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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I have a Nissan Versa 2012 SV 1.6L

I'm getting a vibration and it sounds like the u-joint near my feet is shaking and its pretty loud and annoying, the steer wheel itself isn't shaking, but sounds like vibration is coming to the steering shaft.
It only happens when accelerating around 60+ miles per hour, if I were to let go of the acceleration the noise does stop, it happens as soon as I accelerate again at those higher limits.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Would like to know, I've been doing some research and its all leading me to the CV axle, but would like some confirmation before actually ordering parts.

Thank you
 

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I would look at the transmission first. Especially if a CVT.
Anything else would still be noticable in some way, even when coasting.
 

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Not so. Check the outer tie rods. Common to shake with pull (power on) but not when letting off.

The tires pull forward with FWD, any looseness then shows when the slack pulls away from being solid on the back with neutral power, the shake occurs between the two solid hits inside the looseness. Jack car up and grab wheels for a slack check at 3 and 9 o'clock, if loose you're there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not so. Check the outer tie rods. Common to shake with pull (power on) but not when letting off.

The tires pull forward with FWD, any looseness then shows when the slack pulls away from being solid on the back with neutral power, the shake occurs between the two solid hits inside the looseness. Jack car up and grab wheels for a slack check at 3 and 9 o'clock, if loose you're there.
I've tried moving it left and right and it seems pretty sturdy. I also tried rocking the tie rod and if I twist it does move a little bit, but still pretty firm on both sides. Any other tests I could do?
 

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amc49- Wouldn't he be experiencing the issue at lower speeds as well if it were the outer tie rods?

I point out the trans as a starting point as it happens at power on and over 60, unknown if MPH or KPH. At that point you are in high range with the converter locked.
I have had 2 auto transmissions do what the OP is describing in the past. Would start at higher speeds and gradually at lower speeds until complete failure. Was a O/D and 3rd gear failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
amc49- Wouldn't he be experiencing the issue at lower speeds as well if it were the outer tie rods?

I point out the trans as a starting point as it happens at power on and over 60, unknown if MPH or KPH. At that point you are in high range with the converter locked.
I have had 2 auto transmissions do what the OP is describing in the past. Would start at higher speeds and gradually at lower speeds until complete failure. Was a O/D and 3rd gear failure.

Yes doesn't seem to be happening at lower speeds, and only when I am pressing the accelerator, if I were to let go it would disappear.
 

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'Wouldn't he be experiencing the issue at lower speeds as well if it were the outer tie rods?'

No. At lower speeds the power is not enough to pull the slack up front. All cars and RWD will let any slack fall to the back when the car begins to move, the parts weight and inertia make that happen. With FWD though the axles begin to pull the slack back forward, it's a FWD thing. You have to have enough power to pull the slack off the normal resting toward the back, that occurs at faster speeds. One other way to check is to make the check and while shaking get down on brake fairly firmly, if the shake goes away with that then looseness in ties or maybe control arms. The shake actually occurs as the slack goes front/rear/front/rear over and over.

If the CV axles one can try the slow roll turn thing in empty parking lot, turn steering to hit limit and slow go in circles listening for the clicking both ways, if so you have CV damage.

You can also have a dead intermediate bearing halfway down the pass side axle, harder to tell that one.

Do a 12 and 6 o'clock check on tires hanging in air for a dead wheel bearing, usually they make noise but not always.
 

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FYI, at power on the trans should have dropped out of locked converter, it only locks with power at light cruise, get into it any at all and you will feel the converter unlock. Watch any tach for about a 200 rpm or so flare up.

ATX fail hard enough to shake the car? Nothing is impossible but every one I ever rebuilt never did that. 3rd and OD both going says direct clutch damage on a 4 speed and the assembly is so small I don't see how it could shake anything. The reverse clutch around it keeps it rotating straight on axis to not shake and it's only maybe 3 1/2-4 inches around anyway.

But then I don't know everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
'Wouldn't he be experiencing the issue at lower speeds as well if it were the outer tie rods?'

No. At lower speeds the power is not enough to pull the slack up front. All cars and RWD will let any slack fall to the back when the car begins to move, the parts weight and inertia make that happen. With FWD though the axles begin to pull the slack back forward, it's a FWD thing. You have to have enough power to pull the slack off the normal resting toward the back, that occurs at faster speeds. One other way to check is to make the check and while shaking get down on brake fairly firmly, if the shake goes away with that then looseness in ties or maybe control arms. The shake actually occurs as the slack goes front/rear/front/rear over and over.

If the CV axles one can try the slow roll turn thing in empty parking lot, turn steering to hit limit and slow go in circles listening for the clicking both ways, if so you have CV damage.

You can also have a dead intermediate bearing halfway down the pass side axle, harder to tell that one.

Do a 12 and 6 o'clock check on tires hanging in air for a dead wheel bearing, usually they make noise but not always.
Ok I will check more thoroughly this weekend when I bring the car up to change the transmission fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update 9/28/19

I just changed 4 1/2 qt. of transmission fluid, change filter, and oil strainer. Oil was super black, so good thing to change.

After changing CVT fluid. the shake still occurs, but I did some more diagnosis and noticed the vibration which is coming from around the interior at the foot at the u-joint, I will occasionally hear it if it hits a bump. Also, during accelerating around 60-70 MPH, it doesn't happen every time, but it does happen often, now when it does happen I noticed if I turn the wheel left or right a little bit while accelerating, the shaking does disappear and once the wheel is straight again it will vibrate.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There's a u joint near the brakes, and there is a u joint near the back of the steering wheel. The vibration noise is definitely coming from the u joint up near the back of the steering wheel. Is it possible someone can shake their steering shaft, and verify that there is no play? Please make sure steering wheel is straight, that's the only time I hear the knocking noise, which makes sense cause when I turn the steering wheel the noise goes away, and I'm also unable to produce the knocking noise when I'm turning the steering wheel.
 

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A correct steering shaft has zero play but anything coming up it is from outside the cockpit, tires, or other issue.
 

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A correct steering shaft has zero play but anything coming up it is from outside the cockpit, tires, or other issue.
alright so it was this piece!

I tried tightening it but there was still play, I didn't want to pay $150. I actually just loosened it and pull it down, inserted a piece of foil to tighten the connect from the shaft to the steering wheel, and now the noise is completely gone.

Thank you!
 

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Yeah, that's an interesting fix, but it still doesn't address what ever is causing the vibration. I think tires were mentioned. I'm assuming you rotated tires to see if the problem changes or goes away?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The vibration seems to be normal car vibration. After doing a bunch of test drives the "noise" let's not call it vibration now, the noise coming within the car was able to be reproduced when driving over speed bumps, and whenever the wheel is straight during acceleration. And the noise does come back when driving on bumpy roads. The car itself is not actually vibrating rough during high speeds, the temporary fix, does remove the noise from the equation and when driving, I do not feel any type vibration at the steering wheel or from the car itself. The foil helped tighten the connection. The noise can be manually reproduced only when the steering wheel is straight, even a slight tilt on the steering wheel removes the noise; the noise came from the top connection from the steering shaft to the steering wheel. It's a very small movement about thickness of 2 pieces of paper. which I folded a piece of foil once and inserted into the shaft and connected it back. I know it sounds awful to fix it with a foil, but it is a temporary fix to remove that noise for now. I will be ordering a new steering shaft, and getting that replaced.

I have already done all the diagnostics on the tie rods, sway bar links, CV axle. struts, transmission, and tires.
 

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Shim it up with something much more durable than foil, which should wear again to make noise quick. Say (steel) feeler gauge material in correct thickness. Likely no need to buy a steering shaft at $$$$$$$$$$, I've rigged stuff like that to be as tight as new and last for 20 more years easily, and for pennies.
 
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