have you had any engine failures or issues - post here!
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Hey all, I have an ‘08 Versa and twice when I have been out of town for 5+ days it would not start. Cranks and revs but won’t start.
Have tried charging the battery though it was recently tested as OK. Not sure if battery-related. After a couple hours and a few attempts with giving it a lot of gas while starting, it will turn over and start. Any ideas what’s causing this and suggestions for a solution?
Have tried charging the battery though it was recently tested as OK. Not sure if battery-related. After a couple hours and a few attempts with giving it a lot of gas while starting, it will turn over and start. Any ideas what’s causing this and suggestions for a solution?
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171 Posts
Hello Diamond,
So it's hard to start, but once it's started it runs ok?
Is it hard to start every time? or is it occasionally?
So it's hard to start, but once it's started it runs ok?
Is it hard to start every time? or is it occasionally?
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*Edit: it was sitting while I was out of town
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Hey Scarecrow, only happened these 2 times when left sitting for several days. Once it’s started is totally fine.
OP says 5+ then 'several' days. If over say 25 then the battery has run down enough possibly to not crank fully and power the ignition and ECM at the same time. Cars absolutely cannot sit as long as they used to unstarted, the battery has to keep power to the ECM to keep the memory powered and the same for fancy radios and other modules now. You are asking for trouble past 2 weeks sitting.
Incidentally, letting them sit is also now the fastest way to kill batteries, I used to sell them and if you let that go on you can pretty much count on the battery not making its' full life.
As well, the time element is what also allows the ethanol in fuel now to pull water into it and another problem they don't tell you about.
Uh, 'revs' is not an accurate word in the use there, the engine can only rev if it is already running. Starters don't rev.
Incidentally, letting them sit is also now the fastest way to kill batteries, I used to sell them and if you let that go on you can pretty much count on the battery not making its' full life.
As well, the time element is what also allows the ethanol in fuel now to pull water into it and another problem they don't tell you about.
Uh, 'revs' is not an accurate word in the use there, the engine can only rev if it is already running. Starters don't rev.
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688 Posts
When I off for more than a week, I usually disconnect battery's negative terminal. Then I have to reset a clock and radio, but it is nothing compare with a pleasure of having my car start right away. Too lazy to get a trickle charger...
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171 Posts
Dimonnd I would't do anything at this point unless it starts giving you problems during your everyday drives.
A sitting car can weaken the battery, especially if the battery is old.
Next time you let the car sit for a few days, do the following as an experiment.
1) If possible, use a multi-meter and get the volts off the battery before attempting to start the car. Hopefully it's 12 volts or above.
2) When you go to start the car after it's been sitting, try cycling the key a 3-4 times before attempting to start it. Just to make sure the fuel system is primed.
*In case you or someone else reading does not know what cycling the key means, see below *
Cycling the key means turning the key from the off position, to the "run" position and back to the off position. The "run" position is the last key potion right before you start the car.
So....in your case,
a) insert the key
b) next, click the key forward 1 position, this should turn on your radio and unlock your steering wheel.
c) Then click the key forward again 1 more position. This should activate all the lights on your instrument cluster (also known as the Run position).
d) Then, click the key all the way backwards to the off or beginning position.
e) repeat steps b, c, and d two or three more times.
Your goal is not to start the car during key cycling. It's to make sure the fuel pump has fully primed the system.
Give us an update if you let the car sit again, or if you start to have the problem more frequently.
A sitting car can weaken the battery, especially if the battery is old.
Next time you let the car sit for a few days, do the following as an experiment.
1) If possible, use a multi-meter and get the volts off the battery before attempting to start the car. Hopefully it's 12 volts or above.
2) When you go to start the car after it's been sitting, try cycling the key a 3-4 times before attempting to start it. Just to make sure the fuel system is primed.
*In case you or someone else reading does not know what cycling the key means, see below *
Cycling the key means turning the key from the off position, to the "run" position and back to the off position. The "run" position is the last key potion right before you start the car.
So....in your case,
a) insert the key
b) next, click the key forward 1 position, this should turn on your radio and unlock your steering wheel.
c) Then click the key forward again 1 more position. This should activate all the lights on your instrument cluster (also known as the Run position).
d) Then, click the key all the way backwards to the off or beginning position.
e) repeat steps b, c, and d two or three more times.
Your goal is not to start the car during key cycling. It's to make sure the fuel pump has fully primed the system.
Give us an update if you let the car sit again, or if you start to have the problem more frequently.
'When I off for more than a week, I usually disconnect battery's negative terminal.'
Likewise, it will extend battery life like forever. Can be a problem though on newer cars that lose memory to things to have to go through more involved relearn processes like TB idle learning or even transmission relearning. What you gotta do though.
I should point out that 'cycling' the key off as in the post above requires that once the key goes to on that you leave it there for at least two seconds, or how long the fuel pump commonly primes for. They spin up for a second or two and then stop. If you cut off before that you aren't priming anything.
And learn to 'read' that initial spinup as to the quality of it, it will often tell you what kind of shape the pump is in and any problems can show up there before the car comes down not running if you pay attention. I've caught several bad pumps just by listening to that, but you need to hear what is normal before you can tell what is not. You can commonly tell when the pump spins too fast that there is no fuel in tank too.
Likewise, it will extend battery life like forever. Can be a problem though on newer cars that lose memory to things to have to go through more involved relearn processes like TB idle learning or even transmission relearning. What you gotta do though.
I should point out that 'cycling' the key off as in the post above requires that once the key goes to on that you leave it there for at least two seconds, or how long the fuel pump commonly primes for. They spin up for a second or two and then stop. If you cut off before that you aren't priming anything.
And learn to 'read' that initial spinup as to the quality of it, it will often tell you what kind of shape the pump is in and any problems can show up there before the car comes down not running if you pay attention. I've caught several bad pumps just by listening to that, but you need to hear what is normal before you can tell what is not. You can commonly tell when the pump spins too fast that there is no fuel in tank too.
Another helpful thing to know is battery volts that are useful. After testing hundreds of cars while in parts and before after years of work, I came to the conclusion that any car that measures at 12.2 volts or less is likely to give trouble starting, if not then then really quick. I rate all batteries at a 12.3 volt minimum as being good and of course anything higher is better. Up to maybe in a few cases 12.85 or so volt (new, what they read in the lab). Anything past that is surface voltage that just has not sunk into the plates yet due to the time element to do that, the car would have been just shut off. That can be up to 13.5 volts but is NOT real, it WILL disappear. Talking about a battery sitting in car and not being used or charged.
So................12.3-12.8 volts and good to go. That last number is killer, the car will NOT start at 12.0 volts in 90% of the cars out there and 11.99 is considered a dead battery by battery associations.
So................12.3-12.8 volts and good to go. That last number is killer, the car will NOT start at 12.0 volts in 90% of the cars out there and 11.99 is considered a dead battery by battery associations.
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Thanks guys. I am def not a car buff, just a girl with a Versa (so thanks for breaking it all down for me). Now I know what to check up on for next time!
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12 Posts
So it's all 1.8L problems? I'm guessing the 1.6 is ok?
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15 Posts
2014 nissan versa 1.6L
Replaced at 20k miles for lower end knocking. Cyl 3 rod bearing
Replaced at 30k miles for upper end ticking. Valve train problems (cam phasing issues)
Replacing again at 140k miles. Low compression on cyl 3 and 4. Possible cracked head. High oil consumption. Low power. Will post results once I tear the old motor down.
Replaced at 20k miles for lower end knocking. Cyl 3 rod bearing
Replaced at 30k miles for upper end ticking. Valve train problems (cam phasing issues)
Replacing again at 140k miles. Low compression on cyl 3 and 4. Possible cracked head. High oil consumption. Low power. Will post results once I tear the old motor down.
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10 Posts
Hi everyone I hope someone can help me out with this I have a 2014 Nissan Versa Note 1.6 S plus CVT with 166+ miles on it. I have kept it up to date with all of its oil change motor and transmission, the car failure started after I got a check engine light for a bad M.A.F sensor; making a long story short I have ended up changing spark plugs, coils, O2 sensors, getting the fuel injectors cleaned.
This is my current issue, the car when it gets to 2-3rpms it starts to idle really rough and jerking and also if I start going downhill it starts to idle and jerking roughly as well even If I do have my foot on the gas pedal. Can this be a transmission issue? I have not gotten any other check engine light on after I corrected the first issue with the mass flow sensor.
This is my current issue, the car when it gets to 2-3rpms it starts to idle really rough and jerking and also if I start going downhill it starts to idle and jerking roughly as well even If I do have my foot on the gas pedal. Can this be a transmission issue? I have not gotten any other check engine light on after I corrected the first issue with the mass flow sensor.
I know with my 2012 Versa sedan with a CVT that just before it was out of warranty, I would be stopped at a light, and the car would jerk prior to releasing the break pedal. It felt as if you had the emergency brake set, and then released it. Took it to the dealership, and it ended up being the CVT transmission, which was replaced with an entire "new" transmission at no cost. The dealership took about 20 minutes to diagnose the issue, and Nissans CVTs have one of the worst track record in the industry. Usually with the CVTs, the dealership will be instructed to replace the entire transmission rather than try and make the repair on the one in the car. Hope this is not the case with your vehicle.
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29 Posts
I have only had the car do a "wheelie" from a dead stop at a stop light while waiting for the left turn signal to turn. I went and the front end lifted upward. It was during work hours. The mechanics laughed at me since they had no idea how to fix it.
The other times were the automatic braking collision system breaks down and activates randomly. There is some type of smoke that happens after it comes on. I think its smell from the brakes. The mechanics say its normal every day use.
The electrical power goes out frequently and the mechanics don't seem to fix it.
The other times were the automatic braking collision system breaks down and activates randomly. There is some type of smoke that happens after it comes on. I think its smell from the brakes. The mechanics say its normal every day use.
The electrical power goes out frequently and the mechanics don't seem to fix it.
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29 Posts
I get a check engine light. The codes I know of involve the mass air flow sensor, throttle body, and coolant temperature. Also, once the lane departure and safety feature lights go on, the car is not held down going sluggish and drives normally.
The fuel never fills up all the time. Its always lower than full from 150 miles to 270 to 310 to 425. The most it filled up was 485 miles which it rarely reaches. It could be 150 miles at $30 or 310 miles at $30.
The fuel never fills up all the time. Its always lower than full from 150 miles to 270 to 310 to 425. The most it filled up was 485 miles which it rarely reaches. It could be 150 miles at $30 or 310 miles at $30.
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My gf's 2012 versa hatchback with 130k miles needs a head job so she's canning it, and I'm using it for parts for my 2010 versa hatchback with 245k miles and it's still going strong 
these cars are both 1.8L btw
these cars are both 1.8L btw
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