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The yellowish along with the red needles aren't exactly the best color combo. Easier to see red needles on the white background.
I have the same white/red needles color combo in my work truck. Doesn't reflect off the windows and is easy to read at a glance.
You are correct about color combinations for reading the gauges, particularly during daylight, but I was talking about what colors are better for preserving night vision when driving at night and watching outside at the road ahead. Whitish gauges background is not the best for night vision. That's why for a scope reticle, if your concern is to preserve night vision, red is your friend, even though some other colors are better at bright daytime.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Could you point out what you need to upgrade this? How did you wire the tweeters?
Thanks 馃槉
I do have pics for this job and will put together a how to in the next day or 2.
You WILL need to go to a salvage yard that has a SL for the necessary parts. You will need the A-Pillars, the tweeters, and the wiring.
It also requires the removal of the top of the dash and passenger airbag, to access the main wiring harness and to route the wires properly.
 
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Discussion Starter #23
You are correct about color combinations for reading the gauges, particularly during daylight, but I was talking about what colors are better for preserving night vision when driving at night and watching outside at the road ahead. Whitish gauges background is not the best for night vision. That's why for a scope reticle, if your concern is to preserve night vision, red is your friend, even though some other colors are better at bright daytime.
I do not disagree with you. This is personal preference. When I'm driving down the road and have 10 different guages to look at, I don't have the time to hunt for a red needle on a yellow background, like some of the work trucks have, or early Versa dashs.
 

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I do have pics for this job and will put together a how to in the next day or 2.
You WILL need to go to a salvage yard that has a SL for the necessary parts. You will need the A-Pillars, the tweeters, and the wiring.
It also requires the removal of the top of the dash and passenger airbag, to access the main wiring harness and to route the wires properly.
as you already know I put these on a couple days ago, they sound very good.

but let me ask you something: was you car prewired? thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter #26
as you already know I put these on a couple days ago, they sound very good.

but let me ask you something: was you car prewired? thanks :)
No it wasn't pre wired.
When I harvested that main harness, I took the tweeter wires and wired it as it would have come from the factory.
I also used that harness to wire up the steering wheel controls for the radio too.
 
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No it wasn't pre wired.
When I harvested that main harness, I took the tweeter wires and wired it as it would have come from the factory.
I also used that harness to wire up the steering wheel controls for the radio too.

my doubt is:
according to the service manual the tweeters don't have their own independent wiring from the head unit, at some point they tap into the front right and left speakers' wiring and then have their own brown connector. But it's the old 2/3 - 4/5 wires that power the front speakers. Nissan uses a parallel connections for the tweeters. That's what I did: I tapped into the existing right and left front speakers' wiring. Of course it works just fine.
Stock S speakers are rated 4 ohms, and SL speakers are rated 2 ohms.

Replacing the speakers with the SL speakers and having the tweeters in parallel connections won't overload the head unit a bit too much?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The H/U will be fine.
The splitter for the speakers and tweeters is on the main harness, which is under the top of the dash about at the left edge of the radio.


It is the white connector I cut the tape away from. If you look to the right, there is another one I didn't remove the tape from.
To open those up, you need 2 T pins, one on either side, then pull the cap off. There is a pin lock you open, then you can remove the pins/wire from the connector.
20200628_091808.jpg
 
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The H/U will be fine.
The splitter for the speakers and tweeters is on the main harness, which is under the top of the dash about at the left edge of the radio.


It is the white connector I cut the tape away from. If you look to the right, there is another one I didn't remove the tape from.
To open those up, you need 2 T pins, one on either side, then pull the cap off. There is a pin lock you open, then you can remove the pins/wire from the connector. View attachment 17651
Thanks!
You wire the tweeters to the main harness, did you just put the wires in the corresponding pins?
Anyway, I think it鈥檚 still a parallel connection between speakers and tweeters.
I was just thinking if there is any practical difference with the way I wired them (tapping into the speakers wire).
What do you think? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks!
You wire the tweeters to the main harness, did you just put the wires in the corresponding pins?
Anyway, I think it鈥檚 still a parallel connection between speakers and tweeters.
I was just thinking if there is any practical difference with the way I wired them (tapping into the speakers wire).
What do you think? :)
Yes. That connector is essentially just a elegant splice point. There is no practical difference in how you wired vs. the factory.
 
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thanks! If I get bored I'll redo the installation the factory way in the future :D
 
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