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I've had my Versa for 5 yrs with a little over 90,000 miles, I had to replace the battery, 3 weeks ago. I've driven it from Georgia, to Florida, to DC, to Georgia and everywhere in between. Never had any issues. I've only replaced the tires (3 yrs ago), breaks (1 yr ago). I had the battery replaced at an automotive shop that is well known and honest. They did a complete diagnostic test and said it was good to go with a new battery. I drove the car a few days and parked it in the garage since I was going out of town for 1 week. Car started drove it to work and on my way home it shut down on a major highway in Atlanta, GA. I had it towed to the shop where they replaced the battery. The shop owner checked everything said he replaced a fuse and had to reprogram the key. I drive off the lot drive about 5 miles and it dies again. Tow it back to the shop and 1.5 weeks later I still don't have my car and it's a mystery to the mechanics :frown:frown:frown Has this happened to anyone else? Any suggestions? Besides buying a new car. LOL I miss my little Versa....
 

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msrico1 said:
They did a complete diagnostic test
Well we don't know exactly what they consider a "diagnostic test" but as you can see plugging in a scanner and not coming up with any trouble codes doesn't really mean diddly squat as far as the car's actual health and distance-to-next-failure are concerned. People think these cars have some sort of omnipotent computer that *knows* all about whats going on and how the car is doing, nothing could be further from the truth. The car's computer knows a lot about a handful of specific useful things but it knows very little of many other critical aspects of the car. Many components are fine one day and dead the next, without warning.

Its very easy for a shop to build up a "good" reputation fixing just the three common easy things that fail on everyone's cars (starters, alternators, and batteries), its when you get a non-typical failure you find out real fast how good they actually are.
 

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Killing a new battery and a blowing fuse... I would suspect a short somewhere in the circuit of that fuse. For example, damaged wiring could arc out to blow the fuse, or short just enough to drain the battery when the car is turned off... and damaged wiring can be an intermittent failure, only draining the battery if exposed conductors are touching ground...

Certain types of electrical components can short before they fail completely, and even some failures might not be noticed immediately, a license plate light for example...

The tech should start removing the fuse that blew, and putting his ammeter across the terminals for that fuse, to see how much current is flowing, with the car off and on, and running...
 

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New batteries are like 80% charged. Its enough to get you going, but if your charging system isnt up to it it will die further down the road.

Thats assuming its fairly new. Ive seen batteries on the shelf that are covered in dust and several years old. :surprise

When you test a battery you need the unloaded and loaded voltage. Many new testers tell you the capacity and current charge. The older style tester uses a heating element to put the battery under load and test the voltage. Using a voltage meter to check the voltage unloaded is rather pointless.

For example the battery in my van rates at 802 amps but was only charged to 600 or so and needed a charge. Turns out I needed a trickle charger as the short trips to take my mother shopping were putting in what I was taking out.

Then you got the alternator and regulator. The regulator, well regulates what the alternator makes to keep the battery full and power everything. The alternator varies its output with engine speed and they reduce output as they get older. Both are subject to heat and anything electrical is subject to loose or poor connections.

I did the BIG 3 upgrade to my car and also went to the shock towers or close as I could on each side and the radiator support.
 
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