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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my Versa recently had the TCM replaced to try to fix some problems with the CVT. Nissan dealer said that it didn't fix the problem, and they ordered a transmission. I was driving the car on the highway after they replaced the TCM and it was revving really high just to keep speed going, transmission wasn't working correctly, even less correctly than before they replaced the TCM (yeah, wtf). Now I am in a loaner Prius from the dealership while they wait to get the new CVT and install it. Hoping that the CVT they get is one that's been tweaked since 08.

All of this is under warranty and free, very impressed with the dealership service, aside from the issues and long waits for parts from Nissan (holidays.)
 

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Hope you get your V back soon! Parts take forever this time of year. It took 4 days to get me a headlight. I can't imagine how long a tranny takes. Its not like they keep them in stock on the shelves.
 

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Actually, Nissan has plenty of stock on CVT's. Mostly because they suck. Horribly. All cars should be manual shift IMO anyways. lol. We do atleast one or two a week
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually, Nissan has plenty of stock on CVT's. Mostly because they suck. Horribly. All cars should be manual shift IMO anyways. lol. We do atleast one or two a week
Any idea why the new TCM would make the car run so much worse than when it had the old TCM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I dont understand why they would put a TCM in in the first place. We havent done one. Just trannys
Said they thought the problem was the TCM not communicating properly with the ECM (which ironically is probably what is happening now...before it just slipped sometimes and was kind of weird now I had to give it to them because it's basically undriveable.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I dont know. Maybe nissan usa is going on a different procedure than nissan canada
Are you guys putting in the latest version of the CVT or does it depend on model year? I assume they've been tweaking and improving it a bit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bump. Jbeau would really love an answer to that question...thanks!
 

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Just posting this in case some one searches and finds this thread. Info about swapping the transmission.

-- Mating Engine & Transmission --

The best method is outside car, which means pulling out the entire drivetrain.

This was a big gotcha for me. Once you unbolt the two they come apart relatively easy. Putting them back together is the same way. The dowels will align them and they should slide together flush. DO NOT USE THE BOLTS TO BRING THEM TOGETHER. If they are not coming together correctly its not the dowels, its the alignment of the torque convertor or the clutch. I did not realize this and on the 3rd time of using the bolts to draw them together we heard a large bang which sounded it came from inside the transmission. Because I didn't want to chance having to do all this work again I went ahead and bought another transmission ($850 used).

We then came up with a much better process. Put both the engine and transmission upright on the ground. Turn the engine crankshaft until one of the holes on the flywheel lines up with the cutout for the starter(remember only turn the engine clockwise when looking at it from the crankshaft pulley side, if you miss a bolt, just keep turning until it comes around again). Put the torque converter inside the transmission and try putting it on the shaft. Very important to note the cutouts at the back of the shaft that match the shape of the tabs on the torque converter. You should be able to push the torque convertor all the way back to the point that you can't stick your finger behind the torque converter. Once the converters in place, rotate it until one of the 4 studs lines up with the hole in the flywheel you can see through the starter cutout. Then slowly bring the engine and transmission together. Let the 2 dowels line them up, and make sure the torque converter slides through the hole. Then the engine and trans should be able to be pushed flush against each other by hand. At this point the torque converter will probably be a little too far back to get a nut on the stud. You can reach in with your finger and pull it forward against the flywheel. Then start putting nuts on. I used some locktite as I put them on. You need to put the nuts nearly all the way on the thread, don't make them tight just yet, but if you don't put the nut all the way down they will rub against the engine block as you rotate the flywheel to get to the next studs.

Since I replaced the transmission the service manual says several times not to drive the car until its been hooked up to Nissans CONSULT III diagnostic system so that some memory can be cleared. The car has about 150 miles on it so far and the transmission behaves fine and theres no warning light or anything present, so I don't think that part is necassary.
 
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