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Mines is drive by wire, so is my 08 honda. No vacuum needed. My 06 scion used a servo as it had a throttle cable. My 1981 mercedes I had used vacuum for the door locks and cruse.

Right, since I am not wired, I got a passthrough connector for the throttle. Since I am not an automatic I also got to tag in the brake and clutch too. :surprise
 

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talked to another guy (not related to Nissan and very interested in getting paid for doing the job) and he said the same...even with a prewired car I'd ave to replace many inner things.

So...unless somebody else has other news...I'll wait and do the aftermarket soon :smile
 

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Crash and burn. I went to install it and tried a test drive. Got a check engine, traction control and some other lamp. Got some codes about throttle position sensor low. Went to drive the car as I idle it out of my community in 3rd gear with no problems. Idle was higher than normal, but the car has sat for a few months and I assumed it was nothing. Well went to pull out in traffic and no power, no response from throttle. Pulled over and disconnected the pass through connector for the throttle. It worked as fine without it.

So going to test passthrough connector to make sure its got connectivity and measure ohms. :frown
 

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after one whole year...do we have any news about this?

I just bought the switches for the steering wheel...I'll just give it a try and see what happens (if anything happens)
 

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I'll be installing the Rostra unit in my 2018 Versa sedan with manual trans in a couple weeks. Looks like its not a huge job like the old Audiovox vacuum units I've installed on several cars. Not going to try to install factory steering wheel switches but instead use the little switch panel that comes with the kit.
 

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I thought about the rostra and it's still an option, but for the money (300$ at least) I'm not sure it's worth it...my car is not "new".

Trying to go OEM is worth a shot, if it doesn't work I really don't like the grey blank covers anyway and I'm sure I can wire the audio control at least :)
 

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So, next Thursday I'm going to cruise the car, OEM.

I'll try to cover all the steps with relative part numbers and necessary wiring that you must have in order to cruise it OEM, as soon as it's done.
 

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Let me say that if your car is already wired for it it's more reliable to go OEM because you will avoid tapping into other wires or adding more wires to the ones that they are already there. You will take advantage of what the car is already offering you.
The rostra kit costs around 300$ (plus taxes) plus labour if you don't do it your own. A local shop quoted me 500$ (all included) for the job, while the OEM is usually cheaper.

First, you need to make sure you have the necessary wiring:

Mainly you have to check:

1) Behind the clock spring, under the steering wheel column lower cover there are two harnesses: one is yellow and one is grey, you need wires coming out from the grey, pins 33 and 34 (lower row on the right), red and black.

2) In the ECM E16 harness (there are 3 of them, the E16 is the one closer to the inner part of the engine compartment) the pins are the 94 and 95 (red and black). The E16 has 32 pins, 8 pins per row, 4 rows. The first left upper corner pin is number 81, the one under it is 82 and so on...check pins 94 and 95.

3) Where the brake pedal is you will notice that the stop light switch is already there in the upper position and there is another open spot for the CC cutout switch jut under it. When you are under the driver footwell use a lamp to look up where the stoplight switch is and you should notice that there is a brown harness. That's the one you need to hook the cutout switch to.
According to the manual it looks like the stop light switch should go UNDER the Cruise switch, and I don't know if it really matters on not but you can place the stop light switch the spot below. Don't worry because the clips are the same so you can successfully interchange them.
To remove it just turn it clockwise, make sure you install both of them correctly so the switches make contact with brake pedals.

Parts that you need are:

1) steering wheel control buttons (part number 25550-ZW80A) around 35$ on eBay
2) Cruise Control Cutout Switch (part number 25300-AT300) and support clip (20$ on eBay, I suggest the FAE brand because it includes both switch and clip)

3) Swap (or reprogram) ECM at the dealership: this is mainly up to you and I suggest that you touch bases with your dealer before proceeding.
The ECM itself for your uncruised Versa (at least 2012, check for other years) is part number 23710-9EG2A (w/o CC) and it has all the necessary pins in it, so it could be reflashed using calibration 23710-9EG3A (with CC).
Alternately you can buy a new ECM with part number 23710-9EG3A that will have to be assigned later to your car (dealer will do that along with registering the keys etc) or a black ECM.
I found a ECM with calibration and swapped, the dealer took care of the procedure (register keys and set up things).

Result: OEM cruise control working with no unnecessary extra wiring and stuff :)
 

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What was your total cost on installing the OEM cruise? I installed a Rostra a couple weeks ago which wasn't a lot of fun. My old body doesn't do well at soldering wires at arms length under the dash. Works great though. Total cost was $300 for the kit. No other parts required.
 

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i have a 2008 Tiida hatchback (gcc spec) 1.6 4AT comes with power windows, power locks and remote entry, i was checking my brake pedal to see if its "pre-wired" for cruise but it looks to me that i have only one slot for the switch, does that mean my car is uncruisable?
 

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