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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all.
i have a 2011 versa 1.8 hachback.
Out of the blue today, The car stumbles or "misses"? when accelerating while driving, more pronounced while going up hill.
it's almost like the whole engine cuts out of a split-second.

There currently are no check engine lights or codes.
Cannot recreate the problem revving the engine in park. I fear the car is going to stall.
purrs like a kitten when idling
starts just fine

I'm thinking dying fuel pump $$$
or spark plugs (which the car is due for)

So the plan is now, to replace spark plugs and see if the problem continues.
If it does, going to replace the fuel pump?

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

Quick question, Intake and throttle body gaskets needed? or can the just be reused if i'm careful?
 

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You don't mention trans type. If it's a CVT could be going into 'limp' mode. Don't just start replacing things until you figure out what you are looking for.

If it idles fine and revs fine in neutral you probably don't need to replace the plugs or the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thank for the reply!
It's an automatic, non-cvt

I've replace the spark plugs an I'm slowly putting things back together.
The gap on the removed spark plugs were around .050 to .055 . My repair Manual (and new ones) say .043 . So they did need to be replaced.

Right now i'm looking at throttle body. it's just sitting there all dirty begging to be cleaned. But i keep reading about people getting into trouble trying to clean it. I could not find any versa specific tips on throttle body cleaning on these forums. I know not to unplug it, but can moving the butterfly valve to clean around it cause problems also?
It's just sitting there staring me in the face as I do my work.
(Like the 1 ring calling to Frodo)

Please keep the tips and suggestions coming!
 

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DON'T re-use the gaskets, they do NOT rebound and often if silicone they get much softer to leak when heated with use.

If you move the butterfly at all the odds of getting back in the correct spot are a million to one against you, the throttle actually stops lightly cracked open and you have no way to determine how many thousandths of an inch it is open.

If you run any solvent down into electronics while doing things give it up. Ditto too much running down the throttle shaft to get into the shaft bearings, the seals then flaw and vacuum leak.

Fun, huh?
 

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If they use ethanol in your local fuel it just could be water getting into the injectors and momentary until it runs through. If they do, don't buy a gas dryer product, the ethanol is already doing that. If you went to a different station lately it could be that station has water in fuel. Not much, but even a small drop will freak the engine out for a second.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Update... not good...

Got the car back together, I did not clean the Throttle body, I want to only break one thing at a time.
The car started without trouble. a few seconds later her idle was bouncing between 900 and 1000 rpms. I then back it out of the garage. Once out side she was starting to stumble again, but this time at idle.
I attempted to rev the car a bit, and it stubbled again almost like I was missing a cylinder and it stalled. Did this about 2 more time, now the car won't start. It just cranks.

Double check my work, did not see any unconnected hoses or unplugged connections.
I did leave the battery unplugged over night, and I did unplug the MAF while the batter was out of the car.

So next steps....
Going to give the car an hour to hopefully bleed of any built up fuel pressure, and I'm going to try and start it again.
I DID hear the fuel pump while starting the car the first time, but after the car quit, I do not hear it anymore. I'm not sure if the pump just isn't on because the pressure is already built up.
Another thing I noticed is that the brake peddle is hard to press now. Kinda like when you press the brake peddle to build up pressure to bleed the brakes.

Any thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update.... I got this error
ID-10-T (i'm an idiot)

Car is now running and a very brief test drive had no stumbles or pauses in the engine.
Tonight i'm going to give it a test on the highway and see how it does. That will test the rpm, speed, and hot engine to see if the problem returns.

I did end up reusing all the gaskets. I torqued everything correctly and time will tell if the used gaskets hold up.
I also ended up doing the throttle body re-learn procedure because unhooking the battery is the same as unplugging the sensor. *duh!*

Now why did my car die and fail to start after I did all the work the first time?
Feel free to post you guess below! i'll post the "i'm an idiot" solution tomorrow!
 

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If you have a leak from using the gaskets over the engine will relearn to tune it out if it is small enough, the TB simply closes the butterfly down more to make up for the leak. But that takes time. Once the TB cannot close enough though you get what you had on your restart, idle speeds moving all over and commonly higher. The brake pedal getting hard was either vacuum leak or ignition, the pedal hardens up because there is no vacuum in the motor (due to leak or not running right) to help you.

IF you are now leaking it may get worse, or longer term the TB clogs up faster as the normal aircrack is now much smaller than normal, it clogs easier.

Told you not to use those gaskets over, torque CANNOT help a gasket that HAS LOST CRUSH, THEY DO NOT SEAL. They may seem to but later the issues begin and then you are lost as you refuse to go back there (they were good for a while, why would they go bad??) in your logic stream. Modern gaskets do NOT seal by torque per se anyway, they commonly butt the joint solid, the crush is built in and in no way can you help that joint seal better even by overtightening the part tighter than normal. If the silicone 'went soft' the joint typically can suck the silicone clean out of place. You should buy a new gasket and then compare the two together by squeezing them or putting a fingernail hard into it, the difference can be unbelievable. The new gasket will be like 10X as dense in nature. What silicone exposed to fuel vapor long term does. Providing it IS silicone of course.

Yours and do as you will.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, the jerking and stumbling showed up again.

Quick question, are there transmission codes for Nissan that will not necessary turn on a check engine light?
Would a slowly-failing fuel pump cause a check engine light?
Best way to check a fuel pump? wait for it to act up and pressure test?

It occurs when the car is under load, accelerating around 2000 rpms, usually up a slight hill. I'm guessing i'm in 1,2 or 3rd when it happens. It seems to happen during snowstorms and when the car has been fully warmed up. I believe can avoid the stumble(s) if I get a little aggressive with my acceleration.

I cannot recreate at will, some times it acts up, sometimes not. It drove fine for the last 10 days.
I tried spraying some water under the hood to see it the snow/moisture what causing something to short out, but still no luck.

I'm thinking about bringing it to the dealer, but I don't want to get the old "sorry we couldn't recreate it, now give us our money" statement.

feeling down :(
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the reply Alan,

That's an idea, but is currently lower on the list. My fuel trims look good, and it's intermittent when it happens, and it doesn't happen everyday.

Did some more research tonight, and here are my 3 leading theories.
1) Alternator - I'm going to hook up my scan too to see if I can catch it in "the act". if my voltage doesn't drop, then that would rule out my alternator.

2) Fuel Pump - That it's dying and some days are better than others. It can't provide enough fuel when it acts up, and the car cuts-out for a split second.

3) Transmission - The transmission could be slipping, as I have never experienced a slipping automatic transmission I have no experience to go by. But as of now, the color of the fluid looks good, so i'm not sure.

The big pain in the butt is that 20% of my commute is over bridges and interchanges with no real places to pull a car over. It worries me.

Please keep the Advice coming!
 

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Thanks for the reply Alan,

That's an idea, but is currently lower on the list. My fuel trims look good, and it's intermittent when it happens, and it doesn't happen everyday.

Did some more research tonight, and here are my 3 leading theories.
1) Alternator - I'm going to hook up my scan too to see if I can catch it in "the act". if my voltage doesn't drop, then that would rule out my alternator.

2) Fuel Pump - That it's dying and some days are better than others. It can't provide enough fuel when it acts up, and the car cuts-out for a split second.

3) Transmission - The transmission could be slipping, as I have never experienced a slipping automatic transmission I have no experience to go by. But as of now, the color of the fluid looks good, so i'm not sure.

The big pain in the butt is that 20% of my commute is over bridges and interchanges with no real places to pull a car over. It worries me.

Please keep the Advice coming!

3) Transmission could be slipping but does your issue happen when shifting?
because if it happens at 70 mph at the highest gear... I don't think it's the case....

As for today I'd go with the fuel pump, alternator might also have a say in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I haven't experienced the issue on the highway yet. And it never gives me any trouble the very first moments forward from a dead-stop.

I have tomorrow off of work, so i'm going to drive my car like I stole it and see if I can get it to act up.
Then i'm going to try and pull some limited data streams and see if they can point me in the right direction.
Here are the data streams i'm going to try and grab if I can recreate the issue consistantly
Engine temp
Short term trim
MAF data
Voltage


If I still have no luck after that, I may pull the fuel pump this weekend and inspect it for debris or foreign objects in the gas tank.
... and after that, I may throw a cheap fuel pump at it, or the pressure regulator.

Questions,
A failing coil pack should eventually throw a check engine light correct?
Is there any other budget "tests" people can suggest, other then trying to splice in a pressure gage?
 

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Virtually ALL codes can happen without a light if the incidence of the happening is short enough to allow for it. The software is written to ignore them up to various times and seriousness as outlined in the software. If not, every car on the planet would have warranty issues instantly as a car cannot go even one day without some sort of an erratic blip in operation simply due to the chaosian design of the systems. No sensor on earth has absolutely 100% perfect out put at all times. All sensors added together and you can have 3-4 errors every day, just not recorded as such, they are 'normal'.

Why more happenings are recorded in history and as pending codes that do not light the light, the ECM has noticed them but takes a time to decide if they are real or not based on the severity of them and the number of times, again, all provided for in the software.
 

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' You can at least get an idea of a vacuum leak with the old wd40 test.'

Not if the leak is 100% hidden. Say IAC passage internal leak under the TB from reusing a base gasket, the main intake can crossleak into any IAC bypass molded into the TB. Depends on the TB design of course. I've found that in Fords before.
 

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If you have a tach then a slipping trans or clutch becomes obvious instantly, the rpm goes up with the degree of slip.
 

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Hi I am new to the Forum, but we have had a 2014 Nissan Versa Note for about 2 years. We already had the CVT transmission replaced at about 74k miles. Now at about 87,000 miles the transmission seems to work fine except when I am going up a slight incline at highway speeds. What happens is we are travelling about about 75 to 80 MPH as most of the traffic on this stretch of highway does. The RPM's will suddenly drop about 500-1000 RPM's then come back up to the original reading. There is a slight surge when it happens too. Then it feels like the vehicle wants to start pulling like it is supposed to. I am not sure if it is the transmission or if I should be looking into something else. I have the problem if the A/C is on or off. So I know it's not the A/C causing the issue. If anyone can help me out or has experienced this issue with the CVT please feel free to let me know. I am perplexed and don't want to have to replace the transmission again if that is what it is. Thanks!
 

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Would not be surprised at all if the new trans was messing up, that design is so screwed. You DO know the CVTs Nissan puts back in the cars are simply old ones rebuilt right?
 

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Yeah I know. It doesn't happen all the time and it's out of warranty I'm not sure if I'm willing to put more money into the car. Luckily my last one was covered by the car max warranty. But this one would be an out of pocket cost.

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