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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Read All instructions.

Tools:
T20 Torx screw driver
Phillips Screw Driver
Lock Kit - 4 Actuators (one for each door) , wiring harness, and a brain.
Drill
Replacement door clips
Hacksaw blade
Knife
Small to medium zip ties
3/4 inch metal self drilling screws
Plastic Panel tools
Magnetic Screw tray
Gloves
9V battery
Soldering iron
3M electrical tape.
Wire strippers
Wire clothes hanger.
3/4 inch corrugated tubing
Test Light.
(optional 3/4 inch L brackets)

Photos
Gallery

Preparation.
Use a 9V battery and press them to the Actuator’s Green and blue wires to get an idea of how the actuator works. Positive and negative doesn’t matter. Switching them will determine which way the
actuator will push or pull.

If you have a 12V power supply its a good idea to wire up the entire system outside of the car. This way you’re familiar with how it’s suppose to work. Hook up the wires to the actuators everything will be color coded. The red and black wires on the brain are the positive and negative wires you hook up to your 12 V power supply. By pushing or pulling a 4 wire actuator you’ll see all the actuator move forward and backwards.

Installation
Starting with the Driver’s door. Make sure the window is up.
1. Remove the plastic housing for your side mirror control. Be VERY careful removing this because it is easy to break. Photo

2. Use the T20 Torx screw inside the handle pull you use to close the door. Place the screw in your magnetic tray.Photo

3. Pop out the Handle pull.

4. Use the Phillips head screw driver to remove the screw inside the hole where the Handle pull you just removed was. Place the screw inside the Magnetic Tray Photo

5. You'll need to remove the window crank. You can look up how to do this on YouTube. If you plan on installing power windows you can throw them away. Otherwise you'll want to keep them around. Use a knife or a pick set like [this](Amazon.com: ATD Tools 8424 9-Piece Scraper, Hook and Pick Set: Automotive) to wedge the clip out from between the crank and the door. Once that's out the crank will slide right off.

6. Use the Panel tools to gently pry the door panel off. You can look up videos on youtube for how to do this.

7. Locate the inside door handle you use to open the door. To the left you’ll notice two cables. You’ll want to use your hack saw blade and remove 2 inches of the rubber and metal sheathing. Use the hacksaw blade and cut around the wire inside. You are NOT going to cut the cable all the way through. There is a thick gauge cable that runs freely inside the sheathing. This cable is similar to a bike break cable. Do not cut the inside cable. Refer to the picture. Photo

8. Line up the brackets for the Actuator the way you want them.

9. Mount the actuator (4 wire actuator for drivers door, if you have (2) 4 wire actuators then use the other one on the front passenger side door, use the 2 wire actuators for the rear doors) to the brackets and mount it to the door.

10. Take the metal arm for the actuator and put it through the hole and line it up with the cable you just unsheathed.

11. Use the connecting mount to attach the actuator arm to the cable. Use a Phillips head screw driver to secure it. Photo

12. Lay out the wiring harness under your diver’s side dash and feed the wires for the driver’s door through the rubber boot. Use the wire clothes hanger for this. Tape the wires to the clothe hanger and feed it through.

13. Connect the wires. Secure them with the zip ties. It’s important that these wires cannot get in the way of the window as it’s opening and closing. Photo

14. Use the zip ties to secure the lock cable to the Actuator mount. You don’t want this cable to move too much because you can disable your door. Then you’ll have to fiddle with it to get it working again. You won’t be able to open or close the door if you yank on this cable too hard. Photo

15. Make sure you feel behind where you mounted the brackets for the actuator. Make sure the screws aren’t deep enough to scratch your window.

The process is pretty much the same for the other doors. You’ll need to remove the kick and inside side panels to run the wires to the rear doors. By inside side panels I mean the panel where your front seat belts run through.

Another thing you need to do for the real panels is remove the grommets between the rear door and the inside. This is where you run the wires through. However you need to use the knife to cut a hole through the grommet and use some of the corrugated tubing to make a boot. It’s very important you don’t just remove the grommets and run the wiring because you’ll have your wires touching edged metal that will wear and cut into the wire and cause you to short out your locking system.

After all the wiring is done you'll need to locate a red and black wire under your dash. Use your wire strippers to remove some sheathing and connect your brain. You want to use your test light to find your ALWAYS ON power.

You might notice that your handle to open the door is a little wobbly. To fix this I used an L Bracket like this. Photo I think this is optional.
 

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Thanks for the write up Lizard!!
I do have one question.. What "Brain" did you use to connect all the door locks to?
Did you put a door lock switch inside?

Thanks,

BA_Bandit
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response BA_Bandit.

This is the kit that I used Amazon.com: POWER DOOR LOCK KIT 4 DOOR: Automotive

I don't have any additional switches. The way it works is if you flip a master lock (5 wire actuator) all of the other locks follow along. It works well and it's a nice simple interface.

For me it was the two front doors, but the the description seems to indicate there is only one master (5 wire) actuator so this may not be the case for you
 

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Cool LizardVersa, I purchased the same one but also bought the Viper 3105V alarm to make it keyless entry..

This is my first time ever trying to install an alarm system on a car so it will be interesting... Should have paid to have it done LOL.

Thanks for your reply..
 

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Something I still do not understand.
Did you hook up a switch that the driver can flick to unlock all the doors or just when you use the key on the one door all doors unlock?

I want to have a switch... Just wondering how to wire for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Pick up a 12 volt power supply. I got one of these Amazon.com: Stanley J5C09 1000 Peak Amp Jump Starter with Built in Compressor: Automotive

I have the older model and I got it cheaper at Sam's club. Then I took a cigarette plug and cut the wires and used that as a power source.

Alternatively you can just hook some wires up to the terminals on your battery. Then wire the whole thing up to get a feel of how it works.

Then wire it up and play with it. You'll understand how it works.

You put the 5 wire actuator in the driver's door (if it comes with 2 5 wires like mine did, put them in the front doors). When you lock or unlock the door with the existing stock switch it will open all the doors or close all the doors depending on how you set it up.

You'll hook your keyless entry system up to the brain of the lock system you bought. It's pretty easy. If you can find the PDF of the install guide or scan it and post it I'll try and help you find the wires. The door triggers are a bit tricky to track down, but I did do it.

I installed the Viper 5706V with remote start. My buddy and I got the keyless entry done the first day, but the door triggers and remote start took a great deal longer.
 

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Nice!! So I have just started installing all the actuators and tested out the open close functions. I understand so much more now.. also watched a video explaining how actuators work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5o704Uh1hJc
Once I get the actuators installed I will start the alarm system. I will have to look for the wiring schematics and I may need some advice once I get there.. I really do appreciate your help!!

Thanks,

BA_Bandit
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's great to hear. I'm glad it helped.

Please please please!!! Remember to make the rear door boots and to ziptie the wires securely so that they don't interfere with your window operation.
 

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Has any one tried to use install a remote start on a stick shift. i have the base sedan model. so, i have manual everything.
 

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ok, yeah i was reading about it. did you have to bypass the clutch or so?. you know how you have to press the clutch to start the car. i want to get a viper alarm/remote start. they tell you how to set it up once hooked up.
 

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Issue findind always on cable

great instruction. I was installing mine and i ran into the issue of finding an always on cable. I have a 2015 versa and i can find one under the dash. any recommendation that would make it easier to find one?

thank you
 

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Does doing any of this work void or cause any problems with the warranty on the cars? I have a 2015 Nissan Versa S with automatic transmission and I really want to add power locks (power windows dont really matter to me), a center console, and a spoiler. I didnt know if these woudl cause any problems.
 

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I'm working on adding power locks to my car and this how-to is super helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do it. I have a couple more questions.

1. Can you take a picture of the boot you made. I was looking through parts to see if I could just get the rubber boot that was empty, but it looks like you have to buy the whole wiring harness for the rear door $65 for each door = $130 (and I paid $50 for the keyless kit!). How did you bond the corrugated tubing to the factory boot cover (rubber cement, epoxy, etc.?).

2. Where did you get the red wire? Did you cut into the ignition harness? I was thinking of just using one of these fuse taps Accelevision FT-MICROATC Pre-wired Low Profile Mini Fuse Tap on an unused circuit (like the heated seats or push-to-start) that seem to be giving me constant 13 volts).

3. It would be interesting to see how you routed the wires to the passenger side? Did you run them back on the firewall or on the front part by the panel.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey guys I'll do a remote start write up. I did a neutral safety switch writeup but it wasn't approved I guess. OMG PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE if you're not going to do the special handshake to activate your remote start PLEASE install a neutral safety switch. It's really easy. You need 2 springs one forward one in the back. You need a relay. Ground out your shifter and put positive to the springs. When you put it into gear you complete the circuit and the relay switches to deactivate the remote start. Basically this is what I did https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4cwCnCES5r8
 

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Great write up lizardversa! got all my materials together but have a few ?'s. where did you find and tap into the parking light wire so they would flash when you lock and unlock doors?
where did you find and tap into a constant 12v for the keyless module? thanks
 

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When you finished installing the power door locks, did you put the plastic film over the door interior? From your pictures, you did not re-attach the plastic film back onto the door.

Normally the film is attached to the door interior with the black goop. However, I took off the plastic film from the door interior and, when I tried to re-attach it, it wouldn't stick back onto the door interior; it seems that the black goop is a one-time-use adhesive. I would need to apply new adhesive or sealant to re-attach the film to the door.
 

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I bought an aftermarket power door lock kit from amazon.com. When I opened the box, there was only one mounting bracket and no remote controls. Before I return this for a refund, I wanted to know if the mounting brackets are necessary to attach the actuators to the door. The main picture on the item description page shows only two mounting brackets but the item description states that the kit should include "a complete set of accessories for installation."

In your experience, are the mounting brackets necessary? I wonder if I can just attach the actuator to the door directly instead of using a mounting bracket. If the brackets are not needed, then I will go ahead and install this kit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RMYT6C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Please disregard this post (Post #19) and see Post #18 above. I didn't realize I double posted.
 

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Turns out I don't need the mounting brackets. I found some extra L-shaped brackets from furniture that I bought from Ikea and straightened them. I also used extra mounting brackets from the power window kit for mounting the door lock actuators to the door.

I've installed the power window motors and door lock actuators to the front passenger door and the two rear doors. I still need to install the motor and actuator in the driver's door, run the wiring to each door, and then connect the wiring to the correct wires in the car dash.
 
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