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I rebuild the Ford ones for maybe $15 each and they then last longer than the OEM Ford ones do but haven't done a Nissan one yet.
 

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With 20 off thats a pretty good price for doing all four doors. I can't make up my mind if I want to go through the hassle for power windows or not. I'm definitely doing power locks this spring, and some speaker upgrades, but power windows I'm on the fence.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got a point, but Im one of those "while you are in there" type of guys. Ive already tinted the windows, upgraded the speakers and installed the vents above them.

Plan B would be to just get the 4 door lock kit and wireless alarm with monitor keyfob.
 

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If you do it I'd be most interested to see where you find a good place for the switches. I am having a hard time picturing where the big drivers switch panel could go and not look out of place, wonder if it would fit in the map pocket?
 

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I've been thinking about it all week and I'm thinking power windows probably are worth the work. Like you said, get it done while you are already in there. I wish ebay would give me one of those 20 off coupons... doing all four doors power locks and windows for under $100 is a pretty good deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So, when you go to the ebay home page you do not see an ad of a guy working on a car and the discount code if you spend 100 or more on auto stuff?

Once I make my purchase Ill post the code. I may end up using it to buy a new full size spare tire for my suzuki sidekick ljx. :|
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I got a tire for my other car. The code is or as CMOTORS217. Ive decided I rather get a set of door locks with an alarm system. They had a few for around 80 bucks. Im also checking with one of those alarm, window tint, pimp my ride places to see what they charge.
 

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I as usual could be totally full of crap but it seems like getting all that for $100 is screaming cheap Chinese crap to me.........................

AND after much repair of them you find out something else. Many of the motors used now are dead-end motors with no limit switches to cut them off, they have just enough (you HOPE! It CAN be a problem!) torque to get the window up then they dead head at the end of travel and stall the motor out until you release the switch. What that does is make power windows break about 5-10 times as much as manual ones do and even the best OEM ones. When winding a manual window by hand you instinctively back off as soon as you hit the end limit, you can feel it with your hand. The electric drive motor on power stuff feels no such compunction. It continues to drive until you let off and you can only hear the clunk as the window hits solid as a rock in the end of groove. That's after the fact and why power windows break regulators WAY more than manual do now, and it's added to the child protection feature many systems have now that break parts at the drop of a hat when the motor loads up hard, it's a child with head in window opening safety protection thing.

How I learned how to make Ford power windows not break on the average of one or two a year, a mark to stop at about 1/8" BELOW max up and you NEVER roll them the full 100% down any more either. BOOM! NO more breaking of the windows since doing it!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
:surprise Maybe you should only let adults in your vehicles? :grin

Plan B could be to use a small fuse on each one or a resettable braker.

Everything now days is from China and cheap. The big difference is the cost of including instructions in English. :nerd:
 

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No, China has the same problem we have here but in extremes. Some of their manufacturing is world class and possibly even better, look at their latest jet fighters. But a whole lot of it is very very bad in quality and the problem is in finding out who makes the good stuff. Take bearings for instance, some are really really good and sold by the makers to others who put their own brand names on the boxes and you have no idea they are Chinese parts. Most are crap though.

Looking at that set sold there, I can see multiple quality issues and things going wrong with it right off the bat. The universal type plastic drive pucks that adapt the actual manual units to the driven end of the drive will be stripping out in no time at all. You have to cut your shaft ends off to use them too so no going back if you don't like it. You need the extra thickness of the driven end circle in a space requirement and some doors will not prove to have it either. As well as a dead flat mounting for the driven end, many doors will not be flat around the shafts coming out of the door sheet metal. The switches are likely crap, window switches need to take a pretty good chunk of amp, I'm betting those burn out pretty quick.

That set takes the word 'universal' to new heights. They aren't kidding there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well..... Right now its an idea. No one has come forward to of purchased them yet to give any feed back. I examine what I order and read the instructions and search online. Even then I may power it up on the bench and play with it before its used.

Sometimes stuff I buy off ebay is exactly that, cheap crap that ends up going back, the garbage or resold as crap back on ebay.

Since this car has been around for a while grabbing the real parts from the junkyard and making them work should not be too much of an issue.
 

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I would be grabbing OEM stuff too, it may be crap but it likely is better crap (saying that with crossed fingers of course, the OEM world is not what it used to be).

Myself, I pretty much try to weed out the garbage before I ever waste any time on it, time being worth so much more to me instead of the money. I make often from $100-$200/hr. based commonly on what the outside market gets for their efforts on things. I try not to even touch anything without it making me $50/hr. I don't get paid that of course, but doing my own work it figures out at those numbers and often much higher than that.

Like when I stupidly wrecked one of the Foci, $5500 in damages and totalled by the estimates, I rebuilt it and back up running in 2008 for $600 my cost, the rest was my labor. It took a bit but the car has run perfectly since the work. The other one I have was wrecked by my son before I bought it and his insurance co. repaired, I've had to fix several shoddy things they did to it and they charged $4500 on less damage. My crap paint job on the first one is even lasting far better than the official Ford body shop job is. Anytime I compare like that it's funny as hell. They can't touch my work on virtually anything with all that training.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I wonder how the car companies do it? I mean I was in my oddy with the dome light on and I pushed the switch up with the windows up and for each one the dome light dimmed slightly. That would indicate there is no limit switch and its exerting power for nothing, right?

Since gas is still cheap and I got a bonus and 3 buck an hour raise Ive been driving the van. Nothing like having a new car with low miles ready to go in the driveway. >:D
 
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amc49
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