Largest battery that will fit 2015 Versa SV stock battery tray?

To begin with, don't vary at all from the OEM battery size without a willingness to be doing slight fabrication to pull it off. Like what is needed on OP battery right now. Or, create a short tab of metal to extend the reach so the battery cable tension is relieved to not have the problem. Major problem not.

Then go online and look up battery charts or group sizes to then get what the industry considers the normal dimensions of all the sizes and go through them.

My '11 model uses a T4 but too expensive and hard to find and I went to a 47 series to replace it but slightly narrow on the width, I had to cobble up a quick spacer to get the bottom clamp to hold the battery in place tight like needed. 5 minute job. The switch also uses a common cheaper battery that saves $30-$40 depending on where you get it. And has somewhat higher cranking amps.

You do NOT want the largest that will fit, you want the one that is as big as possible BUT it has at least the same but you are wanting more cranking amp, sometimes it can be a smaller one.

I switch battery types all the time but only the once to then keep it the same after that, I tend to pick one that fits in multiple cars so when one goes bad I can quickly get that car back up and running fast. I also look at cost, I've saved as much as $80 with every battery by dumping the oddball sizes they pick just to get more money out of you. Remember, you are also picking for the future if you are keeping the car. I also if forced to go deeper by circumstance then look for room to put in a battery plate to use even the biggest ones made, it allows you later to put in just about any battery size out there.

I create cable extensions, custom terminals, and bus bars as needed along with custom mounts and box resizing, not rocket science. You only do it once and done, I keep cars until they go to the scrapyards so I get the benefit.

Group 47 at least on some of the earlier cars can need a spacer at the bottom to shim the clamp up tighter or the battery can come loose to flop around pretty easy. The clamp grabs but not tight enough, the new battery size is narrower in that direction.

The parts stores simply pick a close battery and let it go at that. They pick before any new battery size has gotten into the battery market to be available and why they often don't list the right one. Later when they get access to the new size they update the computers with it (you hope, often it does not happen). A car can come out with a new battery size and the stores may not get it for a year, so they have to sub something else.

Always fun when you have to change batteries for the customer like now and you put the so-called 'right one' in place to see what you are going to end up with and then look stupid in front of the customer when it doesn't fit exact and you likely have also broken old clamp parts because they NEVER touch the cars for a thing.

I got good at doing most batteries in under 5 minutes but the usual disclaimer always came and I got a yes from the customer after telling them parts might break and the new battery might not fit. You have to get them ready and it avoids litigation when they sue claiming you broke their car.

We used to put in headlight bulbs in housings too until the customers started blaming us for breaking things we never broke. Got blamed once myself when I went to do one but the light fixture was broken so I couldn't, I saw it and told customer I could not change it because it was broken and she promptly blamed me and sued for it. Tried to anyway. Pretty sure she knew it already by the way she acted, trying to get somebody else to pay for the light fixture.

As usual I have meandered, back to batteries.........

Yes, they upcharge and no law against it as long as they don't claim the battery is Nissan branded. Apparently most customers never question it at all. I always wondered myself.

The OEM dealers also do hard parts like alts and starters. belts, water pumps too, it gets them the parts store lifetime warranty which is honored typically even with the warranty user being a business which the fine print actually says cannot be. But it does. The parts stores push taking care of client businesses as hard as they did the OTC customers.

One reason I quit parts, they cared more about other business employees more than they did their own in house ones. Dunno how they are now but when I was there the warranty policies wasted many millions of dollars a year. The store policy was so tilted from when I had done parts 15 years before I could not believe they could even make any money. An example....I sold a guy a creeper, he then DESTROYED it, put a 700 pound engine on it to break the back and next his dog tore 3 wheels off of it then he brought it back claiming it was 'defective'. I denied full cash back and he went over store's manager to district manager who wrote me up and threatened to fire me for 'not taking care of the customer'. Those people were f-cking crazy. I watched people too incompetent to grasp what was wrong with a vehicle to repeat buy as many as 5-6 of a part that had nothing to do with the problem, then they brought it back saying it was 'bad' when there was nothing wrong with it if they didn't break it themselves of course. A lot of that went on as well and the parts warrantied as bad even if the guy broke 3 of them too. Why a bunch of our vendors were organizing to mass sue when I quit, they claimed 90% or more of the parts returned as bad had nothing wrong with them. (Other than somebody too stupid to even know what was a good part.)

Employees had what at first was a nice 40% discount on parts but in the three years I was there the parts increased so much in price the discount became a joke, I could go to Rockauto and get the equivalent of 80% off. Since then I buy NOTHING OTC any more, the prices are third world country prices.

fcar1999ta said:

I have seen those posts. Some say T4, T5, 96R, and 121R. So, again I ask, what is the largest that will fit.

Click to expand...

T4. That was your answer, plain and simple.

If you want the post terminals, tie-down clamp or battery blanket and other OEM accessories to no longer function correctly, you can pick any other size. But unless you're doing a crazy audio build of some kind (and the big 3 wasn't enough somehow), are removing the battery tray/relocating the battery, or are simply too lazy to make sure your batteries don't sulfate, there is no need for this. There are numerous stores that sell T4 batteries out there, where I live I can get a T4 from Interstate AllBattery Center for $175 that is over 500CCA so nearly twice the OEM rating (it gets cold here in Indiana).

All sizes of “T” batteries have the exact same base footprint as the “H” batteries, but they are about 3/4-inch (17mm) lower in height.

The T5 = Group 96R, T6 is also called "L2".
T5 will fit a T4 slot, I apologize as I thought all of this was common knowledge. You can Google "T4 batteries size difference" in 0.2s if you're so worried about mixed answers in this forum.

Keith responded above with the group size, and is correct that the 51R is for 1st gens with the CVT only (smaller battery). Not rocket science.

TLDR: Yes a T5 will fit. So will a T4 with higher CCA if that's the only advantage you're seeking.

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