Thanks Now I know I need to get two new nuts before I remove them. I hope the parts guy at dealer can tell me the torque rating.According to the service manual: Do not reuse the wheel hub lock nut. Do not reuse the hub cap (cap that covers the lock nut).
It says, " check that the wheel hub lock nut is tightened to the specified torque" but no torque spec is shown on the manual....duhh!
It is a pretty good sized nut and axle stub. Me personally? I'd probably go ~120ft-lbs and call it good. I guess see how it feels when removing it.
I don't mind drum brakes for an application like this, but this unitized setup blows. I just looked parts up on Napa. Rear drums are ~$70/ea as are rear wheel bearings. Shoes are ~$40 per side. Shoe hardware kit ~$12. Lug studs are ~$3/ea. You're looking at over $400 in parts total. This doesn't include wheel cylinders, etc. A shop would probably charge $700-800 for a full blown rear brake job because you're not getting new drums without new wheel bearings, studs, etc.
Best you can hope for is the drums stay salvageable for a very long time and the most you need is new bearings pressed out / into them.
Sounds good. Only thing is, I'd be very leery of a $20-30 bearing unless you plan to sell/trade the car within 6 months or so. Then again, worst case scenario, if it goes bad in a matter of months like the ultra cheap ones tend to do, it's just the bearing you have to replace.