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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone on here ever have to bleed a slave cylinder? I gave the versa to my brother with 205k miles on it. It was running great but at 208k miles the transmission decided to detonate. We got another transmission and threw it in there. Also put in a new clutch kit. Put it all back together and while bleeding the pedal started feeling good and then bam! Something broke and it turns out it was the slave. So we got a new slave, dropped the tranny and did it all again.

Now we are back at the bleeding process and we seem to have it. Pedal actually felt right so we started the vehicle and BAM pedal goes to the floor and stays there. So we shut the car down and start bleeding again and now once we feel we got the air out we push the line from the master into the slave and the pedal is solid as a rock. You can not push it down!

So anyone ever bleed this system or have any ideas as to what the issue is?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Guess not many people on here have had to deal with this.

So far only thing I inspected was the pedal assembly and the line between the slave and the master. Everything looks right. I may remove the line to make sure it's not clogged or an air bubble trapped right there.

Starting to think this is a messed up pressure plate issue. Which will require dropping the trans for a third time.
 

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Guess not many people on here have had to deal with this.

So far only thing I inspected was the pedal assembly and the line between the slave and the master. Everything looks right. I may remove the line to make sure it's not clogged or an air bubble trapped right there.

Starting to think this is a messed up pressure plate issue. Which will require dropping the trans for a third time.
I would open the bleed valve on the slave and see if you have pressure when the clutch pedal if pushed. If you do, I would leave the valve open and try to push the pressure plate rod into the slave cylinder, making sure that it moves freely, and that the piston in the slave moves freely. If it does, then I would close the bleed valve and again push the pedal to see if you have any clutch action. If the slave rod makes contact with the pressure plate and binds, then there is a good chance that there is a problem inside the bell housing. Good luck




 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would open the bleed valve on the slave and see if you have pressure when the clutch pedal if pushed. If you do, I would leave the valve open and try to push the pressure plate rod into the slave cylinder, making sure that it moves freely, and that the piston in the slave moves freely. If it does, then I would close the bleed valve and again push the pedal to see if you have any clutch action. If the slave rod makes contact with the pressure plate and binds, then there is a good chance that there is a problem inside the bell housing. Good luck




Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement "How To" - YouTube
None of those things you suggested actually exists on the Versa. There is no bleed valve on the slave to open, pressure plate rod or slave rod. Trust me, I wish there was because it would make diagnosing much easier.

Well there is a nipple on the slave but it's not a zirk fitting you can open and close. Just an open nipple. You push the hydro line in and out of the tube to open and close it. Now when we pull out the hydro line (5mm) this opens the nipple. At that point you can push the pedal. The pedal goes down to the floor with zero resistance and stays on the floor. Fluid will squirt out the nipple. This is pretty much how you bleed it. But once you push the line in to close off the nipple the pedal is rock hard.

Pretty sure either the fingers of the pressure plate are stuck or the TOB somehow is binding.
 

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None of those things you suggested actually exists on the Versa. There is no bleed valve on the slave to open, pressure plate rod or slave rod. Trust me, I wish there was because it would make diagnosing much easier.

Well there is a nipple on the slave but it's not a zirk fitting you can open and close. Just an open nipple. You push the hydro line in and out of the tube to open and close it. Now when we pull out the hydro line (5mm) this opens the nipple. At that point you can push the pedal. The pedal goes down to the floor with zero resistance and stays on the floor. Fluid will squirt out the nipple. This is pretty much how you bleed it. But once you push the line in to close off the nipple the pedal is rock hard.

Pretty sure either the fingers of the pressure plate are stuck or the TOB somehow is binding.

Give this a looksee............in mentions something about a locking pin under "Air Bleeding Proceedure " at the top right hand side of the page :


Factory Service Manuals - NICO Club
 

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My first clutch job I had to do twice. Some how the alignment thingie didnt do its job and I got a clunking with the engine idling and no working clutch.

Round 2 used a more expensive clutch alignment tool and got it. :smile

I had a hydro clutch on my mercedes 240d. To bleed it you did it bssaackwards. You took a piece of tubing and go from the front brake bleed screw to the bleed screw on the bottom of the slave cylinder.

Yeah, you would think its a drain plug, but it was the bleed screw. Wait, doesnt air float in brake fluid? :surprise Well, yeah, it does.

What you are suppose to do it back flush it from the brakes and open a second screw up top to let the air and on fluid out if you were flushing it.

Im guessing you may have multiple problems. Could be the master cylinder for the slave was fubar when the petal was pushed beyond its normal working range, then the slave/throw out, pressure plate, etc may not be alligned correctly either. :frown
 

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The slave only works in a prescribed distance of length, anything allowing that working length to get out of spec is a mechanical issue that has to be fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Give this a looksee............in mentions something about a locking pin under "Air Bleeding Proceedure " at the top right hand side of the page :


Factory Service Manuals - NICO Club
I am starting to think we are bled correctly. This is more of something stopping the slave from moving the pressure plate fingers.

My first clutch job I had to do twice. Some how the alignment thingie didnt do its job and I got a clunking with the engine idling and no working clutch.

Round 2 used a more expensive clutch alignment tool and got it. :smile

I had a hydro clutch on my mercedes 240d. To bleed it you did it bssaackwards. You took a piece of tubing and go from the front brake bleed screw to the bleed screw on the bottom of the slave cylinder.

Yeah, you would think its a drain plug, but it was the bleed screw. Wait, doesnt air float in brake fluid? :surprise Well, yeah, it does.

What you are suppose to do it back flush it from the brakes and open a second screw up top to let the air and on fluid out if you were flushing it.

Im guessing you may have multiple problems. Could be the master cylinder for the slave was fubar when the petal was pushed beyond its normal working range, then the slave/throw out, pressure plate, etc may not be alligned correctly either. :frown
Pretty sure we are aligned good. We did use a homemade alignment tool but it is how I have always done it. The tranny mated up very easily to the engine so this would lead me to believe it is aligned properly.

We never pressed beyond the normal working range. The floor prevents that from happening and we didn't disconnect the pedal from the master to try and push more fluid.

The slave only works in a prescribed distance of length, anything allowing that working length to get out of spec is a mechanical issue that has to be fixed.
If I am understanding this system correctly when you put the transmission on the finger of the pressure plate compress the TOB/slave cylinder. When you push on the pedal the slave moves the TOB toward then engine, pushing in the fingers, and releasing the disc from the flywheel. It would seem to me that the TOB/slave can not budge the fingers.

We are cracking her back open this weekend to inspect everything. I am hoping the new TOB/slave is not destroyed. We will be comparing the stock pressure plate to the new one. Trying to see if the stock fingers compress and if the new pressure plate does not. Not sure how to do this yet but we will figure it out.


We are backyard mechanics but my brother and I have done tons of work over the years including probably 10 clutch jobs between on us various cars. Most of them being Nissans. Never had any issues with any of them until now. This could be something we did wrong but it does seem unlikely.
 

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You only measure the entire mounted assembly height while bolted onto the flywheel, the pressure plate fingers are not at running height with it free out and off the car. When it bolts down to the flywheel with disc in there the plate compresses to get running clutch engaged load and the fingers slowly lower closer to the engine block as you tighten the plate mounting bolts up. All pressure plates do that.

The slave can only move as far as the master piston travel lets it, normally that shouldn't hurt it unless your clutch stack height is off somehow. Now, if you got airspace as in slave not contacting plate fingers at max master stroke then back off and more foot on master will grab another bite of fluid it shouldn't to blow the slave out.

You need to get a ruler and start doing some careful measuring there, any problem should become very clear. How I used to set up 650 hp. 8500 rpm AMC race engines with twin disc clutches.

Make sure by some accident the clutch disc is not in backwards, easy to do on some of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well grabbed another TOB/slave we had and hooked it up outside of the transmission. The hydraulics are working perfect. We were able to compress the slave and use the pedal to move the TOB. I even clamped the TOB/Slave with a quick clamp and I was able to move the clamp. The pedal felt normal when we did this. It seems to be confirmed is the issue is the fingers on the pressure plate will not budge. This could be disc in backwards which we will check. I joked that we dropped a tool in the bellhousing and it's jamming things up LOL. Either way we have all new parts coming and will do this job one more time. Stay tuned for updates!!
 

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In the middle of doing clutch replacement got to bleeding and the pedal stopped moving became solid. Rebleed same thing, after taking old parts and referencing how I had installed them, found out that the OEM Versa clutch disk flat side goes toward the/transmission! On the old disk it tells you what side goes where, the instruction that came were even wrong. This makes slave not even reach the fingers of pressure plate.
On the 07 Versa there is no bleedscrew where the slave meets the master is a lil spout in the line on top of the connector, it has 2 seated position release the clip pull back replace clip, connect clear hose to spout and bleed as normal.
 
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