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So I have to replace my 2007 lower right again and the LCA's from rock auto don't seem to come with replacement bolts for the ball joint. Last time I went to the hardware store and I think the guy sold me the wrong bolt (3 years ago or so). Anyone have any info on the specs of this bolt/nut? I'd like to order one online for my install next weekend.

Last resort I'll go to the dealer but I can't seem to find a parts diagram with any bolt info.
 

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Go to parts store and order the balljoint by itself, they commonly come with the bolt, then measure it and don't buy the part.

Hardware stuff may work, I use them on my Fords, that bolt needs to be like grade 8 though. Assuming we are talking the one that holds top of stud in place. I used non-metric size on my Ford as it was only .005" bigger and perfect to still hold the stud in place. The Nissan looks smaller, you'll have to determine what size to use. Use a self-locking nut on the end of it.
 

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Well, I worked some of this out.

The ball-joint pinch bolts are 10mm diameter, 1.25 pitch, flange type head (and flange nuts too), 55mm length, but the kicker is that they're 12.9 grade. That's the insanely strong, probably 20% or more stronger than "grade 8", and nobody, not even the specialist fastener stores, seem to be able to get them as stand-alone items in this configuration.

Well, the local Nissan dealer has them, but their list price is $16 for the nut, and I think it was $7 for the bolt (yeah, you read that right, nut's twice the price of the bolt, but the nut is what the book calls for replacing every time!)

NAPA sells a balljoint kit, which includes a greasable balljoint, and the nut/bolt, for about $40.

Other than that, I can get a 12.9 grade bolt that's 60mm long, 1.25 thread and 10mm diameter, but only in a cap head with allen/hex head, not with the flange, nor with a regular hex-bolt head.

I plan to go for the latter option, along with washers. Such bolts seem to be under $2 here: https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0154272
They're also available to me locally in Denver from AAA Metric, I'm told (I'll find out if they're as good as their word tomorrow...)
 

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I would use grade spec washers there, the allen head tends to sink into the washer and you want washer hard enough to keep that from happening so bad as it will relieve torque over time.

But then I would be reusing the original parts if that high a spec, you will know when torquing the part back up if the bolt gives any.

If using the allen then use a new hex tip of the EXACT correct size to fit in it as an older one may lean sideways to strip the corners out and then you find yourself drilling out a grade 8 bolt, not fun.
 

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All good points.

I actually used the extra length to add a vibration-proof nut acting as a lock nut. Probably overkill, but my new bolt was 60mm, rather than 55, so it filled up the extra space :)

Interestingly the torque on these 10mm bolts is 41 lb-ft on the older ones, and twenty something on the newer cars. Not really sure quite why it need to be so damn strong, but I guess it's the wrenching and yanking of the wheels pulling on the ball joint.
 

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I tend to overtorque that bolt a little bit due to the excess strength, it guarantees the knuckle never bangs up and down on the ball joint stud notch where the bolt traps it in.

The strength is to keep that small battering point at the notch from battering down enough material to be able to let BJ stud slip by to fall out. Messy that if it ever happens. There's really not much material there at all holding that together.

I have gone up in size on the bolt on Fords which use the same size, hardware store grade 8 and 7/16" with a drill bit to slightly enlarge the hole, it really doesn't, more like simply trues the edges up a bit or a light dusting out of the hole. It might remove .003"-.005" which isn't spit. The bigger bolt then fits really tight to grasp even more of the BJ, I have the stud in place to barely nick the notch even more if the hole lines up that way. Lightly tap the bolt in and bulletproof and the bolt is 1/5 the price of the Ford part.

Having some length sticking out is fine but run the steering from limit to limit as a clearance check to make sure the extra doesn't strike anything. Some engineer may have put a brakeline bracket in there close or the like.
 

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Oh my! Again, that's all very helpful, thanks! I said "oh my" because the pirates I bought this from had rebuilt most of the left side (but not replaced the bent control arm!) and had used an under-sized bolt for the clamp. I suspect it was just hardware store junk too.

I'll check out the steering locks...
 
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