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Over the past year, Ive had to replace 3 headlight bulbs, I'm trying to figure out what is wrong. Does anyone have any ideas? And for some reason, it's only my low beams that stop working, high beams work fine.
 

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Are you installing them while wearing gloves or using a paper towel?

Oil from your hands that get onto the bulb will create a hotspot and cause the light to burn out prematurely.
 

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I have had the same issue. I have had to change headlights two to three times a year. It seems strange to have to do that. I wear gloves when I touch the headlights. I have taken the car to the shop but they find nothing wrong.
 

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Is the bulb clear or mirrored? Do they go out while in use or it just doesnt light up the next time you turn them on? Are you buying name brand bulbs from an auto store or a generic one from walmart? Do you replace both at the same time or just the one that doesnt work? Do you drive with them on or only use at night several hours a day or week?
 

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Is the bulb clear or mirrored? Do they go out while in use or it just doesnt light up the next time you turn them on? Are you buying name brand bulbs from an auto store or a generic one from walmart? Do you replace both at the same time or just the one that doesnt work? Do you drive with them on or only use at night several hours a day or week?
Good questions. I had this problem with my truck. One headlight burnt out after 6 years so I replaced both with those high intensity bulbs. I cant remember if they were silverstar or what but they were name brand and expensive. Next thing I know, I'm burning out bulbs every couple months! At 30 some-odd bucks a pop that wasn't going to work. So I went back to OE style bulbs. Well the same thing continued to happen the bulbs were burning out all the time. After a bunch of testing and research I finally found out the actual OE bulbs in my truck were 9006LL. The LL stands for long life. The bulbs you get at most parts stores are just standard 9006 bulbs. I ended up orderng the right LL bulbs and haven't had a problem since.
 

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I used to sell specialty 'brighter' bulbs like that and no way do they last as long as the OEM specced bulb commonly. They give you more light output by making the filament thinner to glow brighter, it's only common sense.

As well, any looseness at the 'at bulb connector' or the outside weatherproof further out harness connector can do that, the outside one if present gets corrosion and both being even the slightest loose then allow sporadic current surges that then kill the bulbs even if they are little enough you can't see any difference in the output of light. I've seen alternator problems with bad power connections do it too, but that commonly involves the whole car blowing them.

If the bulbs ground right close to headlight then the ground point being less than stellar does the same.

If halogen the bulb glass must be kept clean like said, even human finger oil can fail the bulb but that is a glass issue not the internal filament.

I commonly have the wifie hold onto 'pre-approved' but not valid credit cards I will never use to make connector cleaning tools of various widths, you cut them back to expose say 1/16" wide blade maybe 1/2" long and then cut like 600 sandpaper the same but more than double length so you can wrap it around the card tab and hold it in place with fingers, then you have a female connector cleaning tool that easily inserts in the females of the pins to sand the contact points down to clean them. More u-fold cut sandpaper and folded double along with very small hobby needlenose pliers like found at Harbor Freight to clean the male flat pins. Then use ANY grease (I use wheel bearing and general use type) as long as it is not metal based to short out to coat the pin connections for more weatherproofing. It doesn't have to be the expensive dielectric stuff at all, which I usually consider a scam except only in a very few locations.

Done correctly the newly cleaned pin connectors will last for years.

If any headlight assembly mounting is loose to shake then of course the bulb will not last there. Proper damping is bulb life.
 

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Clean your grounds. If you have a multi meter check your ground wire's resistance to the - terminal, should be near 0
 

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Step 2, this is how you can tell if you have bad grounds in the car by doing this to other parts under the hood. I hada . scion xa that was all over the place. I ended up getting a roll of 12 gauge wire and some terminals and made little jumper cables and daisy chained from the left to right shock tower, fender, engine, tranny to negative battery cable.

My owners manual said not to ground to the battery directly. In that case the engine should be good enough.
 
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