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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are there any specific symptoms for a fuel pump/regulator etc. going bad? Some of you might remember a problem I had a couple months back when my car wouldn't start. Well it ended up not been the Pump cause the car started like two days later and hadn't had any issues, till now. Just over the weekend I tried starting the car in fairly warmed weather but had a hard time. I was able to started but only after several attempts. I'm not too mechanically oriented or know many terms but all I can say is that I tried turning the key and the car would, correct me if i'm wrong, crank but wouldn't start. Only after 3-4 attempts and pressing the gas petal on the last attempt did it start. This was yesterday morning and it hasn't happened again, yet. So I guess my question is are there any tells to when something is wrong and should be replaced or looked into? Thanks much
 

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sounds like the fuel pressure regulator issue to me. Only way to test is to test the fuel pressure after several hours. If the pressure drops it's the regulator. But in order to do that you will need a pressure gauge and you will need to tie into the fuel line. Not something everyone really wants to do. Unhooking fuel lines can be a pain and you will dump fuel everywhere.

Considering so many regulator issues I would be willing to bet that it is your problem. Good luck and I hope you get her fixed. When I had similar issues I would turn the key to on and wait a little bit before attempting to crank the engine. It seemed to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
God I hope it's just the regulator, pump would be too expensive for me right now. I think I will try your trick first. Thanks
 

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Could be crank sensor too.
 

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Your symptoms same as mine when fpr went. Pumped like mad to start it sometimes, other times no prob. I'm not a tech but sounds like fpr to me
 

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Try turning the ignition on and wait 5 seconds before engaging the starter. I have to do this if I haven't used the car for several days. This allows the fuel pressure to build up to normal before the engine tries to start.

Frank 2009 Versa S Sedan with MT-6
 

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If it's really pooched cycling the key won't build pressure at all since the return system is completely open when it shouldn't be. There is a check valve held on the regulator with just adhesive and under some occasions it falls right off and leaks system pressure completely. Exacerbated by the fact that the PCM shuts off fuel pump power if a crank signal above 250RPM is achieved after a predetermined time, usually 2 seconds in my experience. A scan tool or software with full data streaming/data decoding is useful here, to see what the fuel system is doing.

Treat it like a conventional return system, difference is that rail pressure is modulated at the tank rather than by the usual FPR's and manifold absolute pressure signal.
 

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Does the versa have a return to the fuel tank? I didn't think it did.
 

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Does the versa have a return to the fuel tank? I didn't think it did.
Not a physical "line" but i'm saying the principles are the same, fuel pump pressurizes fuel to a static pressure, then it goes to the regulator which modulates that pressure (dynamic pressure) similar to how a regular one does, and dumps excess fuel off internally. Just there for weight reduction, simplicity, and keeps fuel cooler, way less load on EVAP, especially in hot weather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys, you have all been very helpful.
 
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