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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I have a 08 Versa and over the last few months I have had issues with it starting up. Sometimes it starts right up and other times it has a hard time starting and when that happens it is followed by the transmission shifting hard, sounds like it is slamming into gear. When it starts right up there are no issues with the transmission. Today it will not start at all either in park or neutral. Any ideas what it could be? Thanks.
 

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When you say it will not start, when you turn the key, does the engine crank? or is it Nothing happens?

I'll assume it cranks, but does not start for this diagnosis.
1)Turn off the radio in the car, a let the car sit for an hour.
2) Get in the car, shut the door (you want it quiet in the car)
3) Turn the key one position forward. Do you hear the fuel pump turn on? it's located under the rear seat, and kinda sounds like a buzzing sound. The sound should last for a few seconds.
4) If you hear the fuel pump, try and start the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. Yes it cranks but does not start. I do hear the fuel pump kick on.
 

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When you say it will not start, when you turn the key, does the engine crank? or is it Nothing happens?

I'll assume it cranks, but does not start for this diagnosis.
1)Turn off the radio in the car, a let the car sit for an hour.
2) Get in the car, shut the door (you want it quiet in the car)
3) Turn the key one position forward. Do you hear the fuel pump turn on? it's located under the rear seat, and kinda sounds like a buzzing sound. The sound should last for a few seconds.
4) If you hear the fuel pump, try and start the car.
Hi, yes the car cranks just does not start. I can hear the fuel pump kick on but car still will not start.
 

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I am continually amazed at the number of people who will still try to shotgun the problem when the car has a computer on it that will often tell you what is wrong with it. No, we don't go there.
 

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I am continually amazed at the number of people who will still try to shotgun the problem when the car has a computer on it that will often tell you what is wrong with it. No, we don't go there.
Yes however the only thing that comes up is a faulty sensor in the tire, nothing else. I am not a complete idiot but thank you for your help.
 

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One other thing you can try is cycle the key a few times (get the fuel pump to activate a few times in a row)
Then try and start the car. Sometimes a fuel pump gets lazy and does not build enough pressure fast enough to start the car. There is a one way check valve on the fuel pump that when it starts to fail, causes hard/long starts.

Do you have a code reader handy by any chance? I wounder if any pending codes could point us the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One other thing you can try is cycle the key a few times (get the fuel pump to activate a few times in a row)
Then try and start the car. Sometimes a fuel pump gets lazy and does not build enough pressure fast enough to start the car. There is a one way check valve on the fuel pump that when it starts to fail, causes hard/long starts.

Do you have a code reader handy by any chance? I wounder if any pending codes could point us the right direction.
I do not have a code reader handy however I did take it to the auto parts store and they said the only reading was for a faulty tire pressure sensor and that was just this past weekend. I started checking the battery and there is a lot of corrosion around the terminals so I just cleaned them real good and tightened them up and it fired right up. If that is the sole cause and not just a coincidence why would it affect my transmission? I only have issues with the transmission when I have issues with it starting.
 

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Great job! Lets hope that was the sole cause for both issues.

I'm not 100% sure why it would effect your transmission, other then i'm sure the transmission is pull some volts during it's operation. Maybe the computer was a little flaky because of resistance from the corrosion? Hopefully someone with some more experience will chime in.

You might want to check your transmission fluid color and level just to cover all your bases.

Welcome to the forums, and keep us update if the gremlins show up again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great job! Lets hope that was the sole cause for both issues.

I'm not 100% sure why it would effect your transmission, other then i'm sure the transmission is pull some volts during it's operation. Maybe the computer was a little flaky because of resistance from the corrosion? Hopefully someone with some more experience will chime in.

You might want to check your transmission fluid color and level just to cover all your bases.

Welcome to the forums, and keep us update if the gremlins show up again.
Thank you so much for your help! I just drove it and the transmission acted just fine so I really hope it was just that. I try to figure things out first to see if I can fix before paying someone else because having extra money is nice so thank you for helping instead of being ugly.
 

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On being ugly..........the cars can seriously have something wrong with them and not post a code at ALL. Why you often have to read live data while car is running to find out what is abnormal but has not yet posted a code. The cars can have things go wrong left and right and not show a single thing when they are running right and you read codes then. Yet 20 things could be wrong with them. They damp the code logging so that nothing logs any longer to save millions in excess wasted warranty chasing when people got a code for literally bad gas (ethanol laced fuel does it daily) going through the cars and now all that early warning system is gone. Leaving the owner to figure things out. The OP warning was when the car began to give trouble a while back, say incomplete ignition to not start up easily will be building up excess crud in the cat and next you get a cat light at 10X the $$$$$ damage amount if one would have fixed car when it first began to show trouble. Reading codes is a reactive thing, you go proactive, or get ahead of the curve by going after problems when they are new, letting them build up almost always makes things worse. Take your trans here, if a CVT type you REALLY are asking for major damage with it mis-shifting, they tear up way too fast as it is. If the car starts up say with a coil misfiring to run bad then of course the trans will mis-shift, all the shifting software is based on an engine running correctly and not getting that the trans acts up. Normal. A dirty injector to clog or leak could cause the same troubles, yet it may not show on codes but would show up under live data, you can see how the computer is actively changing things then to detail what may be wrong.

If you had no codes then say so, how is keeping it a secret helping you? It isn't, and now you know why I posted what I did. The basic need of a tuneup has not gone away either but millions never even go there, they want instead the one exact part that fixes the issue when commonly it is more than one thing because they think you never do anything to the car until you get codes. Like OP here, the car began acting up long ago but we only get around to working on it much later. That costs hundreds of thousands of people way more than it needs to.

I may be ugly, but I pay pennies to $50 bills that other people give up. I have never paid for a single car repair ever for 45+ years on a long string of cars, 4 at a time. I fix all myself.

Hoping it was as simple as the battery cable for you, but including the trans says likely not. Letting cable go that long in that condition is one of the best ways to blow out a $250 alternator as well. Probably not cable too because car cranks well, that says battery is getting power through the cable. The trans would only mess up with low voltage from battery, car cranking good says no to that. Maybe yes, maybe no. Why I suggest looking at ignition system as a possibility, if car cranks up for a second not running right that WILL mess trans up.
 
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