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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys , im looking for help , my wife own a 2012 nissan versa , the problem is the rotor dont stop warping , its going to be the 4th time we change them , the problem is solve when they are new but after 2 month its pretty bad, the steering shakes a lot on higher speed braking... i know my wife she is gentle on the brake... we still changing them because they are garanteed but i want to find the real problem ? Any ideas ?
 

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Don't use the super cheap Autozone rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My mechanics say he put the best quality , should i buy oem rotor from nissan ?
 

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My experience as somebody who cut hundreds of rotors was that the person driving the car may think they are not hard on parts when they really are.

Past that I'd ask who is defining that the brakes are warped?, they generally don't at all, no matter what the driver says. I proved it to countless people on the rotor cutting machine. Most of the time it's pad material gouging onto rotor to make you think the rotor is warped when it is really just hitting two different hardness sections of the disc, one slips more than the other. Meaning pad material type used there is wrong.

Loose tie rod ends can shake exactly like that if one does not understand how FWD works. Not brake at all. Or loose control arm bushing.

90% of all brake disc 'warping' is fake news, it doesn't exist in most cases. The common fallback of mechanics who have not a clue.
 

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What Amc said Or: could be your wife rides the brakes (basically drives with one foot on the brake all the time). This heats up the brakes and makes the rotor warp
 

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could be your wife rides the brakes (basically drives with one foot on the brake all the time). This heats up the brakes and makes the rotor warp
OP, check with her, does she use only right foot alternating between gas and break pedals, or uses her left foot for the brake pedal. The late could lead to riding the brakes and overheating.
 

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Don't laugh, it's proven that people like me that use BOTH feet can be faster in accident reaction time. You just train yourself to not touch the brake pedal. Been doing it for 50+ years. There are conditions like fast roll traffic jams that using both will get you through them faster as you can preload the gas to get up on the converter and get a shot out of a pocket much faster.

Yet my brakes last longer than most here onsite.
 

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Yet my brakes last longer than most here onsite.
The brakes on my '02 Escort are the same ones that were on it when I bought it in 2008. When the weather warms up I'll pull a wheel off and check the pads and pull a drum off the rear and see how they're looking. When I bought the car it had almost 80K miles now it has 197K. I probably haven't changed a set of brakes with less than 100K miles on them in at least 35 years. I learned a long time ago to let off the gas and coast as much as possible when I know I've got a stop coming up. Often coming upon a turn onto another road I can coast down to a safe turning speed and never touch the brakes. I also follow most of the time with a several second buffer between me and the car in front of me. When I see their brake lights come on I let off the gas and they're usually picking up speed again before I ever need to touch my brakes. Of course living in rural KY helps but I used to easily get a 100K miles out of set of brakes when I drove in Charlotte, NC on a daily basis but I also had lots of open road driving. Years ago I often used both feet when driving an automatic but after driving a manual transmission for about 30 consecutive years I've broke that habit when driving an automatic.
 

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I use more brake than that and get maybe 80K out of front pads and 150K out of backs. On almost every car, it stays close to the same. The wife's driving is in there too, we swap cars all the time.
 

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I use more brake than that and get maybe 80K out of front pads and 150K out of backs. On almost every car, it stays close to the same. The wife's driving is in there too, we swap cars all the time.
Probably not necessary but if brakes on one axle needs changing I just go ahead and do both while I'm at it.
 

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I had
Hi guys , im looking for help , my wife own a 2012 nissan versa , the problem is the rotor dont stop warping , its going to be the 4th time we change them , the problem is solve when they are new but after 2 month its pretty bad, the steering shakes a lot on higher speed braking... i know my wife she is gentle on the brake... the mecanics still changing them because they are garanteed but im realy fedup i want to find the real problem ? Any ideas ?
the same issue with 2014. The issue was that the rear brakes were not engaging so it was putting all of the force to the front causing them to warp quickly. Have someone check that. When they had it up on the lift and had the tires going and they hit the brakes , the back wheels would still go... I’m a girl trying to explain this so I hope that makes sense.. but get rid of the car before the CVT TRANSMISSION goes out. 2014. 75000 miles and it’s sitting parked ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had

the same issue with 2014. The issue was that the rear brakes were not engaging so it was putting all of the force to the front causing them to warp quickly. Have someone check that. When they had it up on the lift and had the tires going and they hit the brakes , the back wheels would still go... I’m a girl trying to explain this so I hope that makes sense.. but get rid of the car before the CVT TRANSMISSION goes out. 2014. 75000 miles and it’s sitting parked ?
Thanks for the answer, she have the non cvt auto
 

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Post #15 is either incompetent or lying mechanics. No insult directed at the OP of course. Just a lack of knowledge. ALL cars get approximately 80% of ALL braking power from the fronts and they adjust up closer to also come on faster than the backs do. NORMAL. If front disc is flat and true it will have maybe .015" clearance moving before the brake begins to stop and the backs commonly adjust up no closer than maybe .060: Meaning they come on typically a bit late. It's in the way they are constructed if drums are on the back. If all discs then they contact at about the same time.

When the back brake works the car weight then transfers mostly to front of car due to suspension action and then the fronts can be made to come on much harder than the backs and the way they are constructed there too. The backs come up to a certain pressure and then it is controlled to not come up higher , the fronts are not controlled and can have max pressure. Again, NORMAL. If the backs get full pressure to match the fronts they lock up to skid out of control as there is no weight to plant the tires like the front has at that point.

Why on most cars driven normally the front brakes wear out way before the backs,
 
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