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I have always thought Nissan used too small an oil filter. Especially on the Note with it's small sump capacity. Doing some research I found that the 2000 Maxima filter would work on the Note. I verified the application last night. I used Amsoil Ea 15K 13 (stock would be Ea 15K 12), a Wix 51356 should be the same filter. First picture is the stock Nissan 15208-65F0E. I thought I saw somewhere that Nissan was coming out with a bigger filter, but that might have been an EU board. Second picture is the Ea 15K 13 installed. You can no longer use an end wrench, but I generally just use my hands. Third picture is a comparison between and Ea 15K 12 and Ea 15K 13 (3/8 socket wrench for scale).
 

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Some people think bigger is better because more media filter area. I used a larger filter on another car because I felt that the oil capacity was too low. I tried getting as much oil as I could without overfilling. Not that you can fit that much more in the larger filter than the smaller but it helped me sleep at night.

In reality a larger filter might be worse. It may adversely affect oil pressure, especially at start ups when it's crucial to get that oil pressure up.
 

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.....In reality a larger filter might be worse. It may adversely affect oil pressure, especially at start ups when it's crucial to get that oil pressure up.
I would think the opposite would be true. If you have a larger filter area, oil should flow at a lower pressure instead of forcing it through a smaller filter area.

Irregardless, were talking small changes here which I would think would be fairly insignificant.
 

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Longer duration that the pump will suck dry and the bearings will starve. 80-90% of wear (assuming a well running, well maintained engine otherwise) occurs during startup when oil pressure has to build up again, and in this application where there's no way to prime it, it becomes more of a problem. Now, taking out the EFI/PCM fuse and cranking 4-5 times is the next best thing to filling the filter, but the same problem occurs. More media may have helped on an old engine but these modern engines run so well there's not much to filter.

Benefits
-slightly increased capacity (250ml or less increase)
-supply pump with a solid flow of oil (no cavitation) for longer period of time
-opposite effect of above if filter is empty, require longer run time to fill with oil and supply pump with uncavitated oil
-supply pump with oil for longer period of time when in high speed cornering or otherwise extreme driving maneuvers and the oil sloshes up in the block/pan and sump sucks dry
-act as a pressure accumulator and possibly dampen pressure pulses and stabilize oil pressure (although i have no evidence of that, just speculation without research/testing)
 

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In the usual way or by cranking it without spark/fuel? I don't see how you can get oil in the filter and spin it on without it getting all over you and spilling out.

Furthermore, if you get a relocation kit you can A) put it anywhere convenient and in a cool air stream, and B) increase capacity by another half to maybe even a liter.
 

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In the usual way or by cranking it without spark/fuel? I don't see how you can get oil in the filter and spin it on without it getting all over you and spilling out.

Furthermore, if you get a relocation kit you can A) put it anywhere convenient and in a cool air stream, and B) increase capacity by another half to maybe even a liter.
Considering the filter screws in on its side, I would think you can have at least 1/3 its capacity full of oil (instead of starting bone dry).

As far as a relocation kit, I think that's a bit overly complicated, not to mention introducing a few more potential leak points along the way. After all, for the 95% of us, we're just driving econoboxes to the store or to work and not running the 24 hours of Le Mans.

I just thought using a larger oil filter was a simple, elegant and most likely a no additional cost way of adding about 8 oz of oil to the usual 3.75 quart capacity (approx + 6% volume). As I said earlier, somewhat insignificant but in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
In the usual way or by cranking it without spark/fuel? I don't see how you can get oil in the filter and spin it on without it getting all over you and spilling out.

Furthermore, if you get a relocation kit you can A) put it anywhere convenient and in a cool air stream, and B) increase capacity by another half to maybe even a liter.
You can put a fair bit of oil in the filter and spin it on without really leaking, especially if the filter has an anti-drain back valve. I do it on all my cars and it really doesn't make a mess, course all the cars have accessible filter mounts. Our old Frontier, not so much.

Yes, a remote would be optimal, but that too much work for what the Note is for our usage.
 

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I just thought using a larger oil filter was a simple, elegant and most likely a no additional cost way of adding about 8 oz of oil to the usual 3.75 quart capacity (approx + 6% volume). As I said earlier, somewhat insignificant but in the right direction.
So speaking of oil capacity. For the DIY'ers, are you just putting in 4 liters or actually measuring 3.75 quarts? With larger cars I wouldn't think twice, but this sucker is so tiny I don't want to do harm. I would think the larger Maxima filter would be another good choice for this reason. Your thoughts/experience?

I recently did my oil, did the bigger filter and added the full 4 qt. The oil is definitely over the full marks on the dipstick. Seems to be working well so far.
 

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So speaking of oil capacity. For the DIY'ers, are you just putting in 4 liters or actually measuring 3.75 quarts? With larger cars I wouldn't think twice, but this sucker is so tiny I don't want to do harm. I would think the larger Maxima filter would be another good choice for this reason. Your thoughts/experience?

I recently did my oil, did the bigger filter and added the full 4 qt. The oil is definitely over the full marks on the dipstick. Seems to be working well so far.
What I always do (when I do my own oil change) is to go by the dipstick level. I'd pour the last 1/3 of the quart bottle a little at a time until I get a full indication on the dipstick.

Overfilling your crankcase, in most cases, is a lot worse than underfilling. When you overfill, it's possible that the crankshaft will act like an egg beater on the oil and converts the liquid oil to foam. Keep in mind that the car just doesn't operate on level ground, it may look OK when you check it, but may be creating foam when you are on an uphill or downhill grade.

Simply put, overfilling is bad.
 

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Ha!

Now that's funny right there.

Overfilling by a quart is BAD! Overfilling by a quarter of a quart hardly makes a dent in things. Take a look at your oil pan, roughly 10"x10", that's a 100 square inches of space. Now take a quarter of a quart of oil - that would be 8 ounces and spread that over a 100 square inches. Do you really think you are raising the oil level enough to cause a huge foaming issue? Rubbish!

Ah, but let's put the bigger filter on along with the extra 8 ounces of oil, I am not sure how much oil that extra 3/4" of filter holds but a little bit of math could figure it out. So now we don't even have the full 8 ounces in the oil pan spread out over the 100 square inches.

If you're really running the wheels off one of these Notes or plugging in a turbo, then you probably should consider putting in a different filter arrangement. An easy one to add is the Ford filter on a remote mount plumbed back to the original oil filter mounting on the block. The only things you have to worry about is keeping the IN/OUT of the adapters straight and finding the room for everything.

On a secondary note, what's the preference in oil with these cars now? At 5k, I changed over to a normal spec synthetic but as the oil change is coming up again here soon, I am leaning towards the new Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic. It claims to be the cleanest oil on the market right now. Any reasonable input on this one?
 
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