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Opened as in unlocked or physically opened? And which door?

If its just doors unlocked, that is actually normal.
 

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One has to be able to speak logical english to clearly state the problem correctly, that request is utter gibberish where I come from.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The rear hatch will only open if the passenger door is physically open,otherwise the hatch will not open thanks guys
 

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First question: Have you done anything to the car since the last time the hatch opened O.K.
Any possibility the car has been in a wreck (body tweeked) or does the car have a lot of rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The car has never been wrecked i am the original owner and no rust is a California car and i have not done anything to make the hatch stop working..help guys
 

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Not disputing you but..... that is really strange. There should be no connection between the passenger door position and the ability of the rear hatch to open.

Can you feel the latch release when you pull on the lever in the center of the hatch? I guess I'm asking if it is the catch that isn't releasing or if the hatch is physically stuck in the closed position.
 

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The rear hatch will only open if the passenger door is physically open,otherwise the hatch will not open thanks guys
My wife has a 2009 versa sedan, and the electronic trunk lock would no longer activate to open the trunk, and we needed to use the key to get it open. When I read the shop manual, it said that the control module for the trunk lock was located in the passenger side door. I was not about to start tearing the car apart and spending my time in order to fix it, and it was a lot easier just to keep using the key. If your vehicle's door control module is located in the passenger side door it is possible that one of the electrical connections has dislodged and is not functioning properly. Just a shot in the dark...............good luck!!
 

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I'm having the same exact issue! It's really weird. I have replaced the door lock actuator in the passenger door and the one in the hatch itself. The hatch only open if the passenger side door is physically opened. Otherwise, it is not! Please help us!

P.S: It also open fine with the key fob.
 

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I only have the '11 service manual but a lot of things are the same from like '07-'11.

The service manual shows that the interlock that locks the trunk or hatch to not work when the doors are locked runs a ground from the trunk or hatch latch through one of the front door latches to get to ground. Driver side if non-power windows, and pass side if power windows; the DOOR latch must be electrically unlocked to enable the trunk latch to work. If the front door is electrically unlocked then possibly a microswitch that did not fully switch to close and you have to positively open the door physically to complete that all the way. I've had that issue with Fords, on those the switch almost closes then goes into a machine gun stuttering on and off repeatedly until the switch fully gets into 100% closed to stop.

When the mechanical linkages the cars use in the doors get dry of lube they do not swing quite as far as when they are lubed well and move easily then. Then they just barely touch any limits rather than fully switching them one way or the other. Often only a few thousandths of movement short will do it. On the Fords I take the latch modules apart and relube them but they are made to destroy to get inside them and I had to figure out a way to break them open to be able to get them back together after done. Couldn't simply spray lube in there like some, the insides were compartmented in 3 sections to completely seal off parts unless the latch is opened up. Lubing those stopped all erratic action and for years and free latch at $150 each. Of course I had to do the work.

I wouldn't be surprised at all to find the Nissan one built the same, but the first thing to do would be to get spray grease and shoot up in there to see if anything loosens up to work better, that might fix it. The pass side door latch is what we're talking about here.

Focus on the pass side door latch as the problem there if the car has power windows. I haven't had any trouble on mine yet but I suspect I will be tearing into the Nissan latches before it is all over.
 

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If post #9 used a used latch then likely the same problem (dry of grease) still exists. The door physically being opened to let the trunk then work says the latch there IS the issue, the ground is not completing. A quick check would be to sort out the ground wire color there and ground it by itself at the latch connector to see if the latch then works.

The power pathway there is pin #30 of BCM > trunk or hatch latch > front door latch > to ground.

For what it is worth, if the wire is broken say in the door hinge area due to constantly flexing around, well, that can do it too.
 
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