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I actually agree with this. We like unique, obscure cars over a super car, any day...

built. not bought. is my motto. :thumb2:
That's how civics became so popular, ppl wanted to build them and there were no parts for them state side they didn't pick up till mid to late 90s. The civic was never meant to ne a fast car, but iv seen 700hp eg hatchbacks. Anyone that knows of the Honda tuner that goes by the name Pacman knows what I'm talking about.
 

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Don't expect to build much over 200hp off the Mr engine though even with forced induction. Your best bet to build more power is a fwd Sr swap. I would like to see a member do that. Remember parts are not just gonna pop up, if you want to build the v your gonna have to find a performance shop that deals with custom-built cars and custom fabrication.
 

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Don't expect to build much over 200hp off the Mr engine though even with forced induction. Your best bet to build more power is a fwd Sr swap. I would like to see a member do that. Remember parts are not just gonna pop up, if you want to build the v your gonna have to find a performance shop that deals with custom-built cars and custom fabrication.
I think that the best way for a swap is the SR20DET from an infiniti g20T, it FWD 2 liters and Turbo.... i'm thinking about it maybe someday! :p
 

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Yeah i've driven my friends 240 w/ rb20 swap.
Which RB20? Even IF it was an RB20DET R its still only got just over 200 AT THE FLYWHEEL. Add on other engine work and bolt on stuff he may be pushing 300. And thats a big if.

Sounds like jbeau made his point... if you think that is a fast car... then you don't know fast.
 

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That's how civics became so popular, ppl wanted to build them and there were no parts for them state side they didn't pick up till mid to late 90s. The civic was never meant to ne a fast car, but iv seen 700hp eg hatchbacks. Anyone that knows of the Honda tuner that goes by the name Pacman knows what I'm talking about.
So that means every cheap pos can turn into the next tuner craze? BRB I'm gonna go buy stocks in tata...
 
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Which RB20? Even IF it was an RB20DET R its still only got just over 200 AT THE FLYWHEEL. Add on other engine work and bolt on stuff he may be pushing 300. And thats a big if.

Sounds like jbeau made his point... if you think that is a fast car... then you don't know fast.
there you go again being negative,,I dont think anybody cares what jbeau thinks,,,these are our cars,,,thats what we have,,if we want to build them up It would be nice if the people on this forum would be encouraging,,the versa is a great car,,,all i hear from a couple of people on here is negative comments about the V,,I feel it is killing this forum,...
 

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^ is that your ride in the avatar pic?
 

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There's a Juke engine I think in asian models that's a 2.0 L Turbo FWD that should fit in a versa, it's 6spd o0 or was it a 1.6l ..



run my v hard >D redlining everywhere, burnouts from stoplights, e-braking all turns and never leave first-second gear! j.k
 

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The SR20DET was never brought to the US standard in our cars. The G20 has a SR20DE. not T. It makes 140hp and 132tq.
It makes a whopping 145hp and 136tq in 00+ LOL.

The T stood for touring not turbo. It came with LSD tranny, fog lights, wing, floor mats marked touring and sportier head rests.
 

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It makes a whopping 145hp and 136tq in 00+ LOL.

The T stood for touring not turbo. It came with LSD tranny, fog lights, wing, floor mats marked touring and sportier head rests.
Its crazy to think back on all the misconceptions about cars that I have heard over the years. There is so much false information out there, it blows my mind.
 

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The usual stuff, start with the intake, then top end. Manifolds are pretty well optimized, but i have confirmed the MR20DE intake manifold has a larger plenum but is identical in every other dimension, so you could grab an MR20DE manifold for probably pretty cheap if you pick it yourself for a bit better response and top end. There is a small cube screen in the half of the manifold throat just after TB that can be removed, it probably doesn't impart flow through the rev range of these motors but every little gain adds up. That's what the 4 cylinder/small engine game is all about, small gains here and there add up. People don't understand that. The stock exhaust manifold isn't bad, it needs to be opened up at the collector though since the factory method is to crush, shove the pipes together onto a flange and weld them which makes it a tad restrictive there. Now that i have a spare manifold from my MR20 swap i will probably end up getting my local fabricator to cut off the collector and weld on a normal one with an O2 bung and flange sometime... Really this is the smarter thing to do than buying the expensive DC Sport header which is almost identical to the stock one except on the collector, the only weak spot of stock design.
 

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For the original post, 1k to 1.3k money limit, you can feel some significant differences by lightening up the car. Replace the stock battery with a braille battery at 9lbs at $150 on tire rack as long as you don't have an upgraded stereo. Change the stock radio out for a replacement without a cd player on Cruthfield for 50 bucks. Enkei rims at 9.5lbs per rim. Lighter tires are on tirerack but they have less tire width and for the most part have poor ratings as the ride and noise get worse. I wouldn't go any smaller in size unless you want every MPG you can get. Reduced spinning weight makes a huge difference. Replace the factory radio with a lighter one. Take the passenger seat out if you want every MPG. Take the spare tire and jack parts out. If you do these modifications, you will reduce the car weight by approximately 100lbs. Unless you get a true Cold air intake (not sure if there is one out there) and/or an exhaust upgrade you won't be able to add any more power. The weight reduction and additional bump in power will definitely be noticeable. I've put over 15K in modifying a 3sgte turbo engine in an MR2 and I can tell you that the simple modifications are the best. No serious power jumps will be made without boost. Period. But at 1.3K ish, you will have a different handling car if you get those Enkei rims, remove your jack and spare tire, install the Braille battery, install the Dual radio from Crutchfield, and remove the passenger seat. Any additional expenses over your 1.3K limit would be best served getting a custom exhaust and/or a custom cold air intake. Hope this helps. You can check out my weight savings by the numbers thread under General Technical and Electrical.
 
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