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But that's a turbo motor... turbos build alot of backpressure, especially with internal wastegates and depending on manifold design, they need all the breathability they can get to make up for the backpressure at the manifold, and cats too.

You want something that will not be a restriction at high end, but not lose exhaust velocity at low end. Loss of backpressure isn't what causes you to lose torque, it's the exhaust gas velocity and scavenging you get from it that causes it. That's why in most cases having the exhaust come straight out the engine with no real exhaust path is bad for any street car. It will feel like a dog at low RPM (lots of noise, no go). I think 2.5" on a stock 1.8 is fine. I was running 2.5" straight pipe from cat back and i didn't lose any low end driveability yet can feel the gains up top. 2" should be fine for the 1.6. Initially i was straight pipe, too loud, put a cherry bomb on, better, but still too obnoxiously loud. Then i got a Dynomax muffler off a Corvette for free one day. Thought hmm, that would quiet it down enough and still not change driveability, so i put that on. Yes i have a set of stock LT1 Corvette tips coming out of my Versa... haha. It actually sounds good, and you can have a conversation or listen to music in the cabin now.
 

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So you eliminated the cats too? That will add some noise as well since the cats kind of act like baffling/resonators. You must have a shitload of drone. How's the powerband? Feel any low end loss?
 

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Yeah straight pipe draws too much attention. It would be fine if the car is fast, but it just makes it sound like a ricer unfortunately.
 

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I have an HR16 OBX 4-2-1 header i may let go...
 

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Which is why i'm going to sell it... i bought it for my MR18 and just by rough looks the bolt patterns looked the same, and they pretty much are except the top center hole is offset, plus the port spacing is actually different too. The pipes on the HR16 don't line up with the ports at all, you'd have to weld a new flange, and at the same time bend the pipes to fit the spacing of the MR motor. It's stupid little stuff they do to make things not cross compatible like this, like they should be.

I bought it because i like the better 4-2-1 design of it, but then i thought realistically any scavenging gains are going to be negated by cams that can't take full advantage of that. In fact i think that's a major limiting factory in why we don't seem to feel much gain on bolt ons like intake and exhaust, the cams are the bottleneck. Didn't the DC sports header get dyno gains of only like 3HP?? Now i know the scale for HP increases as displacement goes up and vice versa, but 3HP is still pretty low gain for a header, granted it isn't a good design, but at least gets rid of that choke point at the collector.
 

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That's why i'd like to get the HR16 header working on my MR... there is a fabricating shop around here that could probably make me up an MR18 flange with the proper spacing, then heat and bend the primaries to where they're supposed to be. The primaries are the same diameter as the MR18 header so there won't be a restriction there.
 
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Product Name - OBX Racing Sports


This is for the 1st generation body, if the tunnel has changed much in the new (and more compact) Note, it may not fit properly.

They upped the price not too long ago, i got mine for the original $195.
 

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That's what modern adaptive engine management does... adapt! For best performance and emissions.
 
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