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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Weapon-R Secret Intake

Hey guys I have a question about installing an SRI on my 2011 hatch. This is what I purchased, and i'm wondering what modifications I'll have to make. I watched a few videos on how to install, but I still have a few questions because my intake doesn't seem to have all the needed holes/plugs.

Watching this video, the piece circled on the left is removed and never replaced. What is it? Also, my new intake doesn't have a place to plugin the piece circled on the right.


Am I going to have to cut a hole and mount it that way?
 

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Things aren't matching up because you purchased a universal kit. It might be a lot easier for you to just get one that's make for the Versa.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I know, I know. I'm just looking for a little better sound and the HP / MPG gains are minimal so I opted for a cheap-o universal kit. I'm more of a DIY guy anywyay so I don't mind modifications to make it usable. I work nights too, so I'm always happy to have something to work on while the wife is at work and kids are at school.

This morning I found this thread over on the NicoClub forums which is exactly what I needed for the MAF problem. However, I'm still unclear what the left piece is, but I'm assuming that is where I plug in the other end of the blue hosing that comes with my kit?
 

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1. Buy 5 feet of 2.5" stainless 16 gauge exhaust pipe (this diameter is not big enough of a jump to affect driveability due to the MAF calibration being off due to diameter deviation from stock which is 2 3/8")
2. Buy 2 45 degree silicone elbows in appropriate diameter for exhaust pipe, and TB diameter
3. Make MAF box/spacer/mount out of 2" flat stock steel or aluminum, space MAF out of air stream, only last 3/4" of the sensor needs to be placed in the air stream to work correctly, this maximizes your gains because it increases the cross sectional area of the pipe that is empty, and creates less turbulence
4. Place sensor in box itself, the side of the sensor with the opening faces away from TB, mark holes, drill, and tap to accept factory screws
5. Fasten box to a section of piping you made (polyurethane adhesive, JB Weld, welding) there should be at least 4" in either direction of straight uninterrupted (no bends or other things that disrupt linear airflow) pipe for the MAF to deliver the most accurate signal to PCM
6. Profit?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I finally recieved my SRI in the mail over two weeks late. After doing a quick mock-up and visual fitting, it looks like I'm either going to have to relocate my battery or my fuse box. Does anyone have words of wisdom to share with either of these? Which would be easier? And do you have suggestions where to relocate them to?
 

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Its junk.

Get rid of it.

I am not saying that to be a dick, but back when I started modifying cars people told me that all the time about eBay and no name products. Listen, some are just fine but when modifying a vehicle. (I'm not sure how old you are) but assuming you are on the younger side the cheap stuff is intriguing because you can afford it, add a mod to your car, tell friends you've modified it, and it looks cool.

Every modification you purchase needs to go through a simple check list:
Does the product negatively affect the longevity of my vehicle or my safety?
- If the answer is Yes, then DON'T buy it.

I can't tell you how many times I ignored this advice and then had to spend even more money to buy an actual quality product. You're losing out on money and its costing you not only more money, but more time and headaches to make the junk fit.


This product FILTERS particulates, dust, dirt, and debris and is your engines ONLY line of defense. These awful, see through, no name filters aren't worth a damn and will allow contaminates to get in your motor. Those contaminates go right into the oil and if they get caught by the oil filter, they still have had time to cause wear and tear.


Seriously, go to ebay, get a generic intake pipe that actually fits, and then get a GOOD filter from AEM or K&N. Boom, no modifying, it fits, and you have a good filter to protect your motor.


I don't mean to be rude, but if you're asking how to install an intake I would doubt you have the capability to relocate the fuse box or battery. Again, I dont mean to be rude....but just buy the cheapest intake pipe that fits, a good air filter, and be done with it.

Otherwise you're going to spend the same amount of money as a decent intake in order to go get wiring to relocate your battery, then you have to buy a battery box because that is a non-sealed battery and could kill you from escaping vapors (did you know that?), and then youll have to take trim pieces apart, to route the power cable, find a good ground (Which if isnt done properly will cause electrical headaches), and whatnot.
 

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So I finally recieved my SRI in the mail over two weeks late. After doing a quick mock-up and visual fitting, it looks like I'm either going to have to relocate my battery or my fuse box. Does anyone have words of wisdom to share with either of these? Which would be easier? And do you have suggestions where to relocate them to?


Dude, speaking of safety, you really need to get those thin gauge wires in a loom. That is daaaaanger.
 

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Ah, i already gave you directions on how to make your own intake, but, i did relocate my battery to create that needed space. Nobody seems to have read that... but anyways. Use an AEM Dryflow filter, conventional dry filters are the best choice. Oiled fabric filters filter less, and aren't really truly washable, i don't care what anyone says. Man, looking at a factory engine bay is scary, look at all that junk that i eliminated with a full wire tuck.. holy shit. My bay looks HUGE now compared to a stock Versa!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Ah, i already gave you directions on how to make your own intake, but, i did relocate my battery to create that needed space. Nobody seems to have read that... but anyways. Use an AEM Dryflow filter, conventional dry filters are the best choice. Oiled fabric filters filter less, and aren't really truly washable, i don't care what anyone says. Man, looking at a factory engine bay is scary, look at all that junk that i eliminated with a full wire tuck.. holy shit. My bay looks HUGE now compared to a stock Versa!
I do plan on getting a better filter very soon. Thanks for the tip about dry filters, I'll keep that in mind when shopping! Is there a thread in the forums showing pics of you wire tuck?

Dude, speaking of safety, you really need to get those thin gauge wires in a loom. That is daaaaanger.
So. Very. True. I have a kit ordered with things like shrink wrap tubing, T connectors, male/female connectors. Should be here between now and next Tuesday.

Its junk.

Get rid of it.

I am not saying that to be a dick, but back when I started modifying cars people told me that all the time about eBay and no name products. Listen, some are just fine but when modifying a vehicle. (I'm not sure how old you are) but assuming you are on the younger side the cheap stuff is intriguing because you can afford it, add a mod to your car, tell friends you've modified it, and it looks cool.

Every modification you purchase needs to go through a simple check list:
Does the product negatively affect the longevity of my vehicle or my safety?
- If the answer is Yes, then DON'T buy it.

I can't tell you how many times I ignored this advice and then had to spend even more money to buy an actual quality product. You're losing out on money and its costing you not only more money, but more time and headaches to make the junk fit.


This product FILTERS particulates, dust, dirt, and debris and is your engines ONLY line of defense. These awful, see through, no name filters aren't worth a damn and will allow contaminates to get in your motor. Those contaminates go right into the oil and if they get caught by the oil filter, they still have had time to cause wear and tear.


Seriously, go to ebay, get a generic intake pipe that actually fits, and then get a GOOD filter from AEM or K&N. Boom, no modifying, it fits, and you have a good filter to protect your motor.


I don't mean to be rude, but if you're asking how to install an intake I would doubt you have the capability to relocate the fuse box or battery. Again, I dont mean to be rude....but just buy the cheapest intake pipe that fits, a good air filter, and be done with it.

Otherwise you're going to spend the same amount of money as a decent intake in order to go get wiring to relocate your battery, then you have to buy a battery box because that is a non-sealed battery and could kill you from escaping vapors (did you know that?), and then youll have to take trim pieces apart, to route the power cable, find a good ground (Which if isnt done properly will cause electrical headaches), and whatnot.
Normally I would agree with you about the cheap-o Ebay items. Most of the time they just aren't worth their weight in bull$#!t. But honestly, what do I have to gain from purchasing a $150+ intake? Realistically the only difference is a better filter, a MAF adapter, and maybe a branding sticker. I don't mind putting in a little work to get the end result I'm looking for, and if I can spend $15 (Due to the long shipping delay I received a full refund AND got to keep the item when it finally showed up) on a cheap-o base platform plus $50 for a good filter and $35-40 on a MAF adapter then my total is still around the $100 mark. I'm not ancient yet, but I'm not what most would consider young either. I'm actually 34 years old, and I would enjoy doing some work myself more than I would buying a fully premade product. I try to get my hands dirty every chance I get when doing a mod or servicing the car, and if I still can't do it after trying a few times on my own then I will seek professional help or a fully made product. As far as the battery or fuse box relocation, I am fully confident that I can do the job on my own. I was only asking if anyone had words of wisdom to share before I started. The purpose of these forums is to ask questions and learn from others mistakes isn't it? Just because it's my first time trying to DIY a specific project doesn't mean I am incapable.
 

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i dont see ANY filter out there giving this little engine ANY better performance. PERIOD. on these little engines that are already low emissions its a waste of money. put that money towards stereo or rims or something that will actually be a benefit to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cutting mount hole for MAF today.


To answer your question. The battery is way easier to move than the fuse box.
I'm assuming it would be as easy as extending the -/+ cables to the rear hatch area? That would probably be the only reasonable place to relocate the battery.

Dude, speaking of safety, you really need to get those thin gauge wires in a loom. That is daaaaanger.
Hooray for safety!
 

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You just extend the 12+ wire to the hatch. You can ground to the chassis in the rear. You need to install a high amp fuse under the good before the wire goes through the firewall. You will also need a fuse within 18" of the battery.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
 

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You also need to vent the battery to the outside of the car if its a normal lead acid battery. Its easiest to buy a battery box at an auto parts store. It gives you a way to mount the battery as well as a vent.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I'm still in shock, but somehow this all worked out for me! The pipe I had didn't work because my brake fluid reservoir was in the way and my pipe couldn't bend around it, so I ended up using the stock piece that bent around it and just connected my intake from there. Cutting the MAF sensor hole wasn't very hard. I even got it to fit nicely (very snug, but not smashed) without moving my battery or the fuse box! It took almost 4 days of tinkering to make it all work without triggering any CELs and resetting the ECU manually without an ODB scan tool is a PITA, but in the end I am victorious. And the best part of it all........ total cost after refund and still getting to keep the item....... $7.62 for some silicone sealant to keep the MAF sensor air tight. The rest of the stuff I already had laying around like my Dremel tool.



 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I've run into an issue and I don't know what else to try. Everything ran fine for two days, then all of a sudden I keep getting CELs that say "Bank 1 Lean". I thought maybe I had a vacuum leak somewhere so I tightened all my connections and tested the seals with some WD-40, which didn't show any signs of a leak. Then I went and bought a can of MAF Cleaner and cleaned my MAF really good, but I am still getting the "Bank 1 Lean" codes. The CEL doesn't trigger immediately after I reset my ECU and turn the car on. Sometimes it may be 5 minutes after I leave the driveway, sometimes it may be 45 minutes. Does anyone have another suggestion to try? I want to rule out all possible options before I assume my MAF is bad and needs replaced.
 

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I would suggest trying to put it pack in the original factory configuration and see if the light stays on. If it stays on then I would start looking at the sensor, maybe it got some silicone in it that the cleaner can't remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This morning I reinstalled the factory setup, and even after manually resetting the ECU I was still getting the CEL after a short time of driving. I called a few places asking what they would charge me to diagnose the problem and 3 of the 4 I called just threw numbers at me anywhere from $50 - $150 just to find the problem. But luckily, the 4th place I called was able to help me over the phone at no charge!

-=-= Achievement Get : Dodged Another Bullet =-=-

This whole time I have been under the impression that when I manually reset my ECU (wait 3 secs, press gas 5 times, etc, etc) I was clearing the code. The guy suggested clearing the code manually, then disconnecting my battery for 10 minutes and give it another try. Voila! I drove to renew tags at the DMV, went to eat lunch with the wifey, gave bro-in-law a ride to work, and made it all the way back home without a single CEL to be seen. Roughly a 35-40 mile drive today, and before I couldn't even get 2-3 miles without a CEL.

I'll likely be giving the SRI another shot this weekend now that I know my MAF isn't damaged. I already miss that sound.

Thanks to everyone who has helped me get things this far!
 
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