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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Difficulty:
Easy to Moderate

Time To Complete:
About 1/2 Hour for each Torque Rod or 1 hour total.

Tools Needed:
Breaker Bar or Impact Tool, 18mm Socket, Torque Wrench, Jack Stands or Car Ramps & small Pry Bar.

Parts Needed:

Right Hand Torque Rod – Nissan Part 11350-EL00A
Rear Torque Rod – Nissan Part 11360-EL00A
Washers – Nissan Part 089154421A
Anti-Seize

This post will describe how I replaced the Right Hand Torque Rod and the Rear Torque Rod on my daughter’s 2007 Nissan Versa Hatchback S.

A little over a year ago Miguel posted a “How To” for replacing the Right Hand Torque Rod

Miguel's How To

This is very nice “How To” and I used it as a reference when I started this project. I think my “How To” will supplement Miguel’s post by providing just a little more detail – primarily torque values.

I didn’t find any information on replacing the Rear Torque Rod so I hope others will find that section of this “How To” particularly useful.

Nomenclature is often a problem when describing a project so I’ll deal with that first.

The following diagram has been extracted from the Nissan Versa Service Manual. It is located on Page EM-73.



The following nomenclature is taken from the same page as the diagram and refers to the numbered items in the diagram:

1. Torque rod (RH)
2. Engine mounting Insulator (RH)
3. Engine mounting bracket (RH)
4. Bracket
5. Rear torque rod
6. Engine through bolt
7. Engine mounting bracket (LH)
8. Engine mounting insulator (LH)

Referring again to the diagram, the reader will notice a couple of symbols.
The symbol that looks like a white X in a black circle means that part should be replaced with a new part.

The symbol that looks like a black square enclosing a white wrench head around a white bolt head refers to torque values. The number immediately adjacent to that symbol is the torque in Newton-meters. The numbers in parenthesis are (Kilogram-meter, Foot-pound). I will be using the Foot-pound values in this How-To.

About a month ago I was doing some routine maintenance on my daughter’s car. I noticed that the rubber inside the Right Hand Torque Rod was torn. I did some internet research and found that this was not an unusual situation for a Versa with 130,000 miles. I also learned that it might be wise to replace the Rear Torque Rod at the same time the Right Hand Torque Rod was replaced.

I acquired the following OEM parts:

Right Hand Torque Rod – Nissan Part 11350-EL00A
Amazon.com (Genuine Parts Warehouse) $64.00 Free Shipping
Nissan List Price: $91.68

Rear Torque Rod – Nissan Part 11360-EL00A
eBay $24.80 Free Shipping
Nissan List Price: $40.13

Washer – Nissan Part 089154421A
eBay $7.87 (10 Washers) Free Shipping
Nissan List Price: 82 cents per washer

I was going to pick up the washers from my closest Nissan dealership. The dealership was 20 miles away so I called to see if they had them in stock. They did not and would have to special order them at $1.84 per washer – which is a dollar each more than they should have been. I told him I needed two. The parts guy told me that I needed to come to the dealership and pay before they would order them. Then I would have to return a day later to pick them up. That equates to about 3 hours of time and about 3 gallons of gas for a couple of washers.

I expressed my dismay to the parts guy and the call ended. I purchased 10 washers on eBay for about 2/3 of what it would have cost me to purchase 2 of them at the dealership.

Over a period of a few days the parts were received and I could now begin the project.

The only preparation required for the removing the Right Hand Torque Rod is opening the engine compartment hood.

In the following picture the white arrow points to the torn rubber in the Right Hand Torque Rod.



The Right Hand Torque Rod is simple to replace. The biggest issue is the torque required to release the 2 bolts. The following picture shows the two bolts that need to be removed. They both require an 18mm socket.



Note the washer on the bolt that goes through the rubber part of the Torque Rod. The Service Manual indicates that washer should be replaced. On my daughter’s car, both of these bolts are accessible without dismantling any other components. The biggest issue is the torque involved to remove these bolts. While it might be possible to get an impact tool into the space, I chose to use a Craftsman 15-inch Flex Handle “Breaker Bar” to achieve the initial loosening of these bolts.



While this was an adequate tool for the job, it required quite a bit of force to break these bolts loose. A longer breaker bar or an impact tool would make this an easier job.

Once the bolts had been broken loose, I transferred the 18mm socket to a standard ratchet wrench and, while holding my breath, removed the bolts. As I had hoped the engine did not move.



With the 2 bolts removed I attempted to remove the Torque Rod. It didn’t slide right out but required some wiggling before the Torque Rod came free of the car body.





Installation is essentially the reverse of the removal. I did put a little anti-seize on the bolts and replaced the old washer with a new one. The washers don’t appear to be anything exotic so it might be possible to use something from the hardware store.



I wiggled the new Torque Rod into position and used a ratchet wrench to bring the bolt heads into contact with the mounting surface.



The final task was torqueing both bolts to 103 Foot-pounds.



Having completed the Right Hand Torque Rod replacement, I now started to work on the Rear Torque Rod.

The car will have to be lifted in some fashion to get at the Rear Torque Rod. I drove the Versa onto a couple of Car Ramps. Another option might be jack up the front end of the car and set it down on Jack Stands.

After I got the front end of the car up in the air a bit, I crawled under the car and had a look at the Rear Torque Rod.



I was delighted to see that, again, nothing needed to be removed in order to have full access to the Rear Torque Rod. Based upon the fact that nothing had moved when I removed the Right Hand Torque Rod, I assumed that would be the case below the car. That turned out to be incorrect.
I used an impact tool to remove the forward bolt and…



…the engine moved aft a bit less than an inch.



That was disappointing but I pressed on and used the impact tool to remove the rear bolt. The Rear Torque Rod was removed without difficulty.



I compared the old Torque Rod to the new Torque Rod…



The old part seemed to be in good shape so perhaps this replacement hadn’t been necessary. At least there weren’t any obvious problems with the old part.

I was a bit surprised at the condition of the rear bolt. It appeared to be somewhat corroded. It stands in dramatic contrast to the forward bolt which looks practically brand new.



That’s a puzzler. For now I will use that bolt. I intend to get a replacement bolt as soon as I can and replace the old one. Again, I put a little anti-seize on the bolts and replaced the old washer with a new one. I put the new Torque Rod into position and lined up the aft bolt holes. I threaded the aft bolt into position and then, using a small pry bar, I moved the engine forward far enough to line up the forward bolt holes. This did not require much effort.



Since I initially posted this How To, it has occurred to me that placing a wedge of some sort into the area that I placed the pry bar PRIOR to removing either bolt should keep the engine from moving aft when the rear bolt is removed.

I then torqued both bolts to 59 Foot-Pounds and the job was complete.



Compared to most automotive projects I have attempted, the replacement of the Nissan Versa’s Right Hand Torque Rod & Rear Torque Rod was extremely straight-forward. With parts in hand and the proper tools, I believe these two tasks could be accomplished in an hour or so.
I hope this “How To” will give others the confidence to attempt either, or both, of these procedures.

Scott
 
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