I had to replace a hub assembly on my Chevy Blazer. If I remember correctly it cost me around $250 for the parts and labor.
Wheel bearing dying
I suspected my psgr front wheel bearing was going due to the noise up there. He confirmed it and I'm getting a new bearing put in Monday. It is a whole hub assembly with enclosed bearing, so it's more money for the part but less labour. He said if it's a separate bearing, the part would be cheaper but more labour to replace it. Either way it will be a few hundred bucks.
This is the first wheel bearing to go, at 157800km
This is the first wheel bearing to go, at 157800km
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Or u could look at my how to on replacing these and do it ur self for 150 bucks
^good idea! i'll check at work later 08v
I had a wheel bearing going bad on a 1997 Subaru Legacy L
it was making an awful noise and it got worst the faster I was going.
A friend helped me replace it and I had to take the wheel bearing compressed to the hub at a machine shop
it was making an awful noise and it got worst the faster I was going.
A friend helped me replace it and I had to take the wheel bearing compressed to the hub at a machine shop
I have to get mine replaced also but I'll be doing the work myself. I called Napa and they wanted $185 and nissan wanted $265. So I looked online and found a Canadian auto parts site that seems pretty legit. I'll likely be ordering the part from there and replace it in warmer weather.
https://www.autopartsway.ca/PartDet...llB/Brake/Drums_and_Rotors/Axle_Hub_Assembly/
https://www.autopartsway.ca/PartDet...llB/Brake/Drums_and_Rotors/Axle_Hub_Assembly/
Rock Auto has the TIMKEN Part # HA590285 for 56 bucks. That is the front. Install is somewhat straightforward and not that difficult. Maybe a 30 min job with a break.
I have to get mine replaced also but I'll be doing the work myself. I called Napa and they wanted $185 and nissan wanted $265. So I looked online and found a Canadian auto parts site that seems pretty legit. I'll likely be ordering the part from there and replace it in warmer weather.
https://www.autopartsway.ca/PartDet...llB/Brake/Drums_and_Rotors/Axle_Hub_Assembly/what are wheel bearings?
Just last week, i was into the conclusion that my bearings are dying however the problem was that the dealer says warranty repairs and/or replacements are not an option since nothing has failed. I told them about the possibility of damage to the wheel and swingarm but now I guess it's time to ride the piss out of the thing until the bearings fail.
its pretty easy replacing the hub and bearing assembly. its only 4 17mm bolts holding it. just gotta take the steering knuckle out for the job. should only take about 1hr to do.
I just bought two Timken bearings assemblies for my 2010 versa hatchback.(125,000 kms) To my door in Canada, $191.00 from Rock Auto.
To change them out, I did not remove anything but the Tire, brake caliper assembly and then the wheel bearing assembly. I didn't touch the steering knuckle at all. Other posts have said to do this, however, I did not find it was necessary at all.
I used a puller that my father fabricated. It was like a brake rotor as it bolted on to the lug bolts. It had a long rod coming straight out perpendicular to the wheel. He put a heavy metal weight on the rod so it would slide back and forth and two heavy nuts on the end farthest from the wheel to keep it from sliding off the end. The rod was about a foot and a half long.
We simply bolted this on like a wheel onto the lug bolts with the lug nuts and then used the sliding weight like a slide hammer to gently bump the old unbolted wheel assembly out of the fitting.
A couple of quick bumps and out it came... then reassembled the parts. I used a Johnson bar and a couple of ratchets for the 5 bolts needed to be removed and replaced. I used a Johnson bar on the large bolt on the end of the axle and replaced the cotter pin with a new one on each side when done.
Each side took about 45 minutes not counting the time taken to fabricate the slide puller.
My father is 87 and still saving me headaches with his mechanical genius.
The Versa.... sounds like an electric car now.... smooth and quite, tight and sure.
To change them out, I did not remove anything but the Tire, brake caliper assembly and then the wheel bearing assembly. I didn't touch the steering knuckle at all. Other posts have said to do this, however, I did not find it was necessary at all.
I used a puller that my father fabricated. It was like a brake rotor as it bolted on to the lug bolts. It had a long rod coming straight out perpendicular to the wheel. He put a heavy metal weight on the rod so it would slide back and forth and two heavy nuts on the end farthest from the wheel to keep it from sliding off the end. The rod was about a foot and a half long.
We simply bolted this on like a wheel onto the lug bolts with the lug nuts and then used the sliding weight like a slide hammer to gently bump the old unbolted wheel assembly out of the fitting.
A couple of quick bumps and out it came... then reassembled the parts. I used a Johnson bar and a couple of ratchets for the 5 bolts needed to be removed and replaced. I used a Johnson bar on the large bolt on the end of the axle and replaced the cotter pin with a new one on each side when done.
Each side took about 45 minutes not counting the time taken to fabricate the slide puller.
My father is 87 and still saving me headaches with his mechanical genius.
The Versa.... sounds like an electric car now.... smooth and quite, tight and sure.
Sealed hubs are great for the shop and the customer, more control over how it will go. No guessing if you are going to damage the hub or have problems getting the races out. 3 bolts, air hammer or regular hammer it off, reassemble and it's out the door, wham bam thank you ma'am...
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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