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Discussion Starter #1
I have 112K miles on my 2007 S (hatchback, non-CVT, non-ABS)
It's been quite reliable over the years--I bought it in 2007.
Never have even seen a "check engine" light.
Nothing major has ever been replaced, other than routine manual-recommended maintenance items, the battery a few years ago, rear shocks, and of course tires.

In your experience of "Gen1" Versas, what critical parts have failed in the approx 100K to say 150K mileage range?
Fuel pump? Water pump? Other parts?
Would switching to synthetic oil be advisable? I've not used it in past.
Any other recommendations for keeping it peppy and reliable?

Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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Personally I don't think synthetic oil will make that much difference. I drove an '88 Ford Escort 518,000 miles and never used a drop of synthetic oil in it. The Escort was still running when I quit driving it a few years ago because it needed other work and I just didn't want to invest the time/money into it. Just stay on top of your oil changes and do them at least by the manufacturers recommended interval and I think everything will be fine. Most modern cars end up in junk yards for things not related to the oil that was used in them.

I change the oil in my Versa every 5K miles with dino oil. As clean as the oil still looks when it's drained I think it would be safe to go 7,000-7,500 miles between changes, but considering it only takes 3.2 quarts of oil and about 15 minutes of my time to change it I'm going to stick with the recommended change interval at least for now. If I forget or don't notice the mileage right on time I'm not going to worry about it as long as it's under 7,500 miles.

My dad bought a new Mercury in 1968. Even then Ford didn't recommend oil changes but every 6,000 miles. The first car I ever purchased was a new 1977 Buick. At that time GM was recommending 7,500 mile change intervals. Both engines and oils have come a long way since then. Truth be known it would probably be safe to run 10,000 mile intervals.

Most cars now recommend anything from 0w20-5w30 motor oil. When I started driving back in the 70's I started using 10w40 in my cars. 43 years later I'm still using 10w40 in all my cars. If it will take a car that the recommended weight was 5w30 518,000 miles I see no reason to change. My Versa also recommends 5w30 but it's doing fine on a diet of 10w40 year around. I live in an area of the country where it occasionally gets as low as -10*F and as hot as 110*F and have never experienced any oil related problems.
 

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Congrats to you! That's a good run. I'm assuming you don't live in the rust belt?

Standard items at this age and mileage would be wheel bearings, control arms, stabilizer bar end links, serpentine belt tensioners, idlers, etc, etc.. A long list of things.
 

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Have a 09 and just under 100k. Nothing major has gone out on it. Have kept on top of things tho.
Do have a left strut bearing on the way out. Going to have both struts replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Keith, PoMan, and 2016 Versa-- some further questions, if you have a minute.
BTW, interesting oil info in the first reply.
  • PoMan (or anyone): of the parts failures likely at 100-150K miles, would there be a short list of "sneaky sudden breakdown" failures likely in the gen1 Versas? Lots of parts failures are gradual and noticeable before any breakdown, and I'm not as concerned about those because they are less likely to strand me.
  • Keith: what specific symptoms have you noticed for left strut bearing wear? Does that cause wobbling on turns?
 

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Thanks Keith, PoMan, and 2016 Versa-- some further questions, if you have a minute.
BTW, interesting oil info in the first reply.
  • PoMan (or anyone): of the parts failures likely at 100-150K miles, would there be a short list of "sneaky sudden breakdown" failures likely in the gen1 Versas? Lots of parts failures are gradual and noticeable before any breakdown, and I'm not as concerned about those because they are less likely to strand me.
  • Keith: what specific symptoms have you noticed for left strut bearing wear? Does that cause wobbling on turns?
Mine clunks or pops when turning the wheel. Can tell the bearing is binding.
Sometimes they creak or click when going over bumps too.
 

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Mine clunks or pops when turning the wheel. Can tell the bearing is binding.
Sometimes they creak or click when going over bumps too.
These are EXACTLY the symptoms my 2012 Nissan Versa 1.6L SV was having. My car was raised and we found that the issue was the control arm bushings were cracked and worn paired with the suspension mounting plate having play when lowered. I changed out the strut assemblies, sway bar links, and control arms. She now rides like a winner.
 

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The most likely fail that shuts you down right THEN is cooling system as in stat sticking shut. While many cars can go longer than 150K miles on the same stat I for one change it as well as the hoses at some point between 100 and 150K. How you drive car until motor is dead with no overheating issues at all. The quickest way to put a car in the scrapyard.

Both my CV axles are dead right now at almost 100K, odd for an '11 car that was never abused. They can be driven to a point without stranding you if you are careful.
 
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