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Hi, just bought a Versa with 42,000 miles on the odometer and wondered if there's a recommended time to replace the timing belt.
 

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Versa's have timing chains, my friend.

I am obligated to point out the handy search feature of the forum which can be used to find answers to many common questions like this which helps cut down on duplicate threads :thumbsup:
 

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I bought my 2016 Versa Note on short notice (I got up that morning and did not know I would be driving home a Nissan in the evening), so I had to discover a lot of things about the car afterwards. I was pleasantly surprised to find the engine did not have a rubber timing belt, which normally needs to be replaced before 100,000 miles. I am guessing Nissan did this on purpose? Good move.
 

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Behind the times.............ever since most timing belts went to Kevlar compounds belt replacement periods went from 60K miles to around 120K unless the engine is a high perf model..............many can go higher than that, people all the time get 200K out of some of them but that's pushing it.
 

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I would have no issue with a timing belt engine as long as its a non-interference motor. Unfortunately most modern engines are interference type. My old chevy (suzuki) sprint is non-interference so when that belt breaks put on a new one and back in business, but lots of people have wrecked their valves on other motors because people don't get the belt changed in time and then when it goes you have a huge shop bill to R/R.

I checked BEFORE I bought my versa, and believe you me if the versa used a timing belt and an interference design engine I would not have bought one based on that one strike alone.
 

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I dont know about that. My honda odyssey isnt high performance and they recommend changing it early if you use the vehicle in a cold climate. To make matters worse the water pump is located behind the timing belt. I believe the timing belt kit actually includes a water pump to replace. I bought my odyssey used and asked they do that before I purchased it.

Behind the times.............ever since most timing belts went to Kevlar compounds belt replacement periods went from 60K miles to around 120K unless the engine is a high perf model
 

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And why they do it. It is borderline stupid to change a timing belt that has the water pump in its' belt run yet not change the pump at the same time................yet so many do just like the ones who promise over and over to change belts on the interference ones then don't. Kablooey and new car time.

I have met the enemy and he is me.

Look at all belt maker (not car) recommendations, averaged out most say 120K miles now unless the engine is a hi-perf one. Been that way since around '98-'00, when the better belts began to show up on cars off the showroom floor.

I had Ford 2.3 SOHCs and have 2.0 zetecs, both are non-interference and have 120K change intervals, both engines were 60K before '98. Any sooner than that and you have a manufacturer who is getting extra shop throughput based on your fears unless the car is a hotrod. The Ford zetec SVT model is one of those, it still changes at 60K because the engine bends every valve in it if it slips time because of the variable valve timing. Most will go the 120K but if raced like so many do you are asking for it. Variable valve timing alone often takes a non-interference engine and changes it to interference.

I too check on basic motor designs and problems with the specific motor/trans before I ever entertain purchasing a certain car. You wouldn't catch me dead with one of the newest Ford DCT Focus cars, they are utter pieces of garbage.
 

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Being a former mechanic I rather have chain than belt. Ive seen many belts with teeth missing, but never a chain failure. True as a chain stretches it eats up the sprockets and rounds off the teeth, but it also happens with the cog belt gears too.
 

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I like chain too but now with all the ways they do it the guides and tensioners commonly end up being issues at higher mileages before the chain itself ever is. If the dust covers are kept over rubber belt gears they hardly ever wear but break a cover to let dirt in and the sprocket wear kicks up 500%. Chain wear is often very hard particles too and will wear engines like you would not believe, belts can't do that..........the usual tradeoff there.
 
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