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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2007 versa hatchback.front parking and side lights not working,not getting power,does anyone know where the relay or fuse is.I checked all fuses.but they are good,so are the bulbs....thank you in advance
 

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To test for power and ground, make sure you have the lights plugged in, and turned on. You should have near battery voltage on the power wire and near zero volts on the ground.

It looks like the same relay and fuse feed the front combination lamps that feed the tail lamps, so if the tail lights work, it's not the relay or fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you know which relay it is.the tail lights work but maybe the relay is half bad and I'd like to change it.the tv g was a typing error.thanks again fo your help
 

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2007 versa hatchback.front parking and side lights not working,not getting power,does anyone know where the relay or fuse is.I checked all fuses.but they are good,so are the bulbs....thank you in advance
Just wondering how you checked all the fuses?? I usually take the fuse out of the holder, and use a multi tester to make sure that it is not blown. I have had some fuses in the past, that looked good to the naked eye, but had blown in an area of the fuse that was not easily visible by eyeballing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just wondering how you checked all the fuses?? I usually take the fuse out of the holder, and use a multi tester to make sure that it is not blown. I have had some fuses in the past, that looked good to the naked eye, but had blown in an area of the fuse that was not easily visible by eyeballing it.
Sounds good , I'll check again..but nothing in all three box locations mention parking lights.do you have any idea which one it could be
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just wondering how you checked all the fuses?? I usually take the fuse out of the holder, and use a multi tester to make sure that it is not blown. I have had some fuses in the past, that looked good to the naked eye, but had blown in an area of the fuse that was not easily visible by eyeballing it.
Sounds good , I'll check again..but nothing in all three box locations mention parking lights.do you have any idea which one it could be
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just wondering how you checked all the fuses?? I usually take the fuse out of the holder, and use a multi tester to make sure that it is not blown. I have had some fuses in the past, that looked good to the naked eye, but had blown in an area of the fuse that was not easily visible by eyeballing it.
Sounds good , I'll check again..but nothing in all three box locations mention parking lights.do you have any idea which one it could be
 

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In this case, the relay can't be "half working." The wires are the same coming out of it if I remember right. This relay is in the ipdm under the hood, which means the relays aren't serviceable.

I like using a test light to battery ground and making sure it shines bright touching both sides of the fuse. Using ohm meters and continuity tests will burn you eventually. Research voltage drop for details on that.

I don't believe these lights even shared a ground. I would pick the most easily accessible light that is out, use the method I mentioned earlier on checking voltage, or a test light. If you don't have power or ground, move farther up the circuit until you do, and it might lead you to the fix for the other bulbs at the same time.
 

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I like using a test light to battery ground and making sure it shines bright touching both sides of the fuse.
Can you use a standard test light or do you have to use the new "computer safe" test lights??
I'm just curious if I need to upgrade my test light to one that is "computer safe"??
Thank you in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
In this case, the relay can't be "half working." The wires are the same coming out of it if I remember right. This relay is in the ipdm under the hood, which means the relays aren't serviceable.

I like using a test light to battery ground and making sure it shines bright touching both sides of the fuse. Using ohm meters and continuity tests will burn you eventually. Research voltage drop for details on that.

I don't believe these lights even shared a ground. I would pick the most easily accessible light that is out, use the method I mentioned earlier on checking voltage, or a test light. If you don't have power or ground, move farther up the circuit until you do, and it might lead you to the fix for the other bulbs at the same time.
Thanks,I'll.check fuses that way.do you know where I can find the circuit?also could it be the switch on the steering wheel?it beeps when I turn it on so I assume its working.thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Look at fuse 37 - 10A in the IDPM
The rear lights are on and dash lights are on to.my fuses are not numbered .I checked 10a fuse in the middle of board .it was good.it was marked tail lights.I ran that self test on the idpm headlights worked but not front and side parking lights.thanks for reply
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The rear lights are on and dash lights are on to.my fuses are not numbered .I checked 10a fuse in the middle of board .it was good.it was marked tail lights.I ran that self test on the idpm headlights worked but not front and side parking lights.thanks for reply
Do you know if that means the Iron is bad ?
 

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No, don't upgrade! The led lights are almost worthless when it comes to testing circuit integrity. It barely takes any current to make the led work, like 24mA at the most. So if you use that on a circuit that's designed to take more than that, the light can illuminate with the presence of some current, but maybe not nearly enough that the circuit would need to operate. You get a false positive. If the light doesn't shine, then it's definitely bad, but if it does shine, the wires could be bad.

I think of them as a visual continuity tester, instead of the standard audible beeeeeep.

Always try to use the battery as your connection points. Battery ground is the only known good ground on the vehicle.
 

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Did these lights suddenly all stop working at the same time?

It means that the problem is either the ipdm, power or ground to the ipdm, power or ground to the lights, or the lights. Autoactive test helps determine if it's something between the switch and the ipdm, or the ipdm to the light, or other function. I'm not sure if those lights are part of the test or not. It would say in the service manual.

Pick a light and do the power and ground test at it. If you're missing power at the light using the method I mentioned, do the same test at the ipdm.
 
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