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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be flushing out my radiator this weekend, I purchased a thermostat from Autozone, the temp is 180 degrees and they also had one for 205 degrees, I have the CVT and chose the 180, is this the correct temp for my Versa, it is a 2008, I also have 231,000 miles on my car and so far so good. Can someone please advise.

Thanks
Darryl
 

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Not sure the stock temp but congrats on having 231k miles. That is awesome! Do you have a thread about your car? I'd love to see what you have done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No i do not have a thread as of yet, everything is original except for the tranny, it went out at 121,000 miles but nissan took good care of me, because of the extended warranty they put on it, I change oil every month or 2500 miles, keep an eye on all fluids, accelarate slowly and brake slowly.
 

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when you say original I assume you mean non wear items? Surely you can't mean things like brakes, tires etc.

Transmission went out on you? Glad nissan took care of you. Must be a CVT model. Hope you have many more miles left on that beast. I will see if I can find the Tstat info for you.
 

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according to the FSM

Valve opening temperature 80.5 - 83.5°C (177 - 182°F)

Maximum valve lift 8 mm/ 95°C (0.315 in/ 203°F)

Valve closing temperature 77°C (171°F)

I am thinking possibly all the tstats for sale are the same but one lists the cracking temp and one lists the fully open temp. I think you are safe with the tstat you have purchased. If you are really nervous about it I would spend the extra couple of dollars and buy an OEM one at the dealer and provide them your VIN.
 

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Upon further inspection the 1.8 Versa uses two thermostats. Well actually one is called a water control valve. They have two different temps and that is why you are seeing items with both 180 and 205. More info can be found in the fsm here http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Versa/2008_Versa/co.pdf.

I tried to upload a pic but it's not being cooperative.

I have further inspected the FSM for the early style HR16DE which I have. There is no water control valve for my engine. Just the simple tstat setup.
 

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Yeah, the heater core thermostat opens at a much lower temp than the conventional thermostat, it's for emissions, and in theory it should also shorten the time it takes to get heat in cabin. Though IMO these motors still warm up extremely slow... Unless the motor has cooling system issues (scale buildup, clogged passages, leaky head gasket/inefficient water pump), using a hotter thermostat will never affect total latent cooling. Personally i'd go OEM, dealer prices are surprisingly good for most stuff, you will never go wrong with OEM on any imports. Plus you can use the new longer life blue coolant. I think it's HOAT though, so make sure you do a thorough flush with distilled water, HOAT and OAT mixing forms a nasty combination.
 

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Welcome Darryl!

Is there a water control valve on the newer Versa 1.6?
...and is that perhaps why some are complaining of poor warming in their new style Versas in colder climes?
Edit ultimately I ask with respect to the forthcoming Micra 1.6
 

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There probably is, you could take it out permanently with no ill effects though, apart from the fact that you may burn a little more fuel, and maybe throw a code because you'll be staying in open loop warmup for longer than usual.
 

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yeap, 180 is the one to get. if you want the car to run hotter, get a higher limit one. Not much reason to do that unless you're in a cold environment.

aftermarket is perfectly fine for a tstat. They're all the same, nothing proprietary there.

As far as coolant goes, my advice is to always run what's most common. I use Peak's All Makes in every one of my vehicles, always have. It works great, and you never have to worry if you blow your radiator, since you can dump anything in there in a pinch, without worry. I doubt many gas stations are going to carry the fancy blue stuff.

fancy coolant is a money grab by the dealer/manufacturer. I've never hadd any ill effects running "all makes" aftermarket coolant. and that includes audis, which "require" a proprietary "G12" coolant... hogwash,
 

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What thermostat for 2011 Versa 1.8?

Hi I’m new to the forum so I’m not sure if I’m doing everything right but here goes. I’m doing a coolant change on my newly acquired 2011 Hatchback and figured I’d throw a new thermostat in while I’m at it. The guys at Oreilly’s gave me a thermostat that is a little bit smaller and has a different temp than the one that was in there and I just pulled out. The one that was in there is not OEM either and says 180 degrees on it. The new one says 203 degrees. I went in the Autozone website to see what would come up as the thermostat that fits my car and they both came up.
Anybody know which is correct?
 

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Both are correct. You are changing both of them, right? :grin You got an upper and a lower.

Upper, 205 Degrees Reverse Poppet 2-7/32" x 3/4" x 27/32"



Lower 180 Degrees Reverse Poppet 2-1/8" x 29/32" x 1-1/16"

 

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Beats me. I dont own the same exact car as you. Most I could do was look for a typical water hose fitting that looks like it has room for a t stat under it. I got the service manual for my car, but havent had the time to even flip through it. Id like to know how the cooling system works and how having a second one at 205 degrees is of any benefit at such a high temp. Its not like we got 2 radiators.

 

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I found a video on replacing the upper one on an Altima. Looks like more of a pain in the butthole than I feel like enduring right now. Too much stuff in the way. I like Versas but some of the stuff in the engine is hard too reach. Even the headlights are a pain to change.
 

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My engine seems to stay under 190 or so degrees F, so I doubt the upper one gets a change to work unless the engine internally operates at a different temp vs the reported temp by the sensor.

Ever own a lexus? They put the starter under the intake manifold between the bank of cylinders in the v8 model in the lifter valley. :surprise
 

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temp by the sensor.

Ever own a lexus? They put the starter under the intake manifold between the bank of cylinders in the v8 model in the lifter valley. :surprise
GM did the same thing with the 4.6 Northstar too.

Bonus points.. To change the t-stat and water pump on those engines, you practically have to take the entire left side if the engine bay apart.
 

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My specialty or job no one else wanted was vans. I use to crawl all over those. I loved the ones without ac as I would remove the front grill, radiator, etc to get to the front part of the engine. Then remove the cowl inside and you can about access everything at that point.

Id like to know how it works to keep the engine cool. Although my V has kept its cool it hasnt been in hot weather like my honda had. A few years ago in the mid atlantic area we had quite a few days in 100+ F degrees. One day it was 108 out in the shade with 100% humidity. My AC was keeping the interior about 75-80 degrees inside the car. I had my scangauge hooked up and looked down at it to see the water temp was 230 F. Surprisingly no idiot lights were on. I turned off the AC and the temp actually got warmer still. I pulled over rolled down the windows, turned on the heat and let it idle til it was down to 190 then drove home sweating it.
 
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