Hardware for control arm/ball joint and upper link replacment?

This is out of a 2008 versa manual. I think they are the same?

Are we talking about bolts for 12 & 13?
You should be able to purchase any OEM bolt from a local dealer. You just have to find the correct part number.
When I did my sub-frame on a 2011, I had to replace the lower bolt on #12. I got it from my local dealer.

The parts guys at the dealerships are usually top-notch, they know there stuff.

And related the Haynes manual casually says "to get the pivot bolt out you might have to lower the suspension cross member." Anyone have experience with this want to tell me if I will, or merely "might"?

Click to expand...

In-order to get the big horizontal bolt that holds the control arm to the sub-frame, you have to either lower the sub-frame a bit, or unbolt the engine mount on that side of the engine and jack the engine up a bit. I've heard it being done both ways.

Here's a video a guy talking about it.

Your two problem spots will be removing the lower bolt on #12 (it might be fused in the linkage) and removing the lower control's ball joint from the steering knuckle.

good luck!

So, two bits of good news, and one somewhat worrying uncertainty.

Good news number one, my parts arrived today, two days ahead of schedule, and that's awesome, since I have today off work! (well, I have tomorrow two, but if I spend Thanksgiving under the car, I'll likely be forced to sleep there by the family!)

Good news number two, my 6 speed manual gearbox version has nothing in the way of the forward bolt coming out there's literally nothing there except for a piece of the plastic splash guard. Clearly God drives a stick

Just to check, the bolt that causes the trouble normally is the one that is labeled "119 (12, 88)" in the diagram that scarecrowdjinn posted, right?

However, that bolt doesn't seem to have a nut on the back of it? It looks like it just screws into something captive in the subframe. Is that right? At first I thought someone had totally rounded it off trying to get it out, but looking at the other side, and the diagram, I think that it screws right into the subframe.

This might seem like a stupid question, but I'm lacking a socket for this bolt right now, and have to wait for my wife to come back to take me to buy more tools (yeah, I'm not normally into this level of car work!) So, I figured I'd ask while I'm waiting.

I have another question about that bolt. What do those numbers in the diagram mean? That is, what's the significance of "119 (12, 88)". I notice several bolts with that label, so I'm guessing it's a description, not an identity. But it would be great to actually know...?

Thanks again for everyone's help by the way, it's *really* a great relief to discover I'm not totally alone in my effort to fix this!

Thanks, I understand now!

I have succeeded in my replacement of the control arm. I didn't bother with the vertical in the end (though I might yet go back to it particularly if they tell me that they still can't do the wheel alignment for any reason). Two things I discovered:

- as I mentioned, with the six-speed manual, the troublesome horizontal pivot bolt is a non-issue. There's nothing in the way
- I got hold of the workshop manual that scarecrowdjinn had shown a picture from and discovered that the white cross on a black circle background (the one that looks like a philips/crosshead screw) that shows up in the image means "do not reuse this part". So, I'll be putting a new nut on that vertically oriented pivot bolt fairly soon

Other than that, guess what? All the experience I got on the left side will soon get practiced on the right side. I took it in for alignment after finishing the left side, and they told me the ball joint on the right side is shot too (just nowhere near as badly/obviously as the one on the left, for which the arm itself was also bent about 20 degrees!)

Anyway, many thanks again for all the help, encouragement, and explanations!