It sounds like you have ruled everything out but the PCM/ECM or the wiring from the PCM/ECM to the relay to tell the fan to come on.
First thing I would do is check the continuity for the signal wire (telling the fan to come on - from the ECM/PCM)
Depending on how much more money you want to spend on the car, you could have the PCM/ECM tested and repaired (if necessary). There are companies on ebay that will test and repair the PCM/ECM for about $100.

 

Thanks for the reply, I was hoping it wasn't that.

"First thing I would do is check the continuity for the signal wire (telling the fan to come on - from the ECM/PCM" I would, though I'm not the best at checking this stuff, kinda just fumbling around with a multimeter. I also don't have alligator clips or anything to test the signal wire. I was taking the two prongs and putting a positive on the 2nd hole(though it's really hard and I feel like I'm damaging the plastic.) Can't see any opening on the back of the connector to do as they say back probing. Took the black probe and grounded it. I've read it should be getting 5v, but I'm getting 3.4v I believe, can't be sure and might be doing it wrong.

Though, I did unplug the connector/signal wire from the ECTS and started the car and boom, fan works, but stays on no matter what. Saw that in another thread that this can happen. The ECTS was replaced, so what exactly does this mean?

 

Unfortunately, just a light. I haven't seen it go off as I won't let it lol.

 

I was going to suggest putting the fan on a switch (with an in-line fuse) and you manually turning the fan on and off if the coolant temperature started to rise.
But with just a light, you won't be able to monitor the engine temperature without installing an after market temperature gauge.
I also understand its hard to throw good money at a car with 200K miles on it.

 

Yeah, trying to spend minimally and have to get it fully working for the wife as I'll be moving to another state for new job. If I can get this working, that would be fantastic.

 

Let's go over everything one last time... You know the fan works, the relay works and the ECTS works. So the ECM/PCM receives data from the ECTS, then sends power to the relay to turn on the fan.
Tell me more about the active test you performed, does this test command the PCM/ECM to turn on the fan??

 

So this auto active test tests the IPDM relays and control board from what I can tell and bypasses the PCM/ECM. The test will perform a low to high speed test, which works fine from what I can tell without a speciality tool.

 

OP, how do you know your radiator fan does not work? Maybe the thermostat is opened and the engine does not reach the temp for the fan to kick in. Your AC does not work so you cannot check the fan operation by turning on the AC. Your fan passed the auto activity test. Maybe you are looking for a black cat in the dark room, and the cat is not even there.
You need to know the actual engine operating temperature. So as Desert Rodent mentioned, try to get an external temp gauge. For example, a scan gauge plugged into OBD2.

 

Gotcha, I'll see if I can get one of those or see if one of the auto stores have that scanner that I can borrow.

 

Yes, you need to know what the PCM is registering for a coolant temp and what temp it commands the fan to be on/off.

 

Alrighty, update time. So I went to one of the Auto stores and had to buy an odb2 scanner with live data feed for coolant temps. Found out that my car just isnt getting hot enough to have the fan kick on. I was able to get it over 208°F and the fan kicked on like it was supposed to. Though I had to really push the engine just to get that hot. So I guess at this point, either the car is fine or I maybe have a thermostat issue? I'm going to try the method of putting my hand on the outlet hose and see if it's just constantly warm or if it's changing temperature when the thermostat opens and shuts. Any thoughts? Really don't want to rip it all out and have to refill the coolant if I don't have to and find that the thermostat is actually good.

 

I would just confirm that the thermostat works, meaning it is initially closed, and then opens after reaching some temp.

I never worked on Versa cooling system, but based on my previous cars:

* Begin when the car is off and the engine is cold. Remove a radiator cap.

* Remove and save some antifreeze from the radiator neck, so that you see the surface of the fluid at the top of the radiator, and there is a room for fluid expansion.

* Turn the engine on. The visible surface of the antifreeze could shake, but not move. If it starts to flow in some direction, it means the thermostat is already opened. Not good.

* As engine gets warmer, the fluid starts expand and raise. At some point the thermostat opens, and the fluid begins to flow fast in some direction. It should be visible. If needed to better see it, remove some fluid that raised too high in the neck. Be carefull, it is hot.
If it all happens, this is the indication that your thermostat works. With the the externatl temp gauge you can check the temp that causes the thermostat to open.

* As temp raises more, at some point the fan kicks it. But you already confirmed it.

If everything works as described, call it a day, turn off the engine, put back the radiator cap, and pour the saved antifreeze into expantion tank, and be done. For a few days watch the level in the expantion tank, and add antifreeze as needed.

Finally, make preparations for celebration feast!

 

Thanks for all the advice! So, to conclude no thermostat issue, just the car is doing a damn great job at cooling and not getting hot enough. Lol I actually did take out the inlet thermostat, did a test on it and valve opened at the temps specified. So back it goes and everything is working great.

Found though that auto stores provide misleading parts for cars. For example, they show 2 thermostats, one at high temp with no jiggler supposedly at the water outlet and one with a lower temp with a jiggler at the water inlet. Only one pertains to my Versa as there is only one thermostat which is located at the inlet. This is for people who have the same model as mine as there is so many videos/diagrams of 2012's that don't pertain to my Versa.

 

What I would do is install a "coolant temperature sensor" in the engine and wire in a stand alone 30/40 amp relay directly to the fan. It would be a stand alone system not dependent on the PCM etc...I use them on my hot rods.

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