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I have versa 2012, bought brand new and so far changed one front wheel bearing at 44k and now the others are going at 86k km. Nissan dealers don't want to know but will charge to change it at extortionate cost and would not recognise warrant if I do it outside.
Any one with that experience and do u know Nissan(Japan) HQ customer service email address.
 

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Which front wheel bearing went first, driver's or pass's side?

The others are going - all 3? Or which one(s)?

Don't have an email address - wish I did. Just have the 1800-NISSAN1 #.

If you get an e-mail address, let us know.

Oh, and have your paper-thin exhaust heat shields broken free at the bolt mounts under the car (under the seat areas)? 3 shields there that do.

Are either of your rear struts leaking?
 

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I had my front drivers-side wheel hub assembly replaced at around 75k in my 2011 hatch. If you can't get things fixed under warranty, RockAuto has some pretty decent prices with free and quick shipping. I think I paid right around $100 for the whole job, $50 for the replacement part and another $50 to have a local mechanic install it.
 

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Actually, they are separate/individual parts (and separately/individually removed and installed), but it is useful knowing both were replaced. Thanks.
 

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Nah, commonly they are bought as a pair of parts already pressed together. I used to sell them OTC. Or, you can get parts separately.

It's good to know that when it comes to wheel bearings you get ones that generally last much longer by staying away from the hub/bearing or drum/bearing combos, those commonly use much cheaper bearings to hold cost down but the bearings can be junk. I look at the bearing as needing to pretty much cost around $50 by itself if you want it to last. And name brand is a must too, Timken, SKF, Bowers BCA, and the like, NEVER buy a branded chain store part there, they often are crap. I bought one and instant noise turning into grinding first day, the bearing upon teardown had ZERO grease in it. I saw it happen to others too. The cheaper Chinese bearings are garbage. You are dollars ahead by developing the practice of opening the bearing box to look at the part, you will find more often than not that what is inside has nothing to do with what the outer box has printed on it. The last Centric bearings I bought at Rock Auto turned out to be top line SKF in box and a happy find. $50 bearing for $30, can't beat that. You really cannot grasp how much reboxing goes on there unless you do it like I did every time I turned around.

I work on all my own cars and never pay for it and every wheel bearing I ever installed other than that one parts store branded one (Master Pro) is still running today, some are over 20 years old. Done right you should not have to change that one again.

The end torque on the axle nut MUST hit spec or you can kiss the bearing goodbye, the bearing relies on that torque for dimensional stability and it tears up in short order not having it. The most common way to frag them early next to bad choice in quality.
 

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how do you know that you need to replace the bearing?

My dealer suggested me to consider replacement soon (at almost 400$!!) because they hear a humming noise but I don't really hear anything yet (and I have a nice ear)....


If I do it I'll find some place else..hehehe
 

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Which front wheel bearing went first, driver's or pass's side?

The others are going - all 3? Or which one(s)?

Don't have an email address - wish I did. Just have the 1800-NISSAN1 #.

If you get an e-mail address, let us know.

Oh, and have your paper-thin exhaust heat shields broken free at the bolt mounts under the car (under the seat areas)? 3 shields there that do.

Are either of your rear struts leaking?

the only one I have is this:

[email protected]
 
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