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Hi All! Nissan Newb Here!

A couple threads on here were similar, but I didn't want to get scolded for bumping a threat.

Here’s the gist: I live in the Nevada desert and commute in my 2018 Nissan Versa 90 miles each way per day. Of that 90 miles, about 60 of them have a speed limit of 80 MPH. This car doesn’t seem to struggle with 80, but it is working very hard – about 4,000 RPM and with the radio off you can really hear the engine.

My question is does this engine mind spinning that fast for that long every day? Does anyone have a similar situation and, if so, how many miles have you been able to put on your Versa without killing it? I try and keep cars for this commute 4 – 5 years, which is 200 – 250,000 miles. Can she take it that long and hard? : D Rather than slow down like a puss, I'm thinking at least synthetic oil to hold up to that amount of friction.

The 80 MPH speed limit is new – it use to be only 70. The last cars I had doing the drive were a Saturn and an Accord. Both did 300,000 miles flawlessly, but both those cars were running at just 2,300 RPM and the Versa is running nearly double that.

Oh! And it’s the 5-speed manual super base model with no mods. (Though I did buy a ‘Black Edition” emblem in matching font – to make her special. : D)
 

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Welcome aboard.

Most eco boxes run higher rpms. My geo metro was the same, 4 grand for 80 mph if not 4500. I never had any problems.

I think they say at first to vary the speed to help break in the engine, but I think Nissan does a good job of doing that before hand.
 

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Forgot to ask where you got your emblem? Was thinking I'd like a matching "VICE" emblem to put over the VERSA emblem.
 

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I switched to synthetic at 3000 miles in my 17s for the same consern. My daughter bought hers a few weeks before I bought mine and she's been running dinosaur juice so we'll see long-term.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the responses, guys! I appreciate it. I like to drive a car until it's wheels fall off, but I like to keep those wheels on as long as possible. I don't want to kill this thing in a year.

As far as custom emblems, there is an online company called Emblemart.com (I hope plugging websites here is OK) They've always done right by me and can match existing fonts and sizes perfectly. VICE VERSA is awesome!

Someone asked me at the gas station what a "Black Edition" Versa was. "That means it's painted black," I told him. "Oh, that's it?" "Yea. They also make a White Edition, Red Edition, Silver Edition..."

The Accord was an Accord LX Abarth (Before Abarth was known here) and the Saturn was an SCII Superleggera. >:D
 

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Ive had bad luck with engines with a honda going 104 thousand purchased new, fed synthetic oil and driven for 9 years. Ive decided if it lasts when the V turns 100k miles Ill just park and sell it and get another car. I had a scion with about 47 thousand before it started to act up. Since it was a stick shift dealer blamed me for missing a gear, so I went else where and traded it in.

From what Ive read seems these little nissan engines like the yellow jug of penzoil conventional oil every 3500-5 thousand miles. Thats what Im going with. Dealer threw in free oil changes for life, so thats there problem. >:D
 

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Im assuming since you are worried about rpms you got a stick shift? Try running higher octane fuel. You will notice a bit more umph if you got stop n go traffic to deal with.

Do they still require you to shift to 3rd gear to reach 60? That kills the 0-60 time on the 16 models.
 

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Im assuming since you are worried about rpms you got a stick shift? Try running higher octane fuel. You will notice a bit more umph if you got stop n go traffic to deal with.

Do they still require you to shift to 3rd gear to reach 60? That kills the 0-60 time on the 16 models.
?
Octane has nothing to do with power. It simply is the resistance to knock. The only vehicles which can tell what octane is in the vehicle are E85 capable vehicles (E85 actually runs cooler), high performance $$$$ vehicles, and customs tune. Even then, the vehicle usually has to be "notified" via an input by the driver. Using anything more than what Nissan recommends is a complete was of money and will have absolutely zero impact on MPG or power.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It is a stick shift, but octane won't lower RPM's, only gearing will. And I'm not re-gearing a $10,000 commuter! : ) I'll run higher octane fuel when it's regularly very hot in the summer - it'll get to 115+ here - but other than that it's regular fuel, and it's only to prevent knocking incase we reach the limits of whatever VVT or timing advance the car handle.

You do still have to shift into third to get to 60, but I don't know any 4 banger economy car that can hit 60 in 2nd. Fortunately, the good low-end torque of this little 1.6 lets me shift to 3rd at 15 or 20 - so you can be in 1 gear while progressing down the onramp.
 

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No, no, no, no. I did not say using higher octane will make MORE POWER. No more than stickers, wings, led or hid lamps, 5% window tint, etc.

I said using higher octane fuel will give you more umph for the stick guys. The cvt and automatic will pussy out and increase the gearing to lower the load on the engine and the rpms climb as the going gets tough. For the stick guys the engine rolls back and retards timing. When you use the higher octane stuff and if you question me next time you are empty put a few gallons of 89 or 91 in your take and go for a spin. The effect will be immediate. The engine sounds different, you do not have to feather the clutch when you release it and you feel like you are getting pushed back into the seat harder.

Im usually in 5th by 35 mph myself. Some 4 speeds Ive had can do 60 in 2nd, but then you get a sitaution where 2nd is too low and 3rd is too high elsewhere along the power band. I guess if the rev limit was higher you could do a 1-2 0-60, but I usually shift at 5 grand if not sooner unless a mustang is beside me. >:D
 

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No, no, no, no. I did not say using higher octane will make MORE POWER. No more than stickers, wings, led or hid lamps, 5% window tint, etc.

I said using higher octane fuel will give you more umph for the stick guys. The cvt and automatic will pussy out and increase the gearing to lower the load on the engine and the rpms climb as the going gets tough. For the stick guys the engine rolls back and retards timing. When you use the higher octane stuff and if you question me next time you are empty put a few gallons of 89 or 91 in your take and go for a spin. The effect will be immediate. The engine sounds different, you do not have to feather the clutch when you release it and you feel like you are getting pushed back into the seat harder.

Im usually in 5th by 35 mph myself. Some 4 speeds Ive had can do 60 in 2nd, but then you get a sitaution where 2nd is too low and 3rd is too high elsewhere along the power band. I guess if the rev limit was higher you could do a 1-2 0-60, but I usually shift at 5 grand if not sooner unless a mustang is beside me. >:D
What you are describing sounds exactly like more power. Like I said before, Octane is simply the resistance to knock. It doesn't and will not do anything else and in no way, shape or form, will it provide any sort of difference on a vehicle that requires less octane than what is in it. Complete waste of money and just sounds like a placebo effect! I guarantee you that the Versa has absolutely no way of knowing what octane is in the fuel and therefore wont change a single thing whatsoever. If the O2 sensors think the vehicle is running lean due to insufficient fuel, then yes it will retard the timing to prevent engine damage but that has nothing to do with octane.

If you still don't believe me, go to your local parts store and buy some Octane booster, put it in your vehicle, and see if you notice a difference. Again, there isn't any sort of octane sensor in the Versa.
 

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Well, I guess in a way you can say MORE POWER. I seriously doubt you get the same from the car that it got on the dyno. Many cases even dyno pulls vary and they do several and take an average. Even then if its an engine dyno its not with the alternator, ac compressor, etc, etc, under the same load as in the vehicle. As is turning off the ac gives MORE POWER, however you will never exceed the design limits unless you start to force feed it air.

Now if you use the cheapest fuel which is suppose to be 87 octane and the engine retards the hell out of the engine I hope you would feel a difference with 89 or 91. No, 93 or higher you start to loose throttle response.

Why do I need to buy octane booster when I can buy it already added to my fuel for pennies on the dollar?

Oh, if you do have a cvt you will notice it doesnt rev as high as before when you throttle up to accelerate. Dont believe me, try a few gallons next time you need a fill up. :smile
 

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Well, I guess in a way you can say MORE POWER. I seriously doubt you get the same from the car that it got on the dyno. Many cases even dyno pulls vary and they do several and take an average. Even then if its an engine dyno its not with the alternator, ac compressor, etc, etc, under the same load as in the vehicle. As is turning off the ac gives MORE POWER, however you will never exceed the design limits unless you start to force feed it air.

Now if you use the cheapest fuel which is suppose to be 87 octane and the engine retards the hell out of the engine I hope you would feel a difference with 89 or 91. No, 93 or higher you start to loose throttle response.

Why do I need to buy octane booster when I can buy it already added to my fuel for pennies on the dollar?

Oh, if you do have a cvt you will notice it doesnt rev as high as before when you throttle up to accelerate. Dont believe me, try a few gallons next time you need a fill up. :smile
lol Broski! Again, octane has nothing to do with power. A Versa will not retard or advance timing due to using a different octane. If you run 93 and I run 87 the timing will be the EXACT same (unless there is a problem w/ fuel to air ratio). It is a waste of money! And besides, why would 89 or 91 make the car run "better" but then 93 cause it to lose throttle response? Makes no sense if octane were to actually affect anything.
 

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My vehicles must be screwed up then. Have you ever monitored the timing, load and other sensors that a scan gauge 2 monitors?

Well, I have one I use to read, clear codes and to read other sensors the dash does not have a gauge to display. My honda was famous for retarding to hell even at idle and worse when under load. I also noticed that even with my cvt if I use manual mode which held it in a ratio as I floored it it went retarded. I then did what I said, never time the fuel was low I pumped a few gallons of 89 and tried it. Immediately I notice the timing was higher. This was even more noticeable in 90+ degree weather.

So, naturally I plugged in the sg2 to my other vehicles and found the same thing. By pumping a few gallons if you dont like and do not see a change you can just fill up with regular which would reduce the octane and you are only out pennies on the dollar vs the cost of a whole bottle of octane booster that requires a full tank.

Me, I notice both a difference in my stick and cvt. The cvt doesnt rev as much like going over over passes with cruse control on or rev to rev line on higher octane fuel.

Now, have I tested the fuel to make sure my 87 is 87 or 89 is 89? No, dont know how. :grin
 

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My vehicles must be screwed up then. Have you ever monitored the timing, load and other sensors that a scan gauge 2 monitors?

Well, I have one I use to read, clear codes and to read other sensors the dash does not have a gauge to display. My honda was famous for retarding to hell even at idle and worse when under load. I also noticed that even with my cvt if I use manual mode which held it in a ratio as I floored it it went retarded. I then did what I said, never time the fuel was low I pumped a few gallons of 89 and tried it. Immediately I notice the timing was higher. This was even more noticeable in 90+ degree weather.

So, naturally I plugged in the sg2 to my other vehicles and found the same thing. By pumping a few gallons if you dont like and do not see a change you can just fill up with regular which would reduce the octane and you are only out pennies on the dollar vs the cost of a whole bottle of octane booster that requires a full tank.

Me, I notice both a difference in my stick and cvt. The cvt doesnt rev as much like going over over passes with cruse control on or rev to rev line on higher octane fuel.

Now, have I tested the fuel to make sure my 87 is 87 or 89 is 89? No, dont know how. :grin
I have a decent scan gauge. I actually used to work at a corporate autocare center.

Is the higher octane you are buying ethanol free? On a carbonated car you would see a difference albeit small. In a fuel injected vehicle you wouldn't see a difference other than increased mpg as gasoline has FAR more energy per molecule than ethanol.
 

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Yeah, I forgot and fill up the gas can for the small engines at home with e15. So far everything works just fine. I cant tell or feel any differences.

https://jalopnik.com/higher-octane-fuel-in-america-is-getting-closer-and-clo-1826005806
I'm really not sure why you enjoy running fuel in vehicles that isn't meant for it to save nothing more than a few pennies, when in actuality, the energy potential per molecule of gasoline is substantially more than a molecule of ethanol. Additionally, it has been explicitly documented that E15 will ruin small motors.

Finally,you need to reread the link you posted. Jalopnik is implying that by having higher octane levels available throughout the country America can reduce the need for as much gasoline. This is ONLY due to the fact that in order to get MPG's out of small motors they must increase the compression substantially which REQUIRES high octane fuel to resist knocking due to the high compression. Another example is to look at all of the factory turbocharged vehicles. This isn't for fun, speed, or sportiness, it is a way to decrease the power of a motor and then supplement it by capturing wasted energy and turning it into additional power. But, this creates a need for high compression and therefor a higher octane rating that requires premium fuel to prevent knocking.

I really don't understand why you have such a love for E15 and refuse to heed warnings for that specific ethanol ratio. Just because you can't feel or tell the difference doesn't mean it isn't causing damage. As noted in your post regarding your Odyssey, you are experiencing hard starting and worse fuel mileage which can be directly linked to the higher concentration of less energy efficient ethanol. Just as E15 will destroy your small motors (extensively documented and warned about), E15 will corrode and damage your fuel delivery system if your Odyssey is older than 2012. It is fine if you want to ruin your vehicles and lawn equipment simply because "you can't feel or tell a difference" but to imply to others that it is perfectly safe or that E10 fuels really aren't E10 is just ridiculous. I don't really have the desire to keep reinforcing the point when you are going to simply ignore it, but a direct quote from Popular Mechanics is as follows: "Gasstation owners will have to upgrade existing pumps to handle E15 and higher concentrations." Source Even heavy duty pumps can't handle the corrosiveness of E15.
 
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