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I somewhat disagree with the thoughts on driving around with a CEL on but not checked. The engine can be slightly rich and poisoning the cat little by little and the owner thinks it's running perfect. Any cat damage there is pretty much permanent, the cat does not renew itself to be 100% again. Meaning a week or more like that can take years off of them later.

As well, if the owner disregards that light, then likely that mindset is hardlinked into other things like missing a whole lot more than that. After years of being around customers you realize pretty quick a GREAT number of them really cannot tell you what good driveability even is, the engines can be missing and they think they are running fine. BTDT hundreds of times.

How about ignore the light and in the next few minutes the engine burns to the ground because in ignoring the light the temperature gauge never looked at either. Blew a hose, temp runs gauge up, light comes on and we keep on driving, one new engine or car coming up. Can't count the times I've seen that either. Ignoring the CEL deeper ingrains that dangerous thinking. Why should I worry? The thinking then goes to oil light next, it's a light just like the other one right? Yes indeedy, it IS. Enjoy walking home tonight.

What about an engine with say variable valve timing and the CEL comes on for cam timing going off slightly and ignore light to have it go off even further and then bend valves to bring car down? Many won't catch the slight difference if any in running at first and not until close to the blowup. Too late, you had your chance............

Many codes now are HIGHLY damped to not show up at all except in only the worst of cases, it saves millions on fake warranty issues. No way do they show up at the first instance, commonly the software is now written to ignore any errant behavior until a certain time or number of bad events has passed. Meaning when the light comes on the problem may well have already been present for awhile.

That light is telling you something. It may be nothing or little to nothing but after a long stint reading CELs for people that had some of the codes telling of what ultimately proved out to be the end of a car..........well, I wouldn't do it.

But then I fix 100% of all my stuff and not an issue with me. I check for codes QUICK, then do what needs to be done if anything.

We'll see if the IPDM turns out to be unserviceable, they said the same thing about the Ford CCRMs and IRCMs and I gutted relays out of those to patch in cheap $5 relays and cars back up and running for years for pennies. Those modules cost around $250 back in the day and made out of unobtanium. I do the same ultra cheap repairs in 50 other places if not more.

I hate the whole multiple integrated unitized part thing but if anything it has made rebuilding many of the units at home for literally nothing easier than the hundreds they get now for what you commonly fix with a very cheap single part. Like alternators, I can fix them for commonly $40 and often have at way less than that, as little as 30 cents for solder or sandpaper to refresh contact points to bring a $200 alt back to life for years more.
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