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Hello all. Recently acquired a '07 SL hatchback for a commuter. I drive about 85 miles a day commuting, nearly all interstate. I got the '07 from a family member for basically free to replace an old Jetta I used to commute with before. The versa had around 115k miles when I acquired it. So far I'm seriously not impressed. I've done a ton of repairs on this thing, both cosmetic and maintenance issues... Pathetic how the gas mileage is worse than my old Jetta. Maybe you guys can steer me how to improve it? I have the cvt trans. Maybe that's not conducive to good mpg? Really, motor wise, I've only just put in synthetic oil and a K&N air filter. When I first got this versa, it had a horrible shake when applying the brakes. Naturally, I ordered new pads and rotors. Then I noticed the subframe bushings were shot; replaced those. Also put on 4 new tires and had the wheels balanced. After replacing these, the car then developed a strong left pull in the steering. I took it in for an alignment. They showed me the printout and said its straight as an arrow, yet the left pull still remains. Also, at cruising speed, after driving about 15-20 miles, the car suddenly develops a shake, seemingly out of nowhere. Can't figure it out. Are these common problems with high mileage versas? Going to replace the worn out struts next, any recommendations?
 

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Before you spend any more money take it to a Nissan Dealer (I know they are a rip off) but they are the only ones that can check out the CVT. If it's going bad you are looking at a $3,000 bill.

CVT gas mileage should run at least 36 mpg and more like 40.
 

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Are the tires oem size and wheels? What psi in the tires? Is the check engine light on? Does it light up at start to assure it wasnt taped over or bulb removed?
 

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Also put on 4 new tires and had the wheels balanced. After replacing these, the car then developed a strong left pull in the steering. I took it in for an alignment. They showed me the printout and said its straight as an arrow, yet the left pull still remains.
Make sure tire pressure is equal for both tires mounted on the same axle. Swap 2 front tires. If pulls to other side, it is tires (cord damaged etc.). Also check rear tires in the same manner. If tires are culprits (and I bet they are), go to the place where you bought your tires, and state your case.

If they blame your alignment, tell them about swapping right and left tires. Been there, done that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks for the replys guys... I've never had a CVT trans before, so I'm not too read-up on them. My wife has the cvt in her Infiniti QX60 and its been trouble free for over 80k miles. I'll look into the scanner, thanks TechGuy8! If the cvt is shot, would a manual trans swap be cheaper than a new cvt? I'm not looking to spend $3k to keep this thing going. And I'm averaging 28-29 mpg almost completely interstate highway driving at 70-75mph. Is this too low for that kind of driving? Cobb, stock oem wheels and tire size. Brand new Firestone all season tires. 35 psi all the way around. Balanced when put on. No check engine light, and yes it lights up when started. I swapped the two front wheels today and took a short test drive. Still pulls to the left. I'm thinking I'll take it somewhere else for an alignment. Sucks how much I spent in the first place for one though.
 

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Make sure to get a 4 wheel as the rear axle stubs can be bent and shimmed to correct that. The used honda odyssey I purchased all 4 wheels were pointed in a different direction. 2 alignments later it was fixed, but sadly I still got 18 mpg.
 

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I swapped the two front wheels today and took a short test drive. Still pulls to the left. I'm thinking I'll take it somewhere else for an alignment.
How in the world it was driving straight before tires change and pulls left after that, and it is an alignment? If I were you, I would swap remaining 2 rear wheels and see.
 

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Could be internal tire damage and a tire on the rear fixed axle was put on the front so it pulls to that side.

Could be car was lifted improperly and bent lower control arm or tie rod end.

Could be car was curbed while at shop or during test drive and screwed up alignment.

My best driving issue to date was a guy who when the car was cold in the winter would have shimmys and then quit. Turned out water was in the tire and wheel area and would freeze causing the tire to be off balance. As he drove it melted and it settled down. :nerd:
 
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