Keep us posted.
possible fix for front end clunk
i installed my front under brace today and i no longer clunk!
i noticed that the bolt that connects the brace is also the mount for the rear of the lower control arm. well the bolt is threaded down the whole thing and the thread were actually wore off in the middle were the control arm rides. with the threads being gone it would let the control arm move about 1/16th - 1/8th inch and cause a clunk.
i went to nissan and ordered new bolts for $4.74 for both. if the clunk comes back i will replace the bolts and go from there.
btw mine only clunked on right hand turns and going over a bump at the same time at almost any speed.
i noticed that the bolt that connects the brace is also the mount for the rear of the lower control arm. well the bolt is threaded down the whole thing and the thread were actually wore off in the middle were the control arm rides. with the threads being gone it would let the control arm move about 1/16th - 1/8th inch and cause a clunk.
i went to nissan and ordered new bolts for $4.74 for both. if the clunk comes back i will replace the bolts and go from there.
btw mine only clunked on right hand turns and going over a bump at the same time at almost any speed.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
how about some pix of those under braces bro:cornut:
I wonder if my problem is this "clunk" I keep reading about. After my car sits I back out of the parking spot/driveway and then I pull forward and as soon as I go forward I hear I guess a little clunk. I get nothing over speed bumps or wheel turned though.
Mine happens with i slowly pull out of my drive way with the steering wheel cut, it clunks real bad. You can feel it in the steering wheel.I wonder if my problem is this "clunk" I keep reading about. After my car sits I back out of the parking spot/driveway and then I pull forward and as soon as I go forward I hear I guess a little clunk. I get nothing over speed bumps or wheel turned though.
Is the clunk a problem at all . . . According to the 2007 Versa Nissan Service manual it's normal
This seems to be exactly what I am experiencing.
This can be found here http://www.courtesyparts.com/pdf/2007-Nissan-Versa.pdf on page 196 or 5-28Self-test feature
The ABS includes electronic sensors, electric
pumps, hydraulic solenoids and a computer. The
computer has a built-in diagnostic feature that
tests the system each time you start the engine
and move the vehicle at a low speed in forward or
reverse. When the self-test occurs, you may hear
a “clunk” noise and/or feel a pulsation in the brake
pedal. This is normal and does not indicate a
malfunction. If the computer senses a malfunction,
it switches the ABS off and illuminates the
ABS warning light on the instrument panel. The
brake system then operates normally, but without
anti-lock assistance. If the ABS warning light
illuminates during the self-test or while driving,
have the vehicle checked by a NISSAN dealer.
This seems to be exactly what I am experiencing.
good find. but i dont have abs
Did you installed the rear under brace? How hard was it?
they are both really simple.
for the rear you will need a 17mm socket and a 6" extention and an extra set of hands.
about 10mins to do the rear and 15 to do the front.
btw there is NOT nuts on the rear bolts.
for the rear you will need a 17mm socket and a 6" extention and an extra set of hands.
about 10mins to do the rear and 15 to do the front.
btw there is NOT nuts on the rear bolts.
please explain more. Sorry if im asking to many questions.btw there is NOT nuts on the rear bolts.
the 2 bigger bolts that are used to mount the brace thread stright into the chassis.
***QUICK HOW-TO*** (no pics)
FRONT:
1. get car on ramps, jackstands or lift (i used ramps).
2. hold brace up to car to find the bolts used.
3. remove 4 bolts (12mm) and stock "brace" towards rear mounting points.
4. remove 2 large nuts and bolts (will need 18mm socket, rachet, extension, 18mm closed end wrench and a 2nd set of hands).
5. put brace on using the 4 bolt first, finger tight.
6. press large bolt back into place while a helper rolls tire backwards to realign lower control arm.
7. tighten everything back down, dont forget 4 bolts.
optional...
8. test drive.
REAR...
1. get car on ramps, jackstands or lift (i used ramps).
2. hold brace up to car to find the bolts used.
3. remove 4 bolts (12mm) and stock "brace" towards front mounting points.
4. remove 2 bolts (rear mounting points) with 17mm socket, 6" extension and rachet.
5. mount brace with 4 smaller bolts, finger tight.
6. replace 2 larger bolts.
7. tighten everything down.
both are easier to do from the side of the car (behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel.)
FRONT:
1. get car on ramps, jackstands or lift (i used ramps).
2. hold brace up to car to find the bolts used.
3. remove 4 bolts (12mm) and stock "brace" towards rear mounting points.
4. remove 2 large nuts and bolts (will need 18mm socket, rachet, extension, 18mm closed end wrench and a 2nd set of hands).
5. put brace on using the 4 bolt first, finger tight.
6. press large bolt back into place while a helper rolls tire backwards to realign lower control arm.
7. tighten everything back down, dont forget 4 bolts.
optional...
8. test drive.
REAR...
1. get car on ramps, jackstands or lift (i used ramps).
2. hold brace up to car to find the bolts used.
3. remove 4 bolts (12mm) and stock "brace" towards front mounting points.
4. remove 2 bolts (rear mounting points) with 17mm socket, 6" extension and rachet.
5. mount brace with 4 smaller bolts, finger tight.
6. replace 2 larger bolts.
7. tighten everything down.
both are easier to do from the side of the car (behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel.)
Question- the under brace you talking about where can I find one..??i installed my front under brace today and i no longer clunk!
i noticed that the bolt that connects the brace is also the mount for the rear of the lower control arm. well the bolt is threaded down the whole thing and the thread were actually wore off in the middle were the control arm rides. with the threads being gone it would let the control arm move about 1/16th - 1/8th inch and cause a clunk.
i went to nissan and ordered new bolts for $4.74 for both. if the clunk comes back i will replace the bolts and go from there.
btw mine only clunked on right hand turns and going over a bump at the same time at almost any speed.
Uh, the ABS unit initiating at first roll is more of a vibrating rattle sort of noise not a clunk. Many Versa exhibit a clunk or solid click at a first move forward, it is from high mileage wearing the front wheel bearing enough to allow the bearing preload torque to fall off, the bearing then moves slightly on the axle stub. Nissan says to retorque the axle to correct number again (it will be slightly low) to get it back tight.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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