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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
[SOLVED] Overheating Problem

I hope someone can help me my problem now.
I have a 2009 Nissan Tiida Sedan which has been with me for almost 5 years.
Days ago it started to overheat when Im on a stop/park but when im running on the highway it is not. I checked it earlier and did the following scenario.

Note: Outside temp at 43 degress celcius (im in the middle east).

1. Start the engine, start the A/C, opened the hood inspect the coolant compartment. Im sure the radiator has coolant as well.
2. Collant is at MAX ok, engine is running ok, A/C is running ok, rad fan is running ok. fan belt ok all spinning normal.
3. Slowly press on gas up to 2k rpm, done.

a. after 10 mins. engine overheats, red temp light up, rad fan still working, A/C stops (all still rotating, the A/C just stops running).
b. stop the engine, start it again, rad fan not working anymore.

What i noticed:
1. The coolant level increases over to MAX on the coolant compartment. Meaning, the coolant from the radiator got transferred to the compartment. After sometime the coolant level on the compartment goes back to normal.
Possibly, steam pushing the coolant away from the radiator?

I know this is not normal, even on a hot environment my car could usually take it as some other cars here. But what could be the problem here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I also would like to add that the cooling fan is slow, I noticed it after opening the hood and I can see the fins of the fan turning. I can't think of any issues that this coz before, I hear it from inside the car, now its quiet.
 

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The fan should be running at full speed before it begins to overheat. Is the electric fan tight up against the radiator? If it is turning as slow as you described (you can see the individual blades turning?), and with your continuously hot climate, i wouldn't rule out a fan final stage control module, this is on the electric fan shroud beside the fan, it looks like a heatsink. Heat can really fry electronics. Not only that but with AC on, the fan should be on high all the time even if you've just started it. Can't remember if the Versa defaults to high fan speed if AC is switched on...

Was the lower rad hose and upper rad hose hot? What's the mileage? It could be a water pump who's impeller has separated from the drive shaft, as it is only a press fit. I've dealt with a not pumping water pump many times.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I will try to rule out the fan speed, I have tested the fan again and its going at full. My mileage is 103,000 km. However, I dont have any idea why it quits when my engine is overheating. It its a water pump issue, how come Im not experiencing it during highway runs but only on stop?
The lower and upper are both hot.
DO you have a picture of this fan final stage control module?
 

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I will try to rule out the fan speed, I have tested the fan again and its going at full. My mileage is 103,000 km. However, I dont have any idea why it quits when my engine is overheating. It its a water pump issue, how come Im not experiencing it during highway runs but only on stop?
The lower and upper are both hot.
DO you have a picture of this fan final stage control module?
What you could do regarding the fan is to hot wire it so that it is on at full speed, and then test the car in stop and go traffic and see if it still overheats. If it does not, then you have a good indication that your cooling fan is not operating as it should. Good luck
 

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Cars don't need auxiliary cooling fans above 30km/h, generally speaking... Don't rule out a waterpump just because you're fine at highway speeds, the biggest flow demand will be when you are idling with hood closed and AC on in sitting traffic, not only do you have no airflow over the engine or rad, but you also have other heat demands like the tranny oil cooler inside one of the rad tanks (could be an external cooler, not sure in these as i have a 6 speed), and the condenser which inhibits natural airflow to the rad, leaving the electric fan to pull air across the condenser and rad. Do the rad hoses feel firm when the engine is hot? Does your rad filler neck or the cap itself have any coolant residue?

The overflow tank is there as an expansion tank, the rad cap regulates cooling system hot pressure, it needs to bleed off pressure at a point preset by a spring, usually bleeding off coolant in the process (on a fully filled system/rad) to do this.

Changing the thermostats (you have two) is a simple procedure, and it's a good time to do a flush (if needed) and replace hoses and other things.

It could also be a coolant temp sensor, also a simple test to verify it's integrity. Grab a Volt/ohm meter, unplug temp sensor (near engine side of upper rad hose, 2 pin connector), and probe the sensor terminals for resistance. The resistance reading will corelate to the current coolant temperature, which is one thing that will tell the fans to come on, and set the red light off in the dash indirectly.
 

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Huh... that's probably it then. What did you do on that car between then and now?
 

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Sounds to me like your T-stat is stuck, or your water pump failed.

when coolant isn't circulating it will get superheated in the engine block, begin to expand and eventually boil, pushing fluid back into the reservoir, making the level rise.

at highway speed, with a bad waterpump, there's still some circulation, and the airflow through the radiator will cool the fluid enough to hide the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Huh... that's probably it then. What did you do on that car between then and now?
Sounds to me like your T-stat is stuck, or your water pump failed.

when coolant isn't circulating it will get superheated in the engine block, begin to expand and eventually boil, pushing fluid back into the reservoir, making the level rise.

at highway speed, with a bad waterpump, there's still some circulation, and the airflow through the radiator will cool the fluid enough to hide the issue.
I have solved this problem.
If anyone search for tis I think this would help.

Issue: Overheating when on stoplight, but on highway speed temp is normal.

1. I checked the everything I can check.
a. I check the fan, it is working and rotating and though I should look into other issues.
b. I checked thermostat, it is working, fluid is circulating ( i checked by holding the lower and upper hose. upper is hot and lower is slightly less hot).
c. Water pump is almost new, almost a year or so and I can disregard this issue.
d. Relays, fuses, checked. all working. Found one missing relay but when i checked and verify, its not for the radiator fan so I can disregard this issue.

So I though of going back again to the first issue since for my average skills in troubleshooting I can't think of any other way to solve this.
I went back againt to the road, drive, stops, then car overheats. I opened the hood and fan still working. Stop the engine and start it, fan now not working. I pushed it with a stick and behold, it rotates.

So, went back to drawing board (start), checked the fan again.. compare it with my friends car and whoalla!! fan is rotating slower than normal, and in reverse!!! (fan blowing towards the radiator not sucking up the heat from it so all the heat from the engine is being transferred to the radiator. Be informed temp here in middle east now is around 49 degress celcius too hot!!!).

Went to a garage, changed the motor with a refurbished one and test. I drive, stop, parked and wait.. and wait till it overheats... and no overheating happens...

fan is turning like 4 times faster than before, now sucking up all the heat away from the radiator unlike before.

Readers, just so you know, if the gfan is working, it doesn't mean there is no problem. Check the fan speed, and the direction (it should suck away heat, not blow on the radiator).

Now, i am never worrying anymore about going on stops and parks... And my wife is pregnant so I am glad I have solved this issue once and for all or else we will be toasted inside the car with this kind of heat in M.E.


It hss solved my a/c problems as well. Now the air is cold compared before. It cools faster during the afternoon than before where i have to suffer heat inside the car before the a/c can suck up all the heat.

Total cost: $30 (installation of refurbished fan motor and installation included).
 

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Fan motor must have shorted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Fan motor must have shorted.
The fan motor is shorted but the motor is worn out as well. Time to replace it so I did.

And 07Versa6MT Thanks for helping me solve my problem. I can never do this without your inputs. Your suggestions are very precise and thorough especially with newbies like me. Thanks also to the forum.
 

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good catch.
 

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I have nissan tiida 2006 1.6 and am first owner the km is now 432000 and I was having over heat engine so I done head gasket qnd I change water pump qnd oil pumb and valve slea full over hool and I chat the radiator qnd I add dubl fan qnd new turmostat and new water pumb what happen is when the cooling fan start the car went off and I forget i have big battery also there is no sound system or anything just nor.al qnd I change new throttle body I still don't know what is the problem the over heat is gone coz of adding 2 fan but after that come is when the fan start for cooling or for ac the car went off even when am driving like something suck the Elictric fast any sujest
 
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