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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Read All instructions.

T20 Torx screw driver
Phillips Screw Driver
Lock Kit - 4 Actuators (one for each door) , wiring harness, and a brain.
Replacement door clips
Hacksaw blade
Small to medium zip ties
3/4 inch metal self drilling screws
Plastic Panel tools
Magnetic Screw tray
9V battery
Soldering iron
3M electrical tape.
Wire strippers
Wire clothes hanger.
3/4 inch corrugated tubing
Test Light.
(optional 3/4 inch L brackets)


Use a 9V battery and press them to the Actuator’s Green and blue wires to get an idea of how the actuator works. Positive and negative doesn’t matter. Switching them will determine which way the
actuator will push or pull.

If you have a 12V power supply its a good idea to wire up the entire system outside of the car. This way you’re familiar with how it’s suppose to work. Hook up the wires to the actuators everything will be color coded. The red and black wires on the brain are the positive and negative wires you hook up to your 12 V power supply. By pushing or pulling a 4 wire actuator you’ll see all the actuator move forward and backwards.

Starting with the Driver’s door. Make sure the window is up.
1. Remove the plastic housing for your side mirror control. Be VERY careful removing this because it is easy to break. Photo

2. Use the T20 Torx screw inside the handle pull you use to close the door. Place the screw in your magnetic tray.Photo

3. Pop out the Handle pull.

4. Use the Phillips head screw driver to remove the screw inside the hole where the Handle pull you just removed was. Place the screw inside the Magnetic Tray Photo

5. You'll need to remove the window crank. You can look up how to do this on YouTube. If you plan on installing power windows you can throw them away. Otherwise you'll want to keep them around. Use a knife or a pick set like [this]( ATD Tools 8424 9-Piece Scraper, Hook and Pick Set: Automotive) to wedge the clip out from between the crank and the door. Once that's out the crank will slide right off.

6. Use the Panel tools to gently pry the door panel off. You can look up videos on youtube for how to do this.

7. Locate the inside door handle you use to open the door. To the left you’ll notice two cables. You’ll want to use your hack saw blade and remove 2 inches of the rubber and metal sheathing. Use the hacksaw blade and cut around the wire inside. You are NOT going to cut the cable all the way through. There is a thick gauge cable that runs freely inside the sheathing. This cable is similar to a bike break cable. Do not cut the inside cable. Refer to the picture. Photo

8. Line up the brackets for the Actuator the way you want them.

9. Mount the actuator (4 wire actuator for drivers door, if you have (2) 4 wire actuators then use the other one on the front passenger side door, use the 2 wire actuators for the rear doors) to the brackets and mount it to the door.

10. Take the metal arm for the actuator and put it through the hole and line it up with the cable you just unsheathed.

11. Use the connecting mount to attach the actuator arm to the cable. Use a Phillips head screw driver to secure it. Photo

12. Lay out the wiring harness under your diver’s side dash and feed the wires for the driver’s door through the rubber boot. Use the wire clothes hanger for this. Tape the wires to the clothe hanger and feed it through.

13. Connect the wires. Secure them with the zip ties. It’s important that these wires cannot get in the way of the window as it’s opening and closing. Photo

14. Use the zip ties to secure the lock cable to the Actuator mount. You don’t want this cable to move too much because you can disable your door. Then you’ll have to fiddle with it to get it working again. You won’t be able to open or close the door if you yank on this cable too hard. Photo

15. Make sure you feel behind where you mounted the brackets for the actuator. Make sure the screws aren’t deep enough to scratch your window.

The process is pretty much the same for the other doors. You’ll need to remove the kick and inside side panels to run the wires to the rear doors. By inside side panels I mean the panel where your front seat belts run through.

Another thing you need to do for the real panels is remove the grommets between the rear door and the inside. This is where you run the wires through. However you need to use the knife to cut a hole through the grommet and use some of the corrugated tubing to make a boot. It’s very important you don’t just remove the grommets and run the wiring because you’ll have your wires touching edged metal that will wear and cut into the wire and cause you to short out your locking system.

After all the wiring is done you'll need to locate a red and black wire under your dash. Use your wire strippers to remove some sheathing and connect your brain. You want to use your test light to find your ALWAYS ON power.

You might notice that your handle to open the door is a little wobbly. To fix this I used an L Bracket like this. Photo I think this is optional.

· Registered
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response BA_Bandit.

This is the kit that I used POWER DOOR LOCK KIT 4 DOOR: Automotive

I don't have any additional switches. The way it works is if you flip a master lock (5 wire actuator) all of the other locks follow along. It works well and it's a nice simple interface.

For me it was the two front doors, but the the description seems to indicate there is only one master (5 wire) actuator so this may not be the case for you

· Registered
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Pick up a 12 volt power supply. I got one of these Stanley J5C09 1000 Peak Amp Jump Starter with Built in Compressor: Automotive

I have the older model and I got it cheaper at Sam's club. Then I took a cigarette plug and cut the wires and used that as a power source.

Alternatively you can just hook some wires up to the terminals on your battery. Then wire the whole thing up to get a feel of how it works.

Then wire it up and play with it. You'll understand how it works.

You put the 5 wire actuator in the driver's door (if it comes with 2 5 wires like mine did, put them in the front doors). When you lock or unlock the door with the existing stock switch it will open all the doors or close all the doors depending on how you set it up.

You'll hook your keyless entry system up to the brain of the lock system you bought. It's pretty easy. If you can find the PDF of the install guide or scan it and post it I'll try and help you find the wires. The door triggers are a bit tricky to track down, but I did do it.

I installed the Viper 5706V with remote start. My buddy and I got the keyless entry done the first day, but the door triggers and remote start took a great deal longer.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey guys I'll do a remote start write up. I did a neutral safety switch writeup but it wasn't approved I guess. OMG PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE if you're not going to do the special handshake to activate your remote start PLEASE install a neutral safety switch. It's really easy. You need 2 springs one forward one in the back. You need a relay. Ground out your shifter and put positive to the springs. When you put it into gear you complete the circuit and the relay switches to deactivate the remote start. Basically this is what I did
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