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Filter and Oil Change

14340 Views 36 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Kennethbokor
what kind of filter and oil should i use?im planning to do it by myself because the price here in winterpeg is killing me.. and any instructional video would be awesome too.. thanks a lot..
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i always buy the longer filter that fits Nissan trucks etc for more filtration, has same size base. i think a few people here use that trick:)
As smart as that may sound its actually not a very smart process to be doing.

Running the wrong Oil filter means your oil pressure is different, which can lead to lots of problems in the long run.

Oil filters are NOT the same, just like oils. You can't just stick any old filter on your car because it fits, each filter is designed to fit your specific vehicle for a reason.

One extremely important thing you may be missing without realizing it could be that the filter you're using doesn't have an anti-drainback valve in it, which could be devastating for your engine.

Always use the filter specific to your vehicle, Nissan/Renault didn't spend millions of dollars invested in designing your motor to fit any old filter :)
Ah that makes very good sense. I'll switch back to factory spec.
Idk if these have drain back valve or not, i'll check.
Thanks AusTiida!
That was very helpful info...
Will always consider buying myself an OEM filter...
If i buy custom, i'll always make sure they meet the OEM specs!
Thanks..
so i got the time to change my wife's car but when i got home with oil and filter with me, my wife told me she went already to Super Lube and changed the oil and have it checked. (facepalm) well there's nothing i can do. So i reviewed the test results from the shop and seems everything is normal expect for this two "Slight Rear Engine Seal Leak and Slight Leak in Oil Pan/Oil Sending" so guys bare with me since im a noob about this do i need to worry about this and send our car to the shop? what do i need to do?
Keep an eye on the level, as you should do anyway. Then next oil change inspect for these leaks yourself. I have no clue what a rear engine seal is on a Versa. If this were a rwd car it would be the rear main seal which is almost impossible to see with the transmission on.
That annoying moment when you open the hood in public to check oil levels, and all zombies start getting attracted to you, and others stare you like meat.
Has anyone ever used Royal Purple in their Versa's? I'm looking around and researching different brands and I'm hearing all sorts of different opinions about it. Anyone use it first hand and if so, did you notice any improvement at all. I don't think paying $120+ for oil and filter justifies using it unless I can get huge gains out of it.
my bro used RP in a nissan once. Said the engine made a ton more noise. I personally have never tried it and never will. Too expensive, not locally found and too expensive. Yup I mentioned it twice.
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230000km DIY oil change Friday.
Action shot draining oil
Auto part Gas Vehicle

After I said I wouldn't use the longer filters...:what:
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Auto part Wheel Bearing Automotive wheel system Oil filter

Overhead V shot while draining
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Thanks Jason for posting some pics.

I was just under my Versa SL today changing a foglight bulb (what a pain in the butt to get to) and looked for the Oil Drain Plug and Filter. Drain Plug is easy to get to, but the Filter is not so easy. It seems to get best leverage, I would have to remove the plastic engine "shield" underneath first.

Is the Filter really tough to remove? I am considering starting to do my own oil changes on both V's starting next year, since I picked up some Car Ramps and have all the tools (been changing out my own tires too), but that Filter seems really hard for me to get too.

Your experience and advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, Ken
Ken I'm changing oil tonight, I'll take a short video reaching the filter etc.
Ken I'm changing oil tonight, I'll take a short video reaching the filter etc.
You going from above or below to remove the filter? I have done both and found above to be much easier.
Either from top or bottom is about the same effort... you need to remove the lower belly pan/cowl either way, and you're down there anyways.

Using a filter with a bigger volume won't affect oil pressure, if anything all it will affect is the duration that the oil pump sucks dry after an oil change (longer duration). Which begs the question, is the increased particle holding capacity worth the increased initial start up bearing wear? Doubtful.

For the guy asking about RP, i have never used it in my engine but i do use it in my tranny (75W90) and i'm happy.
I've always removed this filter from below. I just reach around the plastic pan and crank it off. Watch this time I'll try it with the camera on and won't go so well...
I also wanna try RP in the tranny, currently doesn't like to leave first gear at minus twenty something
Either from top or bottom is about the same effort... you need to remove the lower belly pan/cowl either way, and you're down there anyways.

Using a filter with a bigger volume won't affect oil pressure, if anything all it will affect is the duration that the oil pump sucks dry after an oil change (longer duration). Which begs the question, is the increased particle holding capacity worth the increased initial start up bearing wear? Doubtful.

For the guy asking about RP, i have never used it in my engine but i do use it in my tranny (75W90) and i'm happy.

I have never removed that plastic piece underneath and I have quite a few oil changes done at 144k miles :grin.

I find from the top takes much less effort. Yes you need to move the overflow over but that just slides in and out. But the real benefit to me is how much easier it is to get a grip on the filter and unscrew it when in a standing position as opposed to on your back. As well as the ease of screwing the new one back on. Plus no ramps, jacks or jack stands needed. I don't even lay down anymore, just reach under and feel for the drain plug.

Of course if you have a slammed car you may still need to jack it up to get the drain pan under.
I find from the top takes much less effort. Yes you need to move the overflow over but that just slides in and out. But the real benefit to me is how much easier it is to get a grip on the filter and unscrew it when in a standing position as opposed to on your back. As well as the ease of screwing the new one back on. Plus no ramps, jacks or jack stands needed. I don't even lay down anymore, just reach under and feel for the drain plug.
I've gotta give that a try. It's gotta be cleaner as well accessing from the top.
I do like to have a good look underneath the car though.
I took a couple of very short videos I'll post on my fb.
I'm curious to know if there's any difference in clearance between hr16 and mr18
Thanks Jay and all.

I did a change in December and was straight forward. I did thru the bottom as thru the top was not easy for me.

Easy underneath and I did take off the plastic shield as only took a minute or two to remove.

All in all a relatively easy and enjoyable process.
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