[2016 Versa]

So the idea of draining the fluid JUST FROM THE 19mm plug at the end of a trans fluid service...
Can someone explain that to me?
How can I drain all the fluid from that plug...and still have the right amount of fluid?

I'm not sure I understand your question but hope this helps.

The only way to replace all the fluid would be to have a transmission flush done. It won't all drain by removing the plug and stand pipe. When you replace the plug with the stand pipe and refill the transmission the correct level for the fluid is the top of the stand pipe at whatever temperature Nissan recommends.

You should have approximately the correct amount of fluid in the transmission with the procedure you used it's just that the new fluid mixes with the old fluid that was still trapped in the torque converter. If you wanted a higher percentage of new fluid you'd have to do multiple fluid drain/fills after driving a while and mixing the old and new fluid.

I plan to do a single drain/fill/filter replacement again at 60K just as I did at 30K on my Versa then between 90 and 100K I'll probably do 3 drain/fills and change the filters on the last of the series. This should replenish a large amount of the fluid to close to like new condition.

 

[malenurse13]

That sounds good. How do y'all feel about the Filter change? Seems like some say not to bother with the filters. But others say never to change the fluid at all! I don't think Nissan ever recommends the trans filters to be changed.
Do you follow the same procedure for filling after removing the pan? Fill it, run it, warm it up, drain just the first plug?

 

[2016 Versa]

That sounds good. How do y'all feel about the Filter change? Seems like some say not to bother with the filters. But others say never to change the fluid at all! I don't think Nissan ever recommends the trans filters to be changed.
Do you follow the same procedure for filling after removing the pan? Fill it, run it, warm it up, drain just the first plug?

I don't know that changing the filters help but it makes me sleep better at night knowing I've gone the extra mile with these problematic transmission. As I said before it was cheap insurance at less than $15 for both filters combined. I don't know what Nissan's stance is on fluid changes now but I think they used to say you never needed to change the fluid and we all see how that worked out for them. The majority of my driving is very easy driving and I could probably get by with extending my drain/fill/filter intervals but at around $60 every 30K miles the extra cost is only $ .002 cent per mile or your cost of ownership goes up $200 every 100K miles. Yes, the filling procedure would be the same if you removed the pan. For me removing the pan played two rolls, I was able to change the filter and also see how many metal flakes were stuck to the pan magnets and clean them.. In my case there was only a slight coating of metal fuzz (maybe 1/32nd inch in thickness) stuck to the magnets and is what I'd consider normal transmission wear for 30K miles but no one knows how much metal got by the magnets and was trapped in the filters. When I changed the fluid/filters I was having absolutely no problems with the transmission which is what I want, I don't want to wait until there's a problem then try to fix it by changing the fluid/filters which might or might not do any good.

 

[malenurse13]

Well, my transmission was "lunging" when shifting gears. It wasn't lagging or "slipping." But it definitely needed new fluid. The transmission engages and shifts smoother now after the transmission fluid service. And I do think the pan should be removed at least once to get rid of any sediment/debris. I've already done the 60k fluid service with the pan on. So when I hit 90k miles... I think I'll go ahead and remove the pan and change filters too. Thank you all for all the feedback and advice. This is my absolute most favorite thing about signing up for a forum with a new vehicle. I sleep better at night as well... after reading what experienced owners have done with their vehicles just like mine.
Thanks again y'all!

 

[malenurse13]

So this may not be a fluid question, but might be related..relates...
I can hear a chirping noise sometimes while driving. Like metal-on-metal. No noise when hard on the throttle. Just under light acceleration, low ram.
Is this the dreaded CVT noise I've read so much about?
Seems like the noise has gotten worse since my DIY trans fluid service.
Could I have too much fluid? Not enough?
Could the noise be the belt? Or something else?

 

[lee.kirkpatrick51]

So I just recently purchased a used 2014 Nissan Versa SV to save on gas. 106,000 miles on the engine. I have no knowledge of when or if the transmission fluid has been changed. I was considering having it changed, but a local mechanic shop advised against it. Any opinions?

 

[tutti57]

You drain it into a container, then put that amount back in it. Do that twice. It's the best you can do without removing the transmission.

 

[malenurse13]

I put cheap castrol synthetic CVT fluid in at 60k miles. I've got a chirping sound (under 2k rpm) that seems to be getting worse.
I'm assuming the viscosity of this castrol fluid isn't what the transmission was designed for??
I want to put Nissan CVT fluid back in. But I don't think I want to wait another 30k miles...
So what is the best way to remove as much of this castrol fluid as possible?

 

[Keith Wagner]

I put cheap castrol synthetic CVT fluid in at 60k miles. I've got a chirping sound (under 2k rpm) that seems to be getting worse.
I'm assuming the viscosity of this castrol fluid isn't what the transmission was designed for??
I want to put Nissan CVT fluid back in. But I don't think I want to wait another 30k miles...
So what is the best way to remove as much of this castrol fluid as possible?

Best to take it to Nissan at this point. Have them change the fluid and do an inspection.

 

[Ecate]

I agree

 

[autotechnologiesweb]

This is my first CVT vehicle. From what I read online, it seems like this transmission needs extra special care to get as many miles as possible out of it.
It's almost time for the 60k mile service. What transmission fluid do y'all think is best?
Can I get that Valvoline Full Synthetic CVT Fluid?
Do I have to buy the expensive CVT type N3?
I want to hear from some other Versa owners so I buy the best fluid to get the most miles out of my CVT...

I know you wrote this a few months back but I would advise anyone with a CVT transmission to add the JilCat Proline CVT Transmission Supplement as soon as you can. Nissans are notorious for having CVT issues and those with the sealed transmissions leave you stuck waiting for those issues to happen before changing/adding fluid. By then damage is done. You can get that CVT Supplement and add it right to the transmission fluid. You do not need to remove any first. There is plenty of room to add it. It will save you thousands in repairs. I have read so many referrals from people regarding their mechanics telling them they need a new engine or transmission and they added the engine conditioner or the CVT supplement (depending on the issue) and it fixed it... I know it works if it's not completely shot.

 

[autotechnologiesweb]

Best to take it to Nissan at this point. Have them change the fluid and do an inspection.

Seriously, I came here to learn where the fluid port is on a 2022 nissan versa but I see all of these people having issues with their CVT so I have to share... Get some CVT supplement fluid to add to the transmission fluid in the CVT. It's literally a game changer for the CVT's and a life extender for the tranny's notorious for Vibrations/shudders/judders/missing out in the shift... Saves thousands in unnecessary repairs.

 

[MVH]

This is my first CVT vehicle. From what I read online, it seems like this transmission needs extra special care to get as many miles as possible out of it.
It's almost time for the 60k mile service. What transmission fluid do y'all think is best?
Can I get that Valvoline Full Synthetic CVT Fluid?
Do I have to buy the expensive CVT type N3?
I want to hear from some other Versa owners so I buy the best fluid to get the most miles out of my CVT...

Nissan CVT Transmission fluid change report:
Service Tips

Contains many important details. Only a few are reproduced with this post.

· Do not use Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) or Manual Transmission Fluid in a Nissan CVT as it may damage the CVT. Damage caused by the use of fluids other than as recommended is not covered under Nissan’s New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

· During adjustment of the CVT fluid level, check with C-III plus to ensure the proper oil temperature is maintained.
– All model years prior to 2013: Fluid level should be checked with the fluid warmed up to 122°F to 176°F (50°C to 80°C).
– All Other Model Years: Fluid level should be checked with the fluid warmed up to 95°F to 113°F (35°C to 45°C).

 

[Cutedancingpanda]

When I changed the fluid/filters in my '16 Versa I used Nissan NS-3 fluid only because my transmission is still under the extended warranty provided by the class action law suit. There are two filters on the transmission and I changed them both. One is the normal in pan filter. The other is an external cartridge filter on the side of the transmission to provide filtering for the valve body. Here are the Raybestos Powertrain part numbers for JATCO CVT-7 filters. The external filter is 515783 available at Rock Auto and the internal filter is 515784 also available at Rock Auto. When I bought my filters less than a year ago both were available for less than $7. each which is pretty cheap insurance. To find the filters on Rock Auto you'll have to do a part number search put in Raybestos Powertrain and the part number. They are not listed under the Versa transmission parts.

Does your Raybestos 515784 filter have no part number on part or package, greasy in bag and thicker O ring compared to original too?

 

[Cutedancingpanda]

When I changed my fluid I was able to remove the cap by putting a screwdriver between the cap and fill tube and hitting it with the palm of my hand. This was done from underneath the car. Since there's an o-ring on the cap to seal it I turned it so it wouldn't lock back on when I replaced it so I wouldn't have to fight with it next time. Removing the pan still won't get all the fluid. Probably nearly half the fluid is still in the torque converter. I removed the pan to change the filter and removed the canister on the side with the filter for the valve body, I still only got 3 3/4 quarts which is just over half the transmissions capacity, Don't quote me on this but if I recall correctly the transmission fluid capacity is something like 7 1/8 or 7 1/4 quarts. I changed both transmission filters when I changed the fluid since these transmissions give so many problems and both filters could be bought from Rock Auto for under $15. When I went to the Nissan dealer to get a new o-ring for the canister they had to order it saying they didn't stock them because when they did a fluid change they didn't change the filters. I feel I went above and beyond what the dealer would have done and it only cost me a little over $60. instead of probably $200-300 they would have charged.

When I changed the fluid/filters in my '16 Versa I used Nissan NS-3 fluid only because my transmission is still under the extended warranty provided by the class action law suit. There are two filters on the transmission and I changed them both. One is the normal in pan filter. The other is an external cartridge filter on the side of the transmission to provide filtering for the valve body. Here are the Raybestos Powertrain part numbers for JATCO CVT-7 filters. The external filter is 515783 available at Rock Auto and the internal filter is 515784 also available at Rock Auto. When I bought my filters less than a year ago both were available for less than $7. each which is pretty cheap insurance. To find the filters on Rock Auto you'll have to do a part number search put in Raybestos Powertrain and the part number. They are not listed under the Versa transmission parts.

Does your Raybestos 515784 filter have no part number on part or package, greasy in bag and thicker O ring compared to original too? Mine is 2013 but used the same parts

 

[Cutedancingpanda]

I wouldn't worry about using Castrol, Valvoline, Lucus, etc. CVT fluid. That's what my intentions are when the extended warranty (class action law suit) is out on my '16. I think the reason they did away with the dipsticks has more to do with trying to prevent people from doing there own maintenance meaning more traffic to the dealership service department. I'm not saying that the wrong fluid doesn't get used sometimes but there have been multiple types of automatic transmission fluids around ever since before I started driving in 1975 and I've never known anyone that ruined a transmission using the wrong fluid. As far as transmissions being designed for one type fluid Nissan must not have it right since many of their transmissions go out using only Nissan branded fluid. I've used various brands of transmission fluid other than that sold by the dealership over the years and never had a transmission failure. I used to run gear oil in a Ford 4 speed manual transmission that was designed for automatic transmission fluid. When I retired the car it still had the original transmission and was shifting fine at 518K miles. The only negative effect I saw was stiffer shifting in the winter.

It's the same way with motor oil. Lots of people say you shouldn't use any weight other than what's listed in the owners manual. I've been using 10w40 in all my cars since I started driving and have never had an engine failure. Nissan recommends 5w30 but the owners manual for my '16 has a temperature/weight graph and as I remember approves of oil weights as high as 20w50. I think these lighter weight oil recommendations are more related to CAFE standards than any other reason.

I suspect I've driven well over 1M miles in the past 46 years and have never had a major transmission or engine breakdown.

I found the capacity of the CVT-7 transmissions somewhere. Maybe the service manual? I'm nearly certain it was over 7 qts. so yes around half the transmissions capacity is still in the torque converter when the transmission is drained. Years ago I had a Chrysler and it had a drain plug in the torque converter so all the fluid could be changed/serviced. I never changed the fluid in it without draining the torque converter so don't know how much it took with just a pan drop but it took 14 quarts when I dropped the transmission pan and drained the torque converter.

The transmission capacity is 7.5qt according to service department at my local Nissan dealer and torque converter holds almost 3.5qt, I dropped pan and changed CVT fluid, changed cooler filter from torque converter, totally around 4 qt changed, maybe spilled one oz or two in garage and leaked one oz in parking lot. I just ordered a dipstick from China but no I have to level car perfectly to make sure drain plug is not draining too fast like a string but near the edge, it should not drain anything either then it’s under filled.

 

[Cutedancingpanda]

I wish there was a better way to measure the amount of trans fluid. I saw a video online that said the reason modern transmissions don't have dipsticks is because they don't want DIY guys putting in the wrong fluid and decreasing the life of the transmission. I'm kinda regretting using the Castrol Syntec CVT fluid instead of Nissan brand. Lots of mechanics say the transmission is designed for ONE kind of fluid. But now that I've got Castrol in there.... I don't know what to use next time I mess with the trans fluid.
Do y'all know if these CVT transmissions are the same as other Automatic transmissions where HALF the fluid is stuck in the transmission? Even after draining?

I researched all CVT specific brands, Idemitsu type N3 (Amazon says synthetic based but official Idemitsu website doesn’t) from Napa seems the closest formula from original Nissan NS3, 2012 uses type N or NS2, thick viscosity, it’s bad to start up cold or slow to warm up in cold zone, especially in the snow. If I live in California or southern then I would use Amosoil, they tested vigorously on Nissan CVT with NS2 but no comparison of newer NS3 thinner formula.

 

[Cutedancingpanda]

I'm not sure I understand your question but hope this helps.

The only way to replace all the fluid would be to have a transmission flush done. It won't all drain by removing the plug and stand pipe. When you replace the plug with the stand pipe and refill the transmission the correct level for the fluid is the top of the stand pipe at whatever temperature Nissan recommends.

You should have approximately the correct amount of fluid in the transmission with the procedure you used it's just that the new fluid mixes with the old fluid that was still trapped in the torque converter. If you wanted a higher percentage of new fluid you'd have to do multiple fluid drain/fills after driving a while and mixing the old and new fluid.

I plan to do a single drain/fill/filter replacement again at 60K just as I did at 30K on my Versa then between 90 and 100K I'll probably do 3 drain/fills and change the filters on the last of the series. This should replenish a large amount of the fluid to close to like new condition.

I measured 4 qt after dropping the transmission pan and internal metal filter, also changed cooler paper cartridge filter, maybe I should haven’t removed drain plug of torque converter to see if it will drain the rest of 3.5 qt. On my receipt of dealer flush, it says 5 qt at 43K miles, now it’s at 80K, the fluid is less darker but almost black too.

 

[Cutedancingpanda]

It’s due to every

So I just recently purchased a used 2014 Nissan Versa SV to save on gas. 106,000 miles on the engine. I have no knowledge of when or if the transmission fluid has been changed. I was considering having it changed, but a local mechanic shop advised against it. Any opinions?

It’s due every 30K for all Nissan CVT, especially Jatco CVT7, you should monitor with an OBD tool or CVTz50, I have been using demo, the temperature is only close to 2 Celsius degrees difference for both temperatures of engine and transmission comparing to my $350 fancy OBD scanner. I would change if deterioration (date) value over 210000 on the $5 CVTz50 or CVT takes longer than ten minutes to warm up to 105F/40C degrees. Definitely change it if your CVT temperature reaches over 90C/194F.