So I figure I would actually post a how to. I decided that with 300k it might be a wise choice to replace the hubs and fionally replace the rotors(they were warping). So I found some good replacments. First I discovered a company called Disc Brake Rotors & Pads | R1Concepts.com that sales only brake stuff. So I purchased there e-line slotted and cross-drilled rotors and ceramic brake pads. I then found that timken has replacemtn hubs and found a new set on ebay for 60 a peice. Autozone wanted a 100 and the dealaer wanted 150. Note, this is for 1st generation but 2nd should be similar. So here we go.
First u need to remove the cotter pin on the axle and with some one putting the brakes on loosen the axle nut. U will need a 30mm axle nut socket to do this
next with a 14mm socket remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the caliper bracket. U can either use a wire to hang the caliper or it actually can fit in between the springs as not to pull on the brake line.
Next with a 17mm socket take off the caliper bracket
Take the rotor off and this is what you should see
Now for the hub removal. With a 21 mm socket and open end wrench take off the 2 bolts holding the shock to the spindle
Next taking a soft rubber mallet hit the threaded end of the axle and it will back out of the hub. You may need a center punch or flat had screw driver to knock it all the way thorugh.
Taking a 17 mm socket remove the 2 bolts holding the hub to the spindle
Take a hammer and pound the old hub out.
New Hub next to old hub
new rotor next to old rotor with 307k miles on them
Mount the hub back to the spindle and tighten the bolts down. Now just do everything in the reverse order and u should end up with this.
A tip for the pads. Replace them like in this pic. Put the pads on first colpase the caliper then put the caliper on
And now done with wheels back on
So far I have been very happy. All the brake squeal is gone and so is the shakign from when I stop. Total price on this job
160 for pads and rotors
120 for hubs
14 for 30 mm axle nut socket
Awesome post. So I guess the hub and bearing are one unit on the Versa? With getting so many miles out of the stock parts I'm surprised you bought anything else.
Well I trust timken. They make quality parts. And I have had good luck with after market stuff as well. And yeah the hubs and bearings are a non servicable unit
im a self taught mechanic. It only took maybe 2 hours total and i caould knock it out in an hour the next time i do have to do it. Probably gonna be replacing my cats and o2 sensors soon so waith till u see that write up
You are an asset to the community. Can't wait until I need to do some work so I can do another howto. Next for me will prob be coolant drain and fill then sparkplugs.
You are an asset to the community. Can't wait until I need to do some work so I can do another howto. Next for me will prob be coolant drain and fill then sparkplugs.
Thanks for the tip on unbolting the spindle from the shock. A video on youtube shows someone reaching behind the hub blind with a socket (nissan Quest).
on my 2014 s the wheel hub has a press in instead of a bolt in replacement hub bearing had to use a press kit free rental to change it out an amazon had both bearings for 30 bucks vs 136. each at autozone
I found that changing my own oil wasn't too hard even for a first timer. I bought Mobil 1 extended performance fully synthetic oil along with the correct size mobil 1 fully synthetic extended performance oil filter. I believe it was called A-108 or some such measurement. Not gunna lie amazon.com...
1) Make sure wheels are straight. Unplug the battery, and wait about 10mins.
2) On the back of the steering wheel are these caps. Take them off with your fingers or flat head.
3) Take the flat head and put it into the holes and push hard straight. It will feel like a type of spring. Take...
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