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LOL! I would hate having that sticking out in my trunk. I had a hard enough time w/ nothing in the trunk fitting two pieces of luggage back there.
 

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Well, i can pull it out relatively easily if i need to, but I have no kids or anything so I can use the backseat for luggage and not if need be.
 

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I didn't take a pic of my car when I got home, I was too tired to even think of that. One suitcase and carry on took up the entire back hatch (along w/ two cases of beer). The other checked bag and carry on had to go in the backseat. Thank goodness it was only two of us flying out, we wouldn't have fit anybody else or anymore luggage. Our cars trunk space is very small, lol.
 

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dang, maybe the hatch is smaller than the sedan, last weekend i went camping, in the trunk i had

a coleman 48 can ice chest
a large plastic tote
2 sleeping bags
a jansport backpak full of clothes
a set of crutches
a 4 man tent
queen size air mattress (rolled up)
air pump
and a pellet gun

still had room for more stuff
and a completely empty back seat
 

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Ya I find the trunk pretty small. If I take off the cargo cover then I can pile things up higher, but each of our luggage bags (checked bags) were huge and weighed the allowed limit of 50lbs! haha! Plus we each had a small carry on rolling luggage, and then bought 2 cases of beer. AND i always have a shovel, umbrella, blankets, emergency kit, shopping bags, and shopping bin in the car.
 

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Still have room for stuff and if all else fails just fold down the seats! Works for me! i have the bass off on amp just because i like to hear the lyrics sometimes not just the "boom boom" ha it still loud but not to the extreme! i also recently changed out all 4 door speakers & got rid of those nasty carboard speakers!!!!
 

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Mines small. But I have the factory headunit from an SL. The 6 disc one. JL audio 9-connector wiring, (4) 2-way infinity Reference speakers, Boston Accustics 5-channel amp, and a 200w 8" Kicker sub. Its small, but the sound is great, and that little sub kicks pretty hard too. the subs been moved to the left side of trunk. It sounds better that way. I did a factory intergration, and it was so, so, so, easy. I bought the sedan for the trunk use, so it wouldnt make sense to fill it up with some big subs, lol. All in all, im doing 400w total, and thats good enough for me.
 

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Yeah, LOL! My parents got it for me for christmas, when I got my first car.
 

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It's good to have just in case ;)

However, if something happens I'll be calling up Nissan (provided I still am under the warranty).
 

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Same here. I got 1yr and 10 months left.
 

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under-seat sub?

Hi!

My sister just got a brand new versa and loves it, but she misses the audio upgrades my father had installed in the old bonneville (which, amazingly, lived to 309,000 miles and didn't look it). She's given the old subwoofer and headunit to me, which I'm installing in my old school wagon (plenty of room for it, though I don't have the versa's fuel economy by a longshot).

In trade, I'm supposed ot help her upgrade her versa :)
Unlike the bonneville sedan, which not only had a large trunk but a lot of covered-up space that was awkward for cargo but great for a sub, the versa --as has been noted-- does not have excess.

Much as she'd love a 12" sub, she doesn't want to sacrifice the luggage space that she uses for long trips.

What are our options for under-the-seat subwoofers? How easy will it be to install?
Not looking to win any audiophile competitions here, just an upgrade over the stock sound system.
Do you recommend upgrading the speakers or headunit also? She's probably looking at a budget of $200, so if a cheap $100 aftermarket head unit won't be better than stock and it'll take a $500 radio to hear a difference, no reason to bother.
 

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Well my system is a factory intergration system. I wasnt looking for much either. I have the SL 6 disc head unit, JL audio wiring, infinity reference 2-way speakers, 5-channel boston acustics amp, and an 8" kicker sub. My 8" kicker sub as u can see in the pic, is about as big as a shoe box, and I will tell u, it will not fit under the seat. I will tell you that im planning on replacing the HU in the future, cause no matter how many times u try to tune the amp, it just dosent sound good at high volume, and u can tell that the HU is distorting before the speakers are. The HU has a range of 0-30, and 21-22 is the highest ur gonna get to where it still sounds good, and its not distorting, or sounds too high pitched. But thats my take. If she likes her music loud and clear, do not do a factory intergration, its not worth it. If she just wants it clearer, then go for it. Thats my two cents.
 

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Where is everyone grounding their amps I had a decent ground but it got stripped out and when I use my test light I get reaction off everything but ground
 

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Well since I just got it friday I'm still with stock headunit and it'll be awhile before I can upgrade that. But so everybody knows whats to be installed as I unhooked it out of my old s10 today in preparation for trying to sell it.

2 Dual 12" Subs in lighted and ported enclosure (yea that big thing you used to see in best buy lighted blue) RMS 800 Watts.
And have two options on my amp..havent decided either gonna run my 4 channel Jensen 320 Watt RMS or my Pioneer 720 Watt RMS.

If my former HB ( 97 Ford Escort ) is any reference, I'll probably use just the Jensen, as it was always enough for a bunch of boom. Could be heard from my house by my parents back then from over a mile away if they were outside and my windows down.

And yes the Jensen can run in 2 channel mode incase anybody was wondering.

Has anybody had to upgrade their electrical system yet in the process of adding in their "boom boom"
 

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Backseat support bolt. 16mm in the middle.
The sedans S is a little more tricky. There was only 4 bolts close enough to reach the amp, and all 4 were the same size, and were a hair to big. So I just made my own. Behind the seats, there is this metal bar in the middle of the backseats that goes from one side to the other side of the car. But I screwed in a piece of wood from that middle metal bar to the top, and mounted the amp up on that piece of wood. Somewhere on that metal bar, I took a screw and a washer, and screwed the ground wire onto the metal bar. It works fine that way too.
 

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APLPIX I think I'm going to stick with the Jensen amp, its a very low power pull (comparatively) and run it in 2 channel mode. It's always run the subs decently enough. Also so everybody knows I'm in professional sound to a degree (not mobile, but true professional I'm the lead singer of a band and our sound tech at same time so can answer some questions here and there on audio). The Jensen never undervdrove the subs to a degree that damage could occur (actually in my experience the Jensen was the nicer sound with those subs).

And everyone needs to remember this - if your amp cannot produce at least 1/3 the power of the RMS of your subs you risk under driving the sub. Voice coiled subs will always require more energy than non-voiced. And under driving a sub also over drives an amp producing more heat, audio distortion and eventually amp failure. Dont believe me? I'll try and take a picture of our pro audio subs and the amp that bit the dust from being overdriven.

Anyone installing any amp must always watch your "clip" lights. If its staying on or flashes alot to keep your audio lvl where you want it - you are over driving it and or have to high an input signal. And that annoying pop that comes along with clipping WILL destroy your sub coils/drivers on any speaker attached. PERIOD!!! May take awhile, but it will destroy them.

And just for questioning, as I said I'm pro audio, lol we just use power conditioners that act as CAPs on a power line, what would you recommend APLPIX?
 
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