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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Items Needed:
* Phillips Screwdriver
* (wide range of sizes)
* small wonder bar
* Lighter
* Wire Strippers
* Power Cord
* Speaker Wire
* Remote Wire
* A Line Out Converter

(i have no pictures right now unfortunately)
so this is just a rough draft

First Step:
Figuer out where you would like your amp to be set up, obeically you want your subs in the trunk area. I have my amp currently underneath my driver seat. However you need to decide where to have it, as to this is how much speaker wire you will need.

Second Step:
After figuering this out go ahead and and run speaker wire from your subs to your amp location cut the correct length, and repeat this with however many subs your running in your car. Then take your wire strippers, (or your teeth), and split the ends leave about a half inch or a quarter inch of the wires exposed. go ahead and plug these in to your sub and also your amp.

Third Step: Take your power cord for your amp and run it through to the front of the car. I honestly couldnt find a decent spot to run the power wire to the hood of the vehicle but i found a spot that leaves about a foot of wire exposed if you open up your door. The way to find this is open and prop up your hood, then open your driver side door, and then sit in your seat and lean over to the left. You should see a small tube like hole running through to the hood, run (if you soo choose) the power cord through the hole, if you cant get it through the hole take a metal hanger and unwind it and wrap it around the cord and push it through the hole. after this go ahead and plug it into your amp as well. (do not wire the power wire into your battery yet.)

Fourth step:
This is a bit treaky and time consuming if you dont know what to look for. But you need a good ground for your amp i used speaker wire for this. If you take out the back passenger bench seat part (just pull up really hard and it pops out) you see that the seat belts are held down by a bolt. I used this bolt for my ground. Just take out the bolt, and take some sandpaper and sand down the bolt hole until the paint is gone around the bolt hole. then take enough speaker wire to run from the bolt hole to your amp. Take that length and cut two lengths of speaker wire of that desired length.. take your wire strippers and cut off the edge on one of the sides to about a quarter inch or half inch. then take the other side and strip about 2inches worth. take the two inches worth and wrap it around the bolt and begine to screw in the bolt again. once the bolt is seated in the hole make sure the speaker wire isnt loose and give it a good tug, then proceed to put the speaker wire ground into the amp. Now off the record you dont have to use speaker wire as a ground in fact i wouldnt recommend it, get an actual ground wire to use for this, but speaker wire is a cheap alternative.

fifth step:
now comes the tricky and time consuming parts. If you sit in the driver seat look at your dashboard. If you look above the radio and the storage bin, on the dash you should see two vents for your de-fogger. take a wonderbar (crow bar or some kinda of puller even a flat head) and push it into the seam and pry up on both sides, be very gently though because you dont want the clips that are holding them down to break. just pry the piece up a little bit and then reach to the back of the piece and pull towards you and it should clip out. Once this is completed if you look at the faceplate two phillips screws should be exposed go ahead and take those out. Then pull the face plate off, just give it a good tug and it will come right off. there will be two wires hook up to the face plate the one on the right is the passenger airbag light this can be taken off y a very very small phillips screw located on it, unscrew that and it will fall off, the other side is the hazard lights there clips on both sides of it hold them and pull it off.

sixth step: once you have the stock radio exposed you should see that it is held in by two large silver brackets. If you stare straight at the brackets youll see that on both sides there is two large phillips screws, bolted into the plastic of the car. Go ahead and proceed to take these off be carful once the screws are loose they like to slip down the holes and then your going to have alot of trouble finding them.

seventh step: once this is completed you should be able to pull the radio out about 4-5 inches towards you exposing the wires plugging into the radio. go ahead and disconnect the wires, theres just clips to press and pull out.

eighth step (alternative):
now if you were to use an aftermarket headunit this is where you would most likely need a different wiring harness connector to plug the headunit into the stock speaker termials you would go ahead and plug this into the terminal and then plug your rca's straight into the headunit.

eighth step: (stock head unit)
now in order for your stock head unit to work with the aftermarket amp/subs you need whats called an LOC (line out converter) this is simply a box that has female RCA jacks on one side leading into the plastic box and the otehr side has between 4 and 6 wires. Each different colors. The LOC can be picked up at any audio store, and i know walmart carries them, and best buy carries them.

ninth step:
read the directions on the instructions with the LOC saying which wire taps into what wire on the headunits speaker terminal.
here is the wiring diagram for the terminal.
NISSAN VERSA AUDIO WIRE COLOR CHART

Brownish-orange(the thickest lead) - 12v Constant
Orange - Illumination
Cyan - Switched Lead/Accesory wire/Ignition wire
Black - Ground

Grey - Right Rear Negative
Teal - Right Rear Positive
Purple - Left Rear Negative
Red - Left Rear Positive

Brown/Pink - Left Front Negative
White - Left Front Positive
Green - Right Front Positive
Red/Blue - Right Front Negative

(for right now theres the colors of the wire i will soon have pictures up better describing this how to, and also a picture of the wiring diagram for the audio terminal)

after staring at the mess of wires for a little bit figuer out which wires will be needed in the process, take a piece of tape and mark which ones youll be needing/ using. Now this part is extreamly delicate and hard and this is how i did it you can use whatever method you please id recommend getting the proper tool to take the wires out of the terminal. but i took a lighter and if you hold the flame under the wire for a few seconds, the wiring covering should get hot enough to be able to peal off with your fingernail thus exposing the wire itself. proceed to do this with all the wire you will be using.

tenth step:
now on my car there were two light green wires one was the switch current that you need for your remote wire, and the other was for a speaker i didnt want to get them screwed up, so go ahead and plug in your remote wire to the amp and plug in the power cord into your battery. now take the remove wire and expose some wires and touch the remote wire to the light greenwire, and turn your key to accessory on, if you look at your amp it should have power to it, if not then check the other light green wire, and if you still dont then check all connections going to your amp and back to their source.

eleventh step:
now take the LOC's wires and take the wire and (if you pulled each individual wire out of the terminal with the special tool then just twine the wires together and shove it back in) spread the wires out on the loc, then take the correct wire off the loc and wrap it around the correct wire on the terminal thats been melted and exposed. twine that wire very tightly and cover it with electrical tape. proceed to do this with all the necassary wires.
 
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