough to make the plastic very soft. The Soft plastic allows wire connectors to shift around over time and eventually causing "small" partial shorts. My guess is that every circuit that is acting strangely goes through the same (now slightly melted) multi connector block.

If so, than any disconnecting of wires or trouble shooting that you do, such as disconnecting the power to the head unit will not solve problem as the partially shorted connector block in question is upstream (and still connected to the cars fuse box) from your head unit.

Hope this helps.

JJC
My head unit is not aftermarket. I have spliced no wires involving the head unit and have not connected anything to the rear turn signal wire. Only splice is to add back up camera to the reverse light wire.

Sorry for sounding short, but it's been one of those days.
 

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