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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone,

I had a misfire on cylinder 4. Found out it was the ignition coil and spark plugs going bad. Replaced and everything is fine. But now the A/C suddenly stopped working. Not sure if it was a coincidence while replacing the spark plugs. I've also reset the codes to remove the check engine light. Anyways... here's my diagnostic so far.

1. A/C button light turns on.
2. Compressor clutch does not engage. High pressure to condenser is obviously not hot.
3. While A/C button is on, I'm not getting any ohm readings at the fuse "AIR CON IG2" - interior fuse panel on driver side.
4. I've also checked the fuse AC COMP under the hood and not getting any ohms.

I've tried disconnecting battery for a couple of minutes, no success.
I've tried suggestions on youtube to turn the knobs to get the compressor to kick on after battery has been disconnected, no success.

Is there anything else to check? Is there a AC relay some where?
What is the wiring trace from the A/C button?
Does low freon not engage or send signal to the compressor?

Any information would be helpful. Thank you.
 

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Hello everyone,

I had a misfire on cylinder 4. Found out it was the ignition coil and spark plugs going bad. Replaced and everything is fine. But now the A/C suddenly stopped working. Not sure if it was a coincidence while replacing the spark plugs. I've also reset the codes to remove the check engine light. Anyways... here's my diagnostic so far.

1. A/C button light turns on.
2. Compressor clutch does not engage. High pressure to condenser is obviously not hot.
3. While A/C button is on, I'm not getting any ohm readings at the fuse "AIR CON IG2" - interior fuse panel on driver side.
4. I've also checked the fuse AC COMP under the hood and not getting any ohms.

I've tried disconnecting battery for a couple of minutes, no success.
I've tried suggestions on youtube to turn the knobs to get the compressor to kick on after battery has been disconnected, no success.

Is there anything else to check? Is there a AC relay some where?
What is the wiring trace from the A/C button?
Does low freon not engage or send signal to the compressor?

Any information would be helpful. Thank you.
I would start with the basics. If the AC was working prior to you doing the work you mention, and now it is not, I would suggest that you recheck the areas that you worked on to see if a wire was broken, or an electrical plug became loose. AS far as checking the fuses, I am a simpleton, I like to remove the fuse and check it with an ohm meter to insure that it is in good condition, and there are no hidden defects. I then use "electrical contact cleaner" on both the fuse and the fuse holder. I would then check the ac pressure switch to make sure that the wires are not broken or dislodged. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I would start with the basics. If the AC was working prior to you doing the work you mention, and now it is not, I would suggest that you recheck the areas that you worked on to see if a wire was broken, or an electrical plug became loose. AS far as checking the fuses, I am a simpleton, I like to remove the fuse and check it with an ohm meter to insure that it is in good condition, and there are no hidden defects. I then use "electrical contact cleaner" on both the fuse and the fuse holder. I would then check the ac pressure switch to make sure that the wires are not broken or dislodged. Good luck
Where is the A/C pressure switch located on the 2012 Versa SV? Is that the switch on the receiver drier?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright, I figured it out. And very dumb of me, should of checked this before troubleshooting all the other things. I had 0 PSI reading. Now I know there had to be a leak since it was working just the day before. So I pumped my air compressor into the system, a rock or something made a little dent on the condenser in the front and air is just coming straight out. I'll be placing the condenser, vacuuming, and adding new freon. This should fix it.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok. So replaced condenser. Vacuumed the system. Holding vacuum. No more leaks.

I proceeded to add refrigerant to the system and noticed the compressor will not engage. System is at about 75 PSI low and high, both equal now after adding 11 Oz of refrigerant, without the compressor clutch engaging.

Is there a manual way for me to engage the compressor clutch? There is only 1 wire going to the compressor. Not sure if its possible to jump the 3 pin pressure transducer? I've tried that but seems like only activates the fan.
 

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Ok. So replaced condenser. Vacuumed the system. Holding vacuum. No more leaks.

I proceeded to add refrigerant to the system and noticed the compressor will not engage. System is at about 75 PSI low and high, both equal now after adding 11 Oz of refrigerant, without the compressor clutch engaging.

Is there a manual way for me to engage the compressor clutch? There is only 1 wire going to the compressor. Not sure if its possible to jump the 3 pin pressure transducer? I've tried that but seems like only activates the fan.
Read post number 4. Click on HAC-48 in the post, and it will take you to a PDF file which is the shop manual for the ac system.

https://www.nissanclub.com/forums/2007-2012-nissan-altima-discussion-2-5-3-5/480202-2008-c-clutch-stopped-engaging.html
 

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If the gap at the clutch plate is too large, the solenoid may not have enough force to pull the clutch in.
Check the clutch relay, fuse and clutch solenoid. If they are all good, check the clutch gap.
The easiest way to check these components is to use bi-directional scanner to send a command to energize clutch solenoid. But bi-directional scanner is expensive. It will cut down your troubleshooting time.

Check the high and low side pressure switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Read post number 4. Click on HAC-48 in the post, and it will take you to a PDF file which is the shop manual for the ac system.

https://www.nissanclub.com/forums/2007-2012-nissan-altima-discussion-2-5-3-5/480202-2008-c-clutch-stopped-engaging.html
Thank you very much for this! I followed that exactly.

Found out the connector at the AC compressor clutch was bad, I would wiggle the wire and the clutch would engage. Tried using some electrical cleaner to clean it. Fixed it temporarily, but after driving the wire would move and it would stop engaging. At least I know what the issue is now, so I would just have to get that wiring fixed.

Thanks!

AC issue solved! Case closed.
 

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7 out of 10 of the plastic connector bodies can have the wires carefully removed to rebend them to go back together much tighter like a new one. The problem is finding out how to get the wires to release to come out, the industry uses countless numbers of ways to go about the click-in-place action they use to put them together.

I use like a dental pick to get inside them or to punch down an anti-escapement pin that holds wire in place. You have to look inside the connector with a strong light source to see how they go together.

I myself never buy the whopping overpriced connectors usually for sale ($30 typical), I either take apart and rebend, or that not working out to my liking I rewire using new metal connectors heat shrinked to replace the OEM connector but often at only $1 or less my cost.
 
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