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Discussion Starter #1
So I figure I would actually post a how to. I decided that with 300k it might be a wise choice to replace the hubs and fionally replace the rotors(they were warping). So I found some good replacments. First I discovered a company called Disc Brake Rotors & Pads | R1Concepts.com that sales only brake stuff. So I purchased there e-line slotted and cross-drilled rotors and ceramic brake pads. I then found that timken has replacemtn hubs and found a new set on ebay for 60 a peice. Autozone wanted a 100 and the dealaer wanted 150. Note, this is for 1st generation but 2nd should be similar. So here we go.

First u need to remove the cotter pin on the axle and with some one putting the brakes on loosen the axle nut. U will need a 30mm axle nut socket to do this


next with a 14mm socket remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the caliper bracket. U can either use a wire to hang the caliper or it actually can fit in between the springs as not to pull on the brake line.




Next with a 17mm socket take off the caliper bracket



Take the rotor off and this is what you should see


Now for the hub removal. With a 21 mm socket and open end wrench take off the 2 bolts holding the shock to the spindle




Next taking a soft rubber mallet hit the threaded end of the axle and it will back out of the hub. You may need a center punch or flat had screw driver to knock it all the way thorugh.



Taking a 17 mm socket remove the 2 bolts holding the hub to the spindle


Take a hammer and pound the old hub out.
New Hub next to old hub


new rotor next to old rotor with 307k miles on them


Mount the hub back to the spindle and tighten the bolts down. Now just do everything in the reverse order and u should end up with this.



A tip for the pads. Replace them like in this pic. Put the pads on first colpase the caliper then put the caliper on


And now done with wheels back on



So far I have been very happy. All the brake squeal is gone and so is the shakign from when I stop. Total price on this job

160 for pads and rotors
120 for hubs
14 for 30 mm axle nut socket
 

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Awesome post. So I guess the hub and bearing are one unit on the Versa? With getting so many miles out of the stock parts I'm surprised you bought anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I trust timken. They make quality parts. And I have had good luck with after market stuff as well. And yeah the hubs and bearings are a non servicable unit
 

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very nice how-to thats amazing you got all those miles out of the parts
 

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very nice, i'd be scared to do that myself lol i would probably take it all apart and then forget how to put it all back lolll
 

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Discussion Starter #8
im a self taught mechanic. It only took maybe 2 hours total and i caould knock it out in an hour the next time i do have to do it. Probably gonna be replacing my cats and o2 sensors soon so waith till u see that write up
 

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You are an asset to the community. Can't wait until I need to do some work so I can do another howto. Next for me will prob be coolant drain and fill then sparkplugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You are an asset to the community. Can't wait until I need to do some work so I can do another howto. Next for me will prob be coolant drain and fill then sparkplugs.
I will be doing plugs here soon also with the cats. Ill do a few write ups for my next service.
 

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awesome! we can compare and see if at all the process is different from a 1.8 to a 1.6.
 

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the hub is basically what makes the wheel spin (on the rear wheels). Its the part between the wheel and the torsion beam.
 

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Thanks for the tip on unbolting the spindle from the shock. A video on youtube shows someone reaching behind the hub blind with a socket (nissan Quest).

Just curious - what torque on the axle nut?
 

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on my 2014 s the wheel hub has a press in instead of a bolt in replacement hub bearing had to use a press kit free rental to change it out an amazon had both bearings for 30 bucks vs 136. each at autozone
 
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