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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Since I removed the splash guards at 37,120 miles in August, I've been hearing a clunking sound from the rear of the car. I thought the sound was caused by a loose screw, clip, or something else related to the splash guards. However, when I looked under the car, I noticed that the left rear shock is leaking oil; it seems to be coated with oil as the entire shock is covered with dirt.

This is the first time that I've seen a bad shock. My family and I have driven previous cars to almost 200,000 miles and we have never had bad shocks. Thus, it's shocking and disappointing that this shock has gone bad so soon. My car has only 39,800 miles or so right now.

My coworker/friend thinks that these "OEM" or "original" shocks are actually just from the low bidder when Nissan was soliciting bids for the rear shocks. Nissan bid out the rear shocks to the cheapest bidder and called them "OEM". He suggested getting Monroe or Gabriel shocks as they should be way better than the "OEM" shocks.

I'll change the brake fluid in the coming weeks as it's almost at 40,000 miles. I plan to change both rear shocks at that time. I hope to find shocks that give a smoother ride. The Versa Note has a pretty rough ride. Yeah it's a tall car so, ideally, it shouldn't have too much body roll/lean to keep it from tipping over but I want a softer ride.
 

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TKO, can you post some pics?

Have always used OEM or KYB. Both, with success. Have seen Monroe's - on other cars - rust prematurely.

If you push down on the rear corner of the car above the shock, what does the car do resistance-wise and rebound-wise?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TKO, can you post some pics?

Have always used OEM or KYB. Both, with success. Have seen Monroe's - on other cars - rust prematurely.

If you push down on the rear corner of the car above the shock, what does the car do resistance-wise and rebound-wise?
I don't know how to post pictures here. I have tried attaching pictures but the forum wouldn't allow it, even when I shrank them down to the size restrictions.

I am apprehensive of purchasing OEM shocks because the shock started leaking oil so soon. I can't be replacing shocks every 37,000-38,000 miles. Who knows where the OEM shock is made. Mexico? China? I doubt it's made in Japan.

I may consider KYB. The KYB shock's about the same price as the Monroe and Gabriel. Plus, according to the KYB website, the KYB shock's country of origin is Japan. I sent e-mails to Monroe and Gabriel asking where their shocks are made, hopefully in the U.S. or Japan. I'll provide their answers here in this thread.

I pushed down on both rear corners above the shock. Both corners had similar bouncing and rebound, which was somewhat surprising considering only the left rear shock is leaking oil. I will push down on the rear corners again in the coming days.
 

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Did it push down easily and come right back up (1 time) - and done? Okay, then.
Or was there considerable resistance to downward pushing? Not good then.
Or were there multiple bounce-moves before it stabilized? Also, not good then.

Straighten your arms and shove down with your palms (facing away from your body) methodically-forcefully (but not overly fast).
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I changed the brake fluid on Saturday. When I took off the rear passenger-side tire, I pushed up on the shock and it didn't go up but when I took off the rear driver-side tire, I pushed up on the shock and it went up about an inch or two. The rear driver-side shock was coated in oil while the rear passenger-side shock was not. I bought two Monroe OESpectrum shocks from AdvanceAutoParts.com on Black Friday for $82.82 out-the-door.

5673 :: e-Catalog :: MONROE® SHOCKS & STRUTS

Monroe.com and most other websites do not have the Versa Note so I searched for the Versa sedan since they use the same rear shocks. I think only KYB has both the Versa Note and Versa sedan listed on their website.

Turns out that both rear OEM shocks are made in China while the front OEM struts are made in the U.S.A. Adds credibility to my friend's claim that Nissan just solicits the low bidder for the OEM shocks.
 

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Sounds like we have to get Nissan dealers involved.40k km where shocks and bearing are going it must be manufacturers fault.
Then we must complain. I had cars and only had to change shockers at around 200k. Toyota,and Mazda.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Sounds like we have to get Nissan dealers involved.40k km where shocks and bearing are going it must be manufacturers fault.
Then we must complain. I had cars and only had to change shockers at around 200k. Toyota,and Mazda.
I'm in the U.S. so I stated my odometer readings in miles. Seems like most people here are from Canada so should I post the readings in kilometers instead?

That being said, 37,000-40,000 miles is a very short useful life for shocks. 40,000 km would be even worse but at least it would've been under warranty (36,000 miles = 60,000 km roughly). I was just outside warranty.

Oh well. I installed the shocks this past Wednesday and Thursday. So far, the noise is gone. The ride is still somewhat stiff so I can definitely feel bumps, cracks, and other road imperfections but that's probably just because the suspension is tuned from the factory to be more stiff than soft. I happened to take the car off-roading today; drove on a dirt road during a light rain so got some mud but the car seemed to hold up fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
For the last several months, I've been hearing a clunking noise driving over bumps/cracks/bumpy roads coming from the rear of my car. I don't believe the noise is from the shocks. The shocks are not leaking oil and it doesn't bounce excessively when I push down on each corner.

I took a peek last night at the right rear torsion beam bushings. They look cracked but it seems I need to unbolt the torsion beam to get a better look at them. I also haven't looked at the left bushings yet. Unbolting the torsion beam doesn't seem difficult; it seems to be fastened to the frame with bolts so I can just remove them with ratchets and wrenches.

Has anyone had to replace the torsion beam (or rear sway bar) bushings in their Note (2014-present) or second-generation Versa sedans (2012-present)?
 

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Wow, if it werent for bad luck seems you would have none. Do you also have a cvt? Maybe you haul heavy stuff or drive 50 mph down dirt or unpaved roads?

Since it seems you are the only guy with these problems could be your car was a flood car.

No, Ive never had to unbolt or replace bushings in any of the eco boxes Ive own. That is major surgery and you will need larger ratchets and braker bars for those fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow, if it werent for bad luck seems you would have none. Do you also have a cvt? Maybe you haul heavy stuff or drive 50 mph down dirt or unpaved roads?

Since it seems you are the only guy with these problems could be your car was a flood car.

No, Ive never had to unbolt or replace bushings in any of the eco boxes Ive own. That is major surgery and you will need larger ratchets and braker bars for those fittings.
Haha yes I have a CVT but I do not haul heavy stuff nor do I drive on dirt or unpaved roads much, certainly not fast.

I doubt my car was a flood car. I bought it brand new but it already had 200+ miles on it when I bought it; the dealer did a swap with another dealer ~200 miles away to acquire my car. The drive between those 2 dealers involves lots of steep hills and I'm sure they did not baby this thing while driving it from one dealer to the other, putting on excessive and unnecessary wear and tear on the car before I even bought it. Just thinking about it makes me cringe. Plus, the dealer that originally had this car is located in the middle of the desert (Imperial, California, I believe), which would explain all the dirt and dust inside the engine bay at the time I bought it.

I'm also unaware of having to replace bushing in any of my family's cars but maybe my dad did that I don't know of. Yes, I agree that I shouldn't have to replace the bushings, at least not this soon (my car has less than 50,000 miles). Doesn't seem like they should need regular maintenance/replacing. Seems like a pain that they would go bad and needing to replace them but if I need to replace them then I guess I'll get around to replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I didn't hear any clunking noises when I drove the car today. Maybe it's all in my head :shrug:

I'll keep my ears open if the noise comes back but I'll hold off on checking the bushings for now.

I heard about checking the rear sway bar bushings from this YouTube video. Listen to ChrisFix at 4:15 mentioning rear shocks or sway bar bushings as causing banging or knocking noises when driving over bumps:
 

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Leaking Shock - More info

This week dealership did 24 month service for my 2015 Versa Sedan, odometer 4,491 miles. Inspection found LEFT REAR SHOCK LEAKING DUE TO DEFECTIVE INTERNAL SEAL. Final paperwork stated: REPLACED SHOCK, VEHICLE OPERATING AS INTENDED, NO FURTHER LEAK. Covered by warranty.
Hope this helps others!

FYI - This 2015 vehicle was manufactured in Mexico in Oct 2014. Parked in dealers multi story garage until I purchased it April 2016, with odometer 25 miles. Said they rotated cars in the garage.
 
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