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Discussion Starter #1
I see there is a nut holding the rear drums on. I just want to inspect the brakes as iam at 30k miles.
Anyone know if this is a ONE TIME type nut were you need to get a new nut after removing old one? Any idea on torque rating when tightening nut back down?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks but
Looking through a plug is NOT what I want. Besides I want to CLEAN the brakes. Drums get dirty after a while.
 

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According to the service manual: Do not reuse the wheel hub lock nut. Do not reuse the hub cap (cap that covers the lock nut).

It says, " check that the wheel hub lock nut is tightened to the specified torque" but no torque spec is shown on the manual....duhh!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
According to the service manual: Do not reuse the wheel hub lock nut. Do not reuse the hub cap (cap that covers the lock nut).

It says, " check that the wheel hub lock nut is tightened to the specified torque" but no torque spec is shown on the manual....duhh!
Thanks Now I know I need to get two new nuts before I remove them. I hope the parts guy at dealer can tell me the torque rating.
 

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If I had to go through all that Id get new bearings, hardware and upgrade the shoes. Depending on the shape of the drums Id likely replace those as well and paint them black.
 

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Looking at drum brakes at only 30K is severely misplaced maintenance if they are working correctly. And if the type with a cartridge bearing you are risking the bearing going bad with every retorque of it. They realign at every reinstall and doing it unnecessarily will kill them early.

I am a maintenance maniac and I don't even think about rear drums until at least 100K..........

Save the effort for things nobody ever does like changing trans fluid and power steering fluid.
 

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I reused the nuts up to 3-4 times on Fords and they said to change them every time too. Silly, if the nut holds torque on the way up you use it, if it begins to give you will know it and replace it then.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I never did take the drums off to inspect. Now its winter and I hear grinding in right rear when brakes are applied. Now iam screwed. its cold outside and have no garage. I have 47567 miles. I did replace the front brakes this past summer, they still had some pad left. My previous car a Honda fit the rear drums shoes were still good when I got rid of car at 80K miles. Nissan JUNK. Never again.
 

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Could be just some rust between the drum and backing plate/dust cover. Does the parking brake work well? I'm sure you've seen them by know, but there's a bunch of youtube videos on maintenance, removal and replacement of the ~2013+ style Versa rear drum brakes. I've not seen anyone toss and replace the axle nut and dust cover.

If you feel you have to, to troubleshoot, I would pull the drums and if they look good and the bearings don't seem to be giving you any issues, by all means re-use them at the low mileage you're at. Like said above, every time you loosen and re-torque that axle nut, it shuffles the deck for that wheel bearing so to speak.

Problem with them is, the wheel bearing is pressed in to the drum and so are the lug studs, so a full rear brake job would most likely include drums, bearings and lug studs along with all your brake wear items that need to be replaced.

I've got ~47K miles on our 2015 Versa 1.6s and live in the rust belt. I don't plan on touching the rears until I have to. I'd be tempted to mail order the parts ahead of time because all OEM parts would be a fortune. I'd try for an OEM or trusted brand wheel bearing if that exists.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I drove the car longer today as i had to be some where today,. by the end of drive the right rear brake no longer made any grinding noise. Drove about 40 miles. I watced TWO youtube videos on the rear brakes. ONE said 90 foot pounds for the nut the other said 177 foot pounds for the nut that holds drum. on. I posted a question in each video the 90 ft pound guy replied saying he has had zero issues at 90 foot pounds. So NOT sure if I should pull the drum off. BUT after it sat for a few house and driven I hear noise BUT not as loud. Sunday its supposed to be 45F and no rain/snow. I could pull the drum off then. Parkling brake functuions normnally and I do use it occasionally. impossible to leave it on as dash light and beeping noise for parking brake is left on even one click. So I sure didnt leave it one ever. Iam the only driver of car.
 

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Per the 2014 factory service manual, it says 177 ft-lbs for the axle nut.
 

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It is a pretty good sized nut and axle stub. Me personally? I'd probably go ~120ft-lbs and call it good. I guess see how it feels when removing it.

I don't mind drum brakes for an application like this, but this unitized setup blows. I just looked parts up on Napa. Rear drums are ~$70/ea as are rear wheel bearings. Shoes are ~$40 per side. Shoe hardware kit ~$12. Lug studs are ~$3/ea. You're looking at over $400 in parts total. This doesn't include wheel cylinders, etc. A shop would probably charge $700-800 for a full blown rear brake job because you're not getting new drums without new wheel bearings, studs, etc.

Best you can hope for is the drums stay salvageable for a very long time and the most you need is new bearings pressed out / into them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes I hope the drum is ok or good enough. Rock Auto has bearing for about 20 to 35 and the RAYBESTOS drum in the 27 buck range. So if I decide to replace drums then I will get them from Rock. I just got the shoes locally at autozone 25 bucks. Iam pulling the drum Sunday as it will be 45F At 47K miles I will not be happy if the brakes are gone. I had a 2001 CRV then 2008 Honda Fit and both had drum brakes in rear that lasted over 80K miles. PLUS they didn't have this STUPID design brakes. I could check them every time i had wheels off car. I replaced fronts this past summer, still has some pad left .

Will see. I will use my torque wrench and slowly adjust it up to see what the nut breaks loose at to get an idea of what it WAS torqued too. I did experiment with lug nuts today using this technique as the lugs were at 83 Ft lbs I always mount my own wheels at 83 ft lb. . They broke loose without clicking torque wrench at about 90 ft pounds at 83 they clicked the torque wrench then 85 then at 90 they broke loose without clicking torque wrench.

Another guy on youtube who has a how too video used 90 Ft Lb and I asked and he said he has had no problem at 90 ft lb. I might put some Blue Thread lock on nut if I go at 90 ft lb. this way it shouldn't come loose. Losing a wheel would be BAD.




It is a pretty good sized nut and axle stub. Me personally? I'd probably go ~120ft-lbs and call it good. I guess see how it feels when removing it.

I don't mind drum brakes for an application like this, but this unitized setup blows. I just looked parts up on Napa. Rear drums are ~$70/ea as are rear wheel bearings. Shoes are ~$40 per side. Shoe hardware kit ~$12. Lug studs are ~$3/ea. You're looking at over $400 in parts total. This doesn't include wheel cylinders, etc. A shop would probably charge $700-800 for a full blown rear brake job because you're not getting new drums without new wheel bearings, studs, etc.

Best you can hope for is the drums stay salvageable for a very long time and the most you need is new bearings pressed out / into them.
 

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Sounds good. Only thing is, I'd be very leery of a $20-30 bearing unless you plan to sell/trade the car within 6 months or so. Then again, worst case scenario, if it goes bad in a matter of months like the ultra cheap ones tend to do, it's just the bearing you have to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The 18.95 bearing at Rock Auto is American made Timken bearings. good bearings. NOT cheap China bearings. I would trust Timken bearings. If I have to replace drum.


Sounds good. Only thing is, I'd be very leery of a $20-30 bearing unless you plan to sell/trade the car within 6 months or so. Then again, worst case scenario, if it goes bad in a matter of months like the ultra cheap ones tend to do, it's just the bearing you have to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Are rear wheel bearings under any warranty. I have 47K miles ? Looks like the bearing is shot. Brakes shoes look ok.
 

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Yeah I'm quite familiar with Timken and would be pleasantly surprised if that's what you're actually getting for $18.95 from the Rock. Could be. Maybe they've got a ton of them in stock to unload, thus the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well here is short video of loose bearing Oh it looks like there was something maybe rust that was causing grinding noise when brakes applied is it gone now. BUT now I know bearing is bad. I diont want my wheel falling off. Will see if dealer will replace under warranty. Wheel Bearing video
 
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